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  #11  
Old 11-27-2019, 10:39 PM
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Those would work but I am pretty much committed to the projectors.

It looks like I can reduce power to all 4 lights with a 1/2 ohm resistor and still get the equivalent of 52 watt headlights. I will technically not have high beams because of the beam spread for high beams is not the same as low beams. But that's OK, I don't see myself driving at night on unlit roads. And I will still have 260 watts of lights.

Got the DPDT relays today and worked up a schematic. I am going to need this for the headlight harness that I am making.
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Last edited by BBShark; 11-30-2019 at 03:13 PM.. Reason: deleted schematic
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  #12  
Old 11-27-2019, 11:47 PM
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Curious, what's the draw to projection VS LEDs?

I like the LEDs I listed but they are both high and low beams. Is there a watt limit to worry about? It would be easy to hook up all 4 lights to run low beam, all 4 at high beam too. That being said, I dont want to blind people.
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  #13  
Old 11-28-2019, 01:29 PM
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I wanted to use projectors because they are smaller and the doors don't have to open so much. I have already modded the doors and linkage to do this so it's too late to turn back.

Don't know much about LED's but I assume they are more efficient than incandescent lights but more complicated. I see some of them have cooling fans.

Here is a CAD model of my setup:

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Old 11-28-2019, 03:14 PM
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That's really nice looking. What do you think it will cost for the set up? I have seen a couple aftermarket kits but runs over $2500. I have to say though, you're design is awesome!
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Old 11-28-2019, 04:45 PM
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The headlights are not real expensive. They are Hella 90mm modules, I think I paid $60-70 each. There is a link that needs to be made/replaced that lowers the headlight door and you need to modify the door for the deeper headlight modules.

I still have to make the bezels but I will wait till I get them installed.
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  #16  
Old 11-29-2019, 03:16 AM
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I did not realize you were running projectors... if it were my car, I would just forget the highbeam function and just run all 4 at full power. Simple and will give you great output without blinding other drivers.
Or
Look up “demon eyes”. people light up the projector lens with a small led. You could turn that on if you still want to run 2 lights for low and get the look of having all 4 lights on.
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  #17  
Old 11-30-2019, 03:12 PM
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Looks like 4 fixed lights with a dimmer is pretty easy so I'll give that a shot. Also pretty easy to integrate that into the headlight door motors.

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Old 01-06-2020, 01:14 PM
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Default Headlight Warning Switch

I've been making a new headlight wiring harness. After looking at the schematic for a 69 Corvette and see there is wiring for a "headlight warning switch". I am assuming that, on a stock Corvette, you can switch the headlights on without the doors being opened? Thats the only reason I can see to do this and the vacuum/electric switch logic for the headlights is so complicated I can't begin to understand it.

My car will have electric doors. So, I'm thinking, why not have a limit switch on the headlight door so when you switch the lights on, the doors pop up and trip the switch that turns the lights on? Then it would be obvious that your lights are on, no warning switch needed.

Also another unrelated question but part of the wiring I don't really understand. Maybe someone here can answer. The 69 schematic shows Left & Right Hand Courtesy Switch and Key Warning Switch connectors. The switches for the Courtesy Lights is straight forward but the Key Warning wire goes to the Horn & Turn Signal Switch connector. My guess is that this sends 12V to the horn relay and causes it to "buzz"? Is that correct?
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Old 01-07-2020, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBShark View Post
I've been making a new headlight wiring harness. After looking at the schematic for a 69 Corvette and see there is wiring for a "headlight warning switch". I am assuming that, on a stock Corvette, you can switch the headlights on without the doors being opened? Thats the only reason I can see to do this and the vacuum/electric switch logic for the headlights is so complicated I can't begin to understand it.

My car will have electric doors. So, I'm thinking, why not have a limit switch on the headlight door so when you switch the lights on, the doors pop up and trip the switch that turns the lights on? Then it would be obvious that your lights are on, no warning switch needed.

Also another unrelated question but part of the wiring I don't really understand. Maybe someone here can answer. The 69 schematic shows Left & Right Hand Courtesy Switch and Key Warning Switch connectors. The switches for the Courtesy Lights is straight forward but the Key Warning wire goes to the Horn & Turn Signal Switch connector. My guess is that this sends 12V to the horn relay and causes it to "buzz"? Is that correct?
Can you post the diagram for the headlight warning? I forget what the warning was for, Presumably what you said though...

Are you trying to keep the warning light functional?

Most of the electric headlight door kits are wired into the headlight wiring, so when you turn the lights on, it tells the doors to open, and when you turn them off they close. Kind of eliminates any question if all systems are "go" or not... Unless there is a failure, but like you said, its pretty obvious if the lights arent on or a door isnt open.
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Old 01-08-2020, 12:57 AM
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It looks like the switch is on the headlight door somewhere. I don't have access to an original car so I'm just speculating. The switch goes to the warning light and then the power terminal on the headlight switch.

If opening a headlight door switches the headlights on, I think that is all I need. So, no warning light is my preference.
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