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  #11  
Old 10-10-2018, 09:31 AM
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OZgreen69 OZgreen69 is offline
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Here are some pictures of local racing Vettes dual m/c that I find too big or too long and too close to the bonnet. Anyway this is why I like your setup.
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  #12  
Old 10-16-2018, 03:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtj View Post
If you have room you could make it an I-beam in that area.

I bet a lot of guys would pay to send you their pedal box for conversion.
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Originally Posted by OZgreen69 View Post
I love it!
Strength ? I think that you are good on this one , As you are pushing the pedal you will close the gap, if you understand what I mean? And welded all around... No problem for me, I would do the same. In fact I will do the same as I will copy your mod with no shame at all !!!
So! Don't stop and plenty of pictures please.
Please... copy away!

As far as strength, Im worried about crushing the sleeve... The bearing tolerance is less than .002". If I put 100 lbs of force on the pedal, assuming the masters are hydraulically locked, the pedal should flex (or pivot) about the rear edge of that sleeve (correct me if Im wrong here). If the sleeve is 1" in diameter, half of that is .5. Pedal to the center of the sleeve is 11.25. That gives a ratio of 22.5:1 so at 100 lbs of force on the pedal, there is 2250lbs of force trying to crush this sleeve.
I dont think an I beam would help me here because I already have the center section of the I beam which is what carries this direction of load. I think an H-beam would be more appropriate here, but would require a new pedal design...

Am I overthinking this? Do I need to re-take physics 101? Will real world scenario over-rule theory?
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  #13  
Old 10-16-2018, 09:08 AM
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Any material you add should help. You could also plate it on either side, using plates with holes drilled for the bearing. If there is room.

For bending beams, I (or as you mentioned, H) are really the best. But they take up space.

Or, You could also static load it and see if the bearing binds.

Last edited by rtj; 10-16-2018 at 09:13 AM..
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  #14  
Old 10-19-2018, 05:26 AM
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Here are some pics of dual M/C one for a Toy and other two for Porsche 911.

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You can see how they used the sleeve. I don't think that you will have any problem with yours. About the pedal pressure you want to apply, just drive a car and try to notice/remember how hard that you need to push to stop or slow down, you will be surprised like I did driving my car at the track.
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  #15  
Old Yesterday, 05:48 PM
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Vette427sbc,

Just a suggestion for possible future fab change to improve strength and keep the footprint small.

To minimize the amount of pedal material removal, you could weld on solid disks to each side of the pedal. Then cut the hole for the spherical bearing. Or Possibly, machine the pedal for bearing and snap rings, then weld disks/tubes onto each side for correct spacing.

I like what you are doing, just adding my 2 cents worth.
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  #16  
Old Yesterday, 09:06 PM
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I guess Im over thinking it... Although if I were to do it again, I like your idea, RTJ. Im going to see if I can come up with a way to incorporate that idea into my current setup.

As far as the pedal forces, I think 80lbs at the pedal is the "norm" for a manual brake setup. 100 lbs is what was calculated as my maximum input during braking force calcs, so Im building this around that number + some safety margin. Most racecars are torn down and thoroughly inspected after x amount of hours. Im (trying to!) build and design this car as if a big manufacturer engineered it to be a daily driven car that you shouldnt have to schedule critical system inspections. I plan to do that anyway prior and post track/hard driving events, but Id rather keep that thought in the back of my head when Im out picking up groceries or running errands in this thing
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