Vacuum SUX - Electric Headlights...

saudivette

Clueless In Sandland
Joined
Mar 24, 2008
Messages
2,633
Location
Aussie expat in Saudi Arabia
I don't know if many people have done this mod to their Vette but I have and am very happy with it. You've probably seen my response when someone starts a thread about headlights not, or slow, coming up or going down or any other myriad of vacuum related problems - vacuum SUX, go electric.

The hard work for this mod has been taken away by Chris McDonald who sells a "Killer Lights" bracket kit that you'll need so you can install 93-97 Firebird headlight actuators, in place of the original vacuum setup.

I'm not affiliated with Chris in any way, nor do I stand to make any money if anyone buys his kits. Chris is a very helpful guy and his kit is a great way to upgrade your car with an OEM style look and operation. I won't do a step by step install here as the instructions on Chris's web page are very detailed and easy to follow, so I'll just do a brief rundown.

* * * * *​

The parts you'll need for your conversion are:
  • Killer Light brackets and hardware kit
  • 1993-1997 Firebird Headlight actuators and lift arms. GM part # for new actuators Left 16516653 Right 16516654
  • Headlight Control Module- 1990-1996 Vette. GM part #16521297
  • 1984-1989 Corvette headlight switch. GM part # 1995257
  • Bulk wire for running the connections (14-16 gauge)
  • 1993-1997 Firebird replacement weather pack pig tails for the control module connection. GM part number for connectors: GM replacement Connector # Large - 12102775; Small - 12102776

Buying these parts new from GMpartsdirect will set you back around $580, plus $99.95 for the bracket kit. I paid around $250 for all the parts (eBay) and $99.95 for the bracket kit.

I also opened up the motors and replaced the nylon gears with CNC brass ones. Can't remember how much they cost but I think it was worth the money - nylon gears can strip, brass never will. There's a link on Chris's page to a guy who makes them.

* * * * *​

You'll need to remove the old vacuum actuators from both sides but keep the clevis pins.

The bracket kit comes with bump stops that you'll need to attach to the Firebird actuator arms.

Using the old actuator mounting holes as a guide, you need to mark and drill the holes for the new brackets, then bolt the brackets on. Then bolt the motors onto the brackets and attach the arms.

Using the original clevis pin, attach the firebird arm to the headlight assembly - you'll probably need to manually wind the motor one way or the other to allow the hole in the arm to line up with the mounting hole in the headlight assembly so that the clevis pin will go in.

You'll probably need to adjust the closed position of the headlight door so it sits correctly, but that's the mechanical side basically finished.
 
Last edited:
Wiring/electrickery:

Mount the control module somewhere out of the weather but somewhere where you can access it.

Remove your stock headlight switch from the dash and install the 84-89 Corvette switch, then re-install your original C3 shaft and knob.

This is for the LARGER plug on the control module:
Run two 14-16 gauge wires from wherever you plan to mount the module to the headlight switch. The 84-89 switch has an extra terminal that will be exposed when you plug your stock C3 harness back onto it. This is the DOWN feed terminal. Attach a female spade to that terminal. This wire goes to terminal "C" on the module. Splice into the main headlight "on" feed at the switch and attach the other end of this wire to the "A" terminal on the control module. Run a 15 amp fuse (one fuse in each wire) in two separate 14-16 gauge wires from a battery (all the time powered) post to terminal "B" and "E" on the module. These wires provide the power to the actuators. Run a solid chassis ground to terminal "D" on the module.

This is for the SMALLER plug on the module:
These wires go from the module to the actuators. Terminal "A and B" apply to the left actuator. Terminal "D and C" apply to the right actuator. Connect the wires at the actuators. No matter where you left the lights (open or closed), they will cycle to the right spot when you pull the switch. If they go backward from each other, or from the switch, reverse the wires at each actuator. Do not mix up any wires from A and B with wires from D and C.

Large Connector: A=UP, B=12 volt in, C=Down, D=Chassis Ground, E=12 volt in

Small Connector: A/B= left side actuator, power D/C= right side actuator power

* * * * *​

You can use a 93-02 Firebird headlight control module and use your standard C3 headlight swicth but the wiring is a bit different. The up signal is wired exactly the same, the down signal is accomplished by grounding terminal "C" on the Firebird control module. This will cause the lights to drop as soon as they are turned off, even if the parking lights remain on.

