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  #471  
Old 11-26-2018, 02:23 PM
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yep
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  #472  
Old 11-27-2018, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
so to more detail.

............................

another tip - the front control arm hole is 3/4" lower then the rear hole.... this picture is close to where it needs to live
Use the hole where the lines are drawn (rear) - those holes are supposed to be in the same spot on either side.edited That said, trust but verify.
I'm considering angling the lower control arms on my replacement crossmember this winter. I'm curious what angle that 3/4" difference ends up making. Have you measured it, or if you can just give the the center to center measurement of the lower control arm I'll just do the math.

Thanks.
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  #473  
Old 11-28-2018, 05:10 AM
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my thumb is on the front of the a-arm - that's .8 degrees


the upper arm is 12 degrees

Last edited by SuperBuickGuy; 11-28-2018 at 05:13 AM..
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  #474  
Old 11-28-2018, 05:11 AM
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leveled the nose and it is close enough that I'm not going to mess with it - Keep in mind that I'm painting this black (or a dark color) so edges really blend



progress pictures





I need to brace the rear assembly, before the body lift

then I need to lay the coil over over... so that's a notch



how, in all that's holy, does fiberglass look like it rusted?edited


ughedited


​​​​​​​thankfully I have sawzall blades.
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  #475  
Old 11-29-2018, 05:08 AM
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a few minutes and got it on the ground

a bit of frame notching

and voila a roller again





it does need the wider rear tires..
​​​​​​​
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  #476  
Old 11-29-2018, 10:51 AM
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front brakes - I finally decided to go backwards. I cut the ears off the C5 spindles thinking I'd fabricate a bracket that attaches to the hub bolts. I seriously over thought it. The current plan is to cut the height of the ears down, drill new holes, then build a backing plate for the ears (to add strength back). Photos soon, hopefully while we're milling them
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  #477  
Old 11-30-2018, 05:43 AM
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moving along time to make the coil overs permanent


it's getting close to time to get a few more tab plates lasered out


so when I do the finish work, all this will get boxed and finished


for now it's strong enough to drive


all I did on the lower arm was redrill the hole


now to connect the steering wheel to the front


basically, take the u-joint off the top and replace it with the lower one.... and in this case, had I not had the u-joint, I may have done this a bit different....edited


heat removes it


test


the issue


basically heat puts the new one back on....edited


and now it steers.. what's left there is to replace the motor mount and clean up the frame... which I'll do when I pull the body off (likely Sunday)
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  #478  
Old 12-03-2018, 05:02 AM
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hateful task ahead


but I finally afforded myself a power bleeder for when I get brakes


random rear picture


​​​​​​​
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  #479  
Old 12-05-2018, 04:02 AM
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so I have new spindles and plan b is this


I'll mill the tabs into spindle and basically take the same amount off both the spindle and the caliper.edited I figure the reduced metal thickness will be offset by the tabs being against the spindle/hub..edited
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  #480  
Old Today, 06:19 AM
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No, I haven't forgotten this.edited My friend with the mill is on vacation until early next year, so the front brake/spindle mods get to wait, also I have a stack of postponed projects that really need movement (e.g. Colorado air compressor, rack, lights, sliders; Suburban stuff).edited Also, the next step after the brakes is pull the body off.edited That, of course, fills my shop and lift - so the other projects plus my wife's craptastic Jeep JK Rubicon (which is leaking coolant, again) means I need to put this on a 2 month or so hold... leaving the body on the frame makes it far easier to move.

in other news, I've been building a plasma table so I can make nice pieces for the frame work that is soon to come
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