battery seems fully charged but car wont do a thing. 1990

JeffP1167

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Yucaipa, CA.
just has no power anywhere not even dome lights. where are the fusible links on this nightmare?
 
Items that don't run through the fuses have fusible links on the wires close to the terminal block mounted on the firewall behind the battery.
As you have zilch I suspect a bad connection somewhere on the main batt feeds as the fusible links are only on the heavy draw items like fans so you would still have power to dash / int lights through the fuse box.
I would be checking battery terminal connections and ground cable to bellhousing 1st assuming your battery is as good as you say
 
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Well according to my battery charger it says fully charger when I hooked it up. and the car started yesterday without a problem but today nothing. dash wouldn't even do a thing
 
Make sure to check for corroded terminals. I chased that 'problem' once before.
 
Sorry guys, something did drain the battery. It's funny though the car has sat for many weeks and still has started so not sure what happened.
 
Sorry guys, something did drain the battery. It's funny though the car has sat for many weeks and still has started so not sure what happened.

Believe it or not, it IS possible to show good voltage at the bat terminals on a side poster, and have the cable be still shitty connection....don't ask....after attempting to start, I always feel if the terminals are warm/hot, dead giveaway....

:crutches:
 
I kinda think if it's anything drawing it is sticking seat switches. One reason why I plan on replacing the seats with different seats.
 
no headlights in it. this is just something that happened overnight. Prior to that the car was fine. Thats why I am wondering if it was the seats draining the battery because I was doing the heater core and could have touch one of the buttons maybe.

The seats will be expensive to fix so cheaper just to put regular seats in it to get this car done quiker.
 
no headlights in it. this is just something that happened overnight. Prior to that the car was fine. Thats why I am wondering if it was the seats draining the battery because I was doing the heater core and could have touch one of the buttons maybe.

The seats will be expensive to fix so cheaper just to put regular seats in it to get this car done quiker.


Just pull the plugs on the seats if you do not want to replace them.
 
They have a mercury switch, unhook them just to be safe, there's a connector on both sides near the headlight/sidemarker.
 
They have a mercury switch, unhook them just to be safe, there's a connector on both sides near the headlight/sidemarker.

thats unplugged on the car. When I bought this 90 back in March of "08" the kid said the car had a battery drain. Took the car home and could even jump start it even after being on the charger for 2 hours. So I figured dead cell in the battery so bought a new one. Installed the new battery and and let the car sit at times for 3 weeks and it always started right up, so figured the kid was a idiot dealing with a dead cell battery that couldn't hold a charge. But it seems the car is doing what he described now.

I'm going to unplug the seats and see if they could have been the culprit since some of the buttons in them are cracked and stick.
 
Jeff, I hope you have a DVM, and some knowledge of how to use it....

IF so, you can remove one terminal from the battery, and put the amp meter in series with the cable and the battery post/connector....

read what the current is, then start pulling fuses untill it goes to zero...

modern cars are allowed only like .020 amps drain...anything over .030 amps is a serious drain.....in electronics it's called 20 mills...meaning milliamps...

if you don't have a DVM , you can go Radio Shack for a cheep meter and a book or maybe some elementary instructions with it....

or get a better one from a electronic/electrical parts house...made by FLUKE, typically....maybe Lowes Depot....


:shocking:
 
Jeff, I hope you have a DVM, and some knowledge of how to use it....

IF so, you can remove one terminal from the battery, and put the amp meter in series with the cable and the battery post/connector....

read what the current is, then start pulling fuses untill it goes to zero...

modern cars are allowed only like .020 amps drain...anything over .030 amps is a serious drain.....in electronics it's called 20 mills...meaning milliamps...

if you don't have a DVM , you can go Radio Shack for a cheep meter and a book or maybe some elementary instructions with it....

or get a better one from a electronic/electrical parts house...made by FLUKE, typically....maybe Lowes Depot....


:shocking:

I tried that when I bought the car and it showed no significant drain. and the battery never went dead hooked up and occasinally running for like 10 months. Now I tested it again and no drain like before.

Thats why I think its the seats causing this

One odd thing I noticed the day it happened was only one fan ran on my car when they are setup to both run at the same time. so replaced relay and it still didn't work. then while the other fan was running I nudged the fan blade with a broom handle and the fan started working. I'm wondering if the motor could be internally shorting and causing the drain as well.
 
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did you check the vanity mirror lights?? Maybe the dimmer switch is full right causing the courtesy lights to stay on, mis adjusted door switch.....
 
did you check the vanity mirror lights?? Maybe the dimmer switch is full right causing the courtesy lights to stay on, mis adjusted door switch.....

Nope not visors since non are in it and the interior lights still work with that delay thingy fine.
 
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