* * * * *​

When I was doing my wiring, I got the replacement "pig tails" that go into the module and into the headlight motors. I removed each wire from the pig tail plug then opened up the original connector on the end (from inside the plug) then removed the piece of replacement wire and crimped and soldered my length of new "harness" wire into it then re fitted it back into the plug. I ended up with a "new" harness without any inline splices anywhere. Also, when I cut the main power wire at the switch, I cut off the female spade and terminated the original power wire and the wire to "A" on the module into a new female spade then reconnected it to the switch.

* * * * *​

Converting your headlights to electric is pretty straight forward. If you go at a slow pace, you'll get it all done in a weekend. This has been a broad outline of the procedure but if it's taken your interest, go to http://mcspeed.homestead.com/Our_Products.html and read Chris's thorough install procedure...

* * * * *​
 
Last edited:
Chris lived about 2 miles down the road a piece from me when he was developing that system, and it's a GOOD one, been some 2-3 years since I seen him, he got transferred south about 200 miles or so....

that man is a fanatical craftsman that shames about 95% of the best attempts out there, and he does it ALL.....

more talent than a cast of Shakespear actors....

should see his black shark there that 69myway car....freeking beautiful...

I lost my operating headlight mechanisms to a hit from a damn Florida deer, square up head on in '98 during that summer fire storm season...

so put in Ecklers trays for a cheep/dooable solution they now are grown into a fixed custom install....maybe change it yet again when prices on later model C6 ish type bulbs/lenses come down to the 100 bux for ALL region...they will, just give it time....then it will be updated yet again....

and be even lower profile, narrower openings....
 
I would like to see someone use a linear actuator like from spal. That would look so much cleaner. That's the only thing I don't like about the killer lights, it looks like a total clusterfuck under the hood. :clobbered:
 
I actually thought it looked less cluttered than when the big vacuum actuators and that big old soup can were in there.

Mine will never see the inside of a car show and it's a quick and easy mod and gives you reliable headlights straight away :thumbs:
 
I actually thought it looked less cluttered than when the big vacuum actuators and that big old soup can were in there.

Mine will never see the inside of a car show and it's a quick and easy mod and gives you reliable headlights straight away :thumbs:


I honestly was glad to see those geekey lights GO, didnn't like the attendant body damage to the fenders, but well, so be it, guess I could say at least the damn deer didn't wind up in the car through the w/sheild.....

but anyway, IMO, the car looks mucho better NOW, and did at that time with the now dated looking Eckler's scoops....but I am thinking of some headlights from later cars, and if the diameters work out correctly mounting them up higher and further out, to then block off more of the holes....

tomorrow....

operating headlights are just un necessary...I don't care for the weight and failure prone mechanisms.....
 
I would like to see someone use a linear actuator like from spal. That would look so much cleaner. That's the only thing I don't like about the killer lights, it looks like a total clusterfuck under the hood. :clobbered:

I found this website on another forum for linear actuators. I could see this being an easy mod for the lights and the wiper door. This would look clean and simple and the cost of the actuators is reasonable.

http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=110&products_id=128
 
Exactly, that would look so much cleaner. Even if the actuator can't stick back because of length, if one used a cam linkage and mounted the actuator 90deg. sideways it would still look super clean. Hmmm...dimensions. Maybe time to model one of these puppies and see what's possible here.
 
Exactly, that would look so much cleaner. Even if the actuator can't stick back because of length, if one used a cam linkage and mounted the actuator 90deg. sideways it would still look super clean. Hmmm...dimensions. Maybe time to model one of these puppies and see what's possible here.


Problem I see with using ONE actuator for both lights is holding the lights so they don't vibrate with road surfaces/bumps that would deflect the beams all over the joint, even with a little bit of vibes....


so that is one actuator per side, and given the needed location, I don't see any savings in weight, simplicity or effectiveness....

still operating headlights with the primary 200 lbs each weight being in place....

vs my fixed lights (or any plactic fixed light, really) at maybe 10 lbs each filled with helium....
 
