Some opinions on VBP upper control arms

Not without a bunch of shims or slotting the cross-shaft.

The popular idea is that you can slot the cross-shaft 1/4 inch and get the additional 2.5 degrees. This is wrong. The cross shaft is about 10 inches from the lower arm pivot, an additional 2.5 degrees is almost double that. If you were to slot the arm 1/2 inch, you would seriously weaken the cross-shaft. There isn't much metal there:twitch:

Actually, Gulstrand has a templete for moving the upper control arm crossshaft bolts forward and down. Better than slotting the crossshaft.;)


I think you want to move them down and to the back. Not sure how easy this is to do with the engine in place however. Might be easier to make cross shafts like Bird suggested.

Maybe, down and back. I looked at this templete many many years ago.:confused:
 
Ok now this is getting stupid. If it is a good weld the metal will break long before the weld will. It is a simple fact that welds are stranger then the steel they are connecting. As far as is breaking right next to the weld is concerned. If it is a good weld and there is no undercutting of the metal and it is designed properly that is not an issue either. Now if you want to say that factory a arms are better than tubular because they can't collect moister and rust from the inside out no one can argue that, but that has nothing to do with the welds. I think maybe you should go back and do some more research before making like that on something you obviously know nothing about and then try to argue it. Now wether VBP control arms are any good or not I don't know because I have never had a set, but they are not bad just because they are welded together.
 
I have a set of VBP arms and, just to set the record straight, there are no open tubes. The two tubes used in these arms are joined and capped. No entry point for water or moisture.
 
I have a set of VBP arms and, just to set the record straight, there are no open tubes. The two tubes used in these arms are joined and capped. No entry point for water or moisture.

If they are the same pieces that come with the front transverse spring kit, they are pretty heavy duty. I put a set on Scott's, and was impressed.
(Heavy)
 
I have a set of VBP arms and, just to set the record straight, there are no open tubes. The two tubes used in these arms are joined and capped. No entry point for water or moisture.

They only way mosture won't get in is if they're air tight. You think the welds are that good?
 
Are they Mig or Tig welded? If Tig they very easly could be water tight. You don't have to have open welds for them to leak water or air. A pinhole in the weld is enough. Air tight or not you will still get mosture in them from tempeture change.
 
Are they Mig or Tig welded? If Tig they very easly could be water tight. You don't have to have open welds for them to leak water or air. A pinhole in the weld is enough. Air tight or not you will still get mosture in them from tempeture change.


Thank YOU!

And corrosion or not, i saw one let go and send a guys mustang into a immovable concrete wall at New Hampshire Intl. Speedway. Totalled.

And experiencing the failure of a VBP strut pretty much does it for me.
 
"Good" ball joints and tie rod ends can break also and the will result in the same thing. Many many people are running tubular A-arm on the street and the track without a problem. To see one break and say all are bad would be like saying one plane crashed so I won't fly. Do you know what condition the a-arm you seen break was in, who made it, and what kind of a life it has had. Without the information you really shouldn't make a judgment. As far as the strut rod you are referring to. That was rusty enough on the out side that you would be an idiot to think it wouldn't be that way on the inside. Believe it or not parts are not designed to last forever. The characteristics of the part and how you treat the part will determine how long it will last.
 
Has anyone ever seen a stock type control arm completely tear through? I doubt it.

This is why its important to have engineers design things and not "good ole boys"

The stock strut rods are cast in one piece and yes, will last forever.

Never trust your life to a weld.
 
Never trust your life to a weld.

Now who is being silly.:huh:

I don't know. Ask TimAT about the criticality of welds and weld inspection.

Jim. I have done jobs where we sonic/x-ray. I also know this stuff is engineered with a 200% factor for a 9.0 earthquake.
If those designs are properly designed for a stress test of 200% of stress they would evr encounter, I would not be worried.
THAT is the problem. As you have stated, it's the DESIGN factor.
 
Has anyone ever seen a stock type control arm completely tear through? I doubt it.

This is why its important to have engineers design things and not "good ole boys"

The stock strut rods are cast in one piece and yes, will last forever.

Never trust your life to a weld.



Why do you think they are cast in 1 piece.

1st a casting would be very, very weak in that application, I think you may have meant forged.

Nonetheless, everyone oem I have ever seen has been welded.
 
Top