#1 body mount

Stpman

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
376
Location
Niagara Region
trying to replace the #1 body mounts on my 73 and when I went to get to the backing plate for the rivits I found I couldn't get access. Am I missing something? how do I hold that plate in place to get the mount rivited in place?
 
mount rivited in place??? What are you calling #1? They are all bolted, the rear ones however have a captured nut on the inside, often the cage breaks and the nut spins. The outside of the support is rivited to the inside. Is that what you mean????
 
Is it possible you're refering to body mount #4 as shown in the diagram Steve? Is so, is it possible you can rivet it from the bottom or install a small nut and bolt in each hole?

Photos compliments of MyBad79.

2148eb42a612463.jpg
 
two more photos of #1 mount

2148eb42f3370e8.jpg

.

2148eb42f2bd53c.jpg
.

the upper bracket is riveted to the firewall, probably glued as well. do you have to remove it ? what's wrong with it ?
 
two more photos of #1 mount

2148eb42f3370e8.jpg

.

2148eb42f2bd53c.jpg
.

the upper bracket is riveted to the firewall, probably glued as well. do you have to remove it ? what's wrong with it ?

When I got my 73 they were gone, rusted away. I'm trying install new ones
 
wow... rusted and gone ???..... amazing.....


that area should be accessible from inside the car - not ??

I would think the plate (bracket) is glued and riveted. If I had to install a new plate I'd clean the mating surfaces, roughen it with 80 grit and glue the plate in place with some structural adhesive like 3M 8115, 8116 or the 3M adhesive that comes in two tubes (I bought that stuff on Amazon, it's structural adhesive for frames), it's smaller quantity and cheaper than buying a cartridge 8115, think I paid $20 for the glue.
Once the glue is cured I'd use bolts, washers and locknuts instead of rivets - not NCRS correct but that wouldn't be a concern for me :D
 
wow... rusted and gone ???..... amazing.....


that area should be accessible from inside the car - not ??

I would think the plate (bracket) is glued and riveted. If I had to install a new plate I'd clean the mating surfaces, roughen it with 80 grit and glue the plate in place with some structural adhesive like 3M 8115, 8116 or the 3M adhesive that comes in two tubes (I bought that stuff on Amazon, it's structural adhesive for frames), it's smaller quantity and cheaper than buying a cartridge 8115, think I paid $20 for the glue.
Once the glue is cured I'd use bolts, washers and locknuts instead of rivets - not NCRS correct but that wouldn't be a concern for me :D

I have some Fusor to use and the rivits to put back in I just don't see how to get to the backing plate that is behind the firewall to back up the rivits.
 
must be under the carpet ... I can't imagine why it would be difficult to access it from inside the car ??? Maybe I'm missing something, I have to check on my '79.....
 
Ok I found out how to get to them, on the pass side the kick panel has to come off and in behind is a vac operated door that has to come out to get access to the back plate.
on the drivers side in behind the kick panel is an opening that has a fiberglass block off that is bonded in, out came the heat gun and slowly worked at the bond to pop it off and gain access to the back plate. both plates were in good condition with light surface rust that has been blasted away and is in zinc chromate and when dry a coat of semi gloss black.
 
did you take any photos ? Let's see how painful it is....

good to hear you got it done.....

I got a few shots, the drivers side was not too bad (after I removed the piece bonded in behind the kick panel) the pass side you can only see one of the 5 rivit holes after you remove the vac operated vent door.
 
Top