I would like to see somebody use those linear actuators too :D i think they would work great,and have a nice clean set up,since i like the flip up lights better than the fixed light,just dosent look right on a vette :(
As far as the headlights bouncing with those vs the vacume,give me a break.
TT time for you to go to work and figure it out :yahoo:
 
I won't be using pop up lights. BBShark however has some crazy mod where the light only opens a wee bit. I'm passing it on to him :)
 
Mine do bounce a tiny bit with the electric motors installed but when they're up, they're locked up so I can't see how it could be because of the electric motors. I never drove it at night with the vacuum shit installed so I can't say if they bounced as well, but I assume they must have.

I agree with Kevin, I reckon the C3's look better with the pop up's...
 
Last edited:
I would like to see somebody use those linear actuators too :D i think they would work great,and have a nice clean set up,since i like the flip up lights better than the fixed light,just dosent look right on a vette :(
As far as the headlights bouncing with those vs the vacume,give me a break.
TT time for you to go to work and figure it out :yahoo:

IF the HUGE oversized lids were changed to something more in line with my openings, and then lifted up say 3-4" worth instead of 6-8" like stock, I would say it's a good project, but to lift the stock huge lids only 3-4" with modern lights in there, makes no sense, as the lids are too huge,

Way before the deer accident that broke the lights outta there, I had been looking to modify the system for superior looks and operation, but never got to the project....
 
IF the HUGE oversized lids were changed to something more in line with my openings, and then lifted up say 3-4" worth instead of 6-8" like stock, I would say it's a good project, but to lift the stock huge lids only 3-4" with modern lights in there, makes no sense, as the lids are too huge,

Way before the deer accident that broke the lights outta there, I had been looking to modify the system for superior looks and operation, but never got to the project....

If the huge oversized lids were changed to to look like yours,there would be no lids,as you don't have any. Sugar scoops are ok,look better on the race cars,as for street cars the flip ups look far better,keeps the ft of the car clean,no holes in the ft of the car,just don't look right, they remind me of the car from Corvette Summer :huh:
 
If the huge oversized lids were changed to to look like yours,there would be no lids,as you don't have any. Sugar scoops are ok,look better on the race cars,as for street cars the flip ups look far better,keeps the ft of the car clean,no holes in the ft of the car,just don't look right, they remind me of the car from Corvette Summer :huh:


I hear you, and agree to a certain extent.....but....weight, simplicity, relaibility, COST, and small holes being 1/2 size from stock.....

thought to paint the scoops black glossey metalic with that gray filler paint/primer there to remind of a shark....

it would be neat to put someting like a plastic frame in there to hold operational headlights, and use something lo profile on a smaller door to raise them maybe 3" in front were they do stock, and the door 1/2 size or maybe even narrower laterally....

that would out cool the Fonz....

:beer:

I posted this and then the thought HIT me.....hell, leave the lights alone, installed just the way they ARE......and make a simple door that swings off the existing work, and some bar to lift it up easy enough....doors don't move anything but a layer of glass with an edge around it...so don't weigh nothing, not going to kill me if the flap in the breeze slightly, the mechanism is small and lightweight, hell, use the WSWiper door activator being as it''s setting here collecting dust....

but that would suck, so maybe do a small geartrain motor from a modern heater controll....I have one in the car now, used to run the flapper back and forth on the HVAC system...same as a modern car but manual controlled....
 
Last edited:
There you go, now your thinking. Make a small light weight door to open and close and leave the headlights stationary,maybe a composite door,or made from carbon fibre. That would look real good :cool:
 
I found this website on another forum for linear actuators. I could see this being an easy mod for the lights and the wiper door. This would look clean and simple and the cost of the actuators is reasonable.

http://www.firgelliauto.com/product_info.php?cPath=110&products_id=128

I think you probably saw my original post on CF- I'll be trying it soon, though it will be a long time before they are needed on my car (just started a frame-off). I'll be using two actuators, as I think anything else will just add too much complexity and clutter.
 
Top