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  #11  
Old 03-25-2008, 12:22 AM
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84rzv500r 84rzv500r is offline
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If he can hold on till this semester's over he has a very nice Grant quick Unit heading his way. I'm gonna start on my dash and new steering column (A SWEET telescoping one)

The Ladder style bars are good for safety but triangulated is stronger...

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  #12  
Old 03-25-2008, 02:16 AM
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I want to have the doors easily removable also

I'm picking up another pair of doors this weekend to modify

I'm not really worried about me getting in though, more so my dad. He can get in and of the nascar pretty good though.


84rzv500r I'll have to take you up on that offer if I keep the stock column

The column and the mounts have to weight a ton though.

Last edited by Yellow73SB; 03-25-2008 at 02:21 AM..
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  #13  
Old 03-25-2008, 10:24 PM
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The column isn't that heavy. The mounts are, and the early cast iron upper mount weight a ton. The later stamped steel ones are a little lighter but still very heavy
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  #14  
Old 03-25-2008, 10:38 PM
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How would guess that the mounts weight? Do you think It would be easy to make some custom mounts?
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  #15  
Old 03-25-2008, 10:46 PM
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They are not a very difficult design, you could probably fab something out of steel and drill holes in it to lighten it.
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  #16  
Old 03-29-2008, 02:30 PM
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SO to recap are these cages all fabricated or "kit" cages that come from a vendor. Am looking for a fully legal and strong cage setup for my C-3 and need to buy the "best" fit for a vintage racer...

What vendors are best, and use American Steel...??

Here is my timeframe...bodywork, rear flares installation currently ongoing, and expected compoletion in a couple weeks. Want to get the body, doors back to primer and ready for paint in a month. Removing the body, the frame will be measured and then welded up, gusseted and painted, then ready for the body / cage intallation.

Any advice anyone has would be awesome, Redvetracer please chime in if you have any tips for me!

Joe 949-280-9799

Last edited by international blue; 03-29-2008 at 02:37 PM..
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  #17  
Old 03-29-2008, 03:01 PM
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These guys do great work, they do most of the project cars for grassroots motorsports. I've had them do two cages for me, very high quality, however most of the time they are 6 weeks or more out..

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  #18  
Old 03-29-2008, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by international blue View Post
SO to recap are these cages all fabricated or "kit" cages that come from a vendor. Am looking for a fully legal and strong cage setup for my C-3 and need to buy the "best" fit for a vintage racer...

What vendors are best, and use American Steel...??

Here is my timeframe...bodywork, rear flares installation currently ongoing, and expected compoletion in a couple weeks. Want to get the body, doors back to primer and ready for paint in a month. Removing the body, the frame will be measured and then welded up, gusseted and painted, then ready for the body / cage intallation.

Any advice anyone has would be awesome, Redvetracer please chime in if you have any tips for me!

Joe 949-280-9799

If your looking for "old school" you might start with an Autopower (San Diego) roll bar then find someone (a sand buggy builder maybe as you live in the desert) to add on to that. For some reason the Owens-Corning team didn`t have full cages until the winter of 1970 when they had Michigan funny car chassis builder Logghe stamping bend them up three identical cages (my car is the only one that retains it`s full original cage)....SCCA rules perhaps?
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  #19  
Old 03-30-2008, 02:34 PM
international blue international blue is offline
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Interesting. I am desirous of the old school look, but integrating that to a strong and somewhat contemporary cage is essential for safety in my mind. Side impact, chassis rigidity and clean design....so many choices! Thanks for your answer!
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