Body pull

00fxd

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Mar 25, 2008
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549
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Western Canada
Well it looks like I am going to pull my Convertable body this off season to switch frames. Never done it on a '65 Corvette before. Does anybody know how much the body weighs without hood, rad, seats, column, but with doors, glass, front end and soft top ?
Thanks, Frank.
 
Thanks Danny. I'm hoping that I could have 4 - 6 guys lift the body and set it over on the new frame. I will need to know lift points and stuff from anyone who has done it this way.
 
I done it both ways, and obviously it depends on the guys and the shop, but IMO, do it with a cherry picker and straps to the door sills front and rear, and support the front clip with a line to the hook to keep stress off the cowling glues/plastic.....

need go lateraly off the side of the car......

doing it with a bunch of guys is kinds hard in that they have to walk around the frame with it, and coordination of efforts makes it kinda problematical.....

I remember setting a body on some wooden structure once some years ago, that was a trip.....:gurney::beer: too many guys, too much beer....:shocking:
 
I done it both ways, and obviously it depends on the guys and the shop, but IMO, do it with a cherry picker and straps to the door sills front and rear, and support the front clip with a line to the hook to keep stress off the cowling glues/plastic.....

need go lateraly off the side of the car......

doing it with a bunch of guys is kinds hard in that they have to walk around the frame with it, and coordination of efforts makes it kinda problematical.....

I remember setting a body on some wooden structure once some years ago, that was a trip.....:gurney::beer: too many guys, too much beer....:shocking:

I seen them do it with 8 guys on the Noland Adams tape. Looks to be a little clumsy. Best with the straps, no one gets hurt in case the car cracks in half. Lets hope not!

Danny
 
Thanks fellas. My plan is to have the second frame ready, pick it off the first and set it down on the second. Shouldn't be too big a deal. I suppose the thing to worry about is the front end breaking off.
 
I have seen sharks with just 4 lift points....on the door jamb area....and the freeking front end stayed put....

I also seen sharks so rusted out the front end was basically already separated from the cowling....which means about 6 bolts and pick that nose....

best of luck on your progess....lettuce no how it turns out....

:2nd:
 
Thanks mrvette. Gotta pick up the replacement frame a few hrs away from me, so I'li want to get it here first. Then I'll fly at it.
 
i lift at the door jamb. 2 pieces of 3' chain and 4 s hooks and a union. i NEVER lift by hand. you risk popping the joints at the fender well. this is the safest way i know .
 

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i lift at the door jamb. 2 pieces of 3' chain and 4 s hooks and a union. i NEVER lift by hand. you risk popping the joints at the fender well. this is the safest way i know .

Without bracing that door opening, that would scare the hell outa me.
 
I do something similar, the front hinge bolt holes, the floor seat belt attachments and the belt attachments on the hoop. !
 
i lift at the door jamb. 2 pieces of 3' chain and 4 s hooks and a union. i NEVER lift by hand. you risk popping the joints at the fender well. this is the safest way i know .

Without bracing that door opening, that would scare the hell outa me.

Thats what I was thinking - about the door opening, thats why I would be leaving the doors on. I also plan to leave the front end on and just do the old frame switcharoo. How about sliding some timber across underneath at those points, having 4 good men lifting there and have 2 at the back bumpers [I believe that the back bumpers can remain on the body?] for support. And 2 supporting the front end. Is this a plan? Thanks all, Frank.
 
the early bodys are not that heavy. these are the strongest areas of the body and there is no risk of popping the fenders. this was the recommended way we were shown in a class for gm back in the early 70's. the 62 i just finished was brought to me on a jig and had all 4 fenders popped from hand lifting .
 
i lift at the door jamb. 2 pieces of 3' chain and 4 s hooks and a union. i NEVER lift by hand. you risk popping the joints at the fender well. this is the safest way i know .

Without bracing that door opening, that would scare the hell outa me.

Thats what I was thinking - about the door opening, thats why I would be leaving the doors on. I also plan to leave the front end on and just do the old frame switcharoo. How about sliding some timber across underneath at those points, having 4 good men lifting there and have 2 at the back bumpers [I believe that the back bumpers can remain on the body?] for support. And 2 supporting the front end. Is this a plan? Thanks all, Frank.

When I pull a vert with the doors off, I make a brace, and tie the top door hinge to the door latch. Keeps it rigid. Verts without doors tend to sag from the weight. I have some pics pulling a 55 T-Bird around here somewhere.
 
i lift at the door jamb. 2 pieces of 3' chain and 4 s hooks and a union. i NEVER lift by hand. you risk popping the joints at the fender well. this is the safest way i know .

Without bracing that door opening, that would scare the hell outa me.

Thats what I was thinking - about the door opening, thats why I would be leaving the doors on. I also plan to leave the front end on and just do the old frame switcharoo. How about sliding some timber across underneath at those points, having 4 good men lifting there and have 2 at the back bumpers [I believe that the back bumpers can remain on the body?] for support. And 2 supporting the front end. Is this a plan? Thanks all, Frank.

When I pull a vert with the doors off, I make a brace, and tie the top door hinge to the door latch. Keeps it rigid. Verts without doors tend to sag from the weight. I have some pics pulling a 55 T-Bird around here somewhere.

I forgot to mention that....pay attention to Bird man there......

on a hardtop/coupe it's not a problem, only on rag tops.....

:eek:
 
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