Getting away with autozone brake pads on a roadcourse

I'm not sure either, they have a ton of bite even when cold

And they just gouge my rotors

It's only been like 12 events, 1.25 miles and 8 runs each day. I barely even use the brakes
 
Yellow73SB said:
I'm not sure either, they have a ton of bite even when cold

And they just gouge my rotors

It's only been like 12 events, 1.25 miles and 8 runs each day. I barely even use the brakes
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That comes out to a set of rotors every 60 miles and you don't use the brakes much.

I ain't no racer, but that don't sound right to me.
 
HPDE's are not brake heaters unless you have a very high power to weight ration and are running quality slicks.

My advise would be auto zone carbon metalic pads, air ducting to fronts, removal of all rotor dust shields, 580 - 600 degree brake fluid, new SS braided steel soft lines, completely change the old low temp fluid out, and go racing.


If you ever feel brake fade or softer petal, slow down and pull into the pits immediately. If you boiled the 600 degree - then you have to start upgrading:1st:
 
gkull said:
If you ever feel brake fade or softer petal, slow down and pull into the pits immediately.
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That's the worst thing you can do...you need to first take a few cool down laps, without using the brakes. Pulling into the pits immediately will boil your fluid for sure. Calipers need air flow to cool them.
 
69autoXr said:
gkull said:
If you ever feel brake fade or softer petal, slow down and pull into the pits immediately.
Click to expand...

That's the worst thing you can do...you need to first take a few cool down laps, without using the brakes. Pulling into the pits immediately will boil your fluid for sure. Calipers need air flow to cool them.
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no, if you have questionable brakes you slow down and pit ASAP.

i don't think you would be popular with the rest of the group if you continue to cruise slowly around the track holding everybody up to cool your brakes.
 
turtlevette said:
69autoXr said:
gkull said:
If you ever feel brake fade or softer petal, slow down and pull into the pits immediately.
Click to expand...

That's the worst thing you can do...you need to first take a few cool down laps, without using the brakes. Pulling into the pits immediately will boil your fluid for sure. Calipers need air flow to cool them.
Click to expand...

no, if you have questionable brakes you slow down and pit ASAP.

i don't think you would be popular with the rest of the group if you continue to cruise slowly around the track holding everybody up to cool your brakes.
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I disagree, and so would many others that I run with. To each his own I guess, but I don't really give a fuck about being popular. If I'm on cool-down laps, I drive offline and am not holding anyone up.

Is that what they teach at HPDE's?
 
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69autoXr said:
gkull said:
If you ever feel brake fade or softer petal, slow down and pull into the pits immediately.
Click to expand...

That's the worst thing you can do...you need to first take a few cool down laps, without using the brakes. Pulling into the pits immediately will boil your fluid for sure. Calipers need air flow to cool them.
Click to expand...

I felt the mushy brakes and had to pump them going into a turn before. The heat soak was boiling my fluid. I had slowed down and drove 30 seconds for the next turn and I was lucky because I was completely out of brakes. The pits might be two miles away when they fail. I'm not talking about the slim chance that your brakes fail on the end of a lap right at pit entrance. Once the fluid is boiled they don't magically get better even if you froze them in a cryogenic lab. I rolled into the pits without brakes and had to shut it off in gear to stop

Anyway who cares if they boil more when your stopped in the pits. You still have to pull all the wheels and bleed them.
 
How about a duct going to caliper? I have one going to the center right now, I was thinking about making one that went on the side and on the pads
 
Yellow73SB said:
How about a duct going to caliper? I have one going to the center right now, I was thinking about making one that went on the side and on the pads
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The air needs to go to the center of the rotor. The rotor should be designed to cause air flow with rotation. Correctly designed race wheels also generate air flow going out

Air on the outside of the caliper would not do much. The heat x-fer from the pad is directly to it's only contact points the pistons. The fluid boils down inside.
 
I think it should help some, if thats all 69autoxr is using and it's working

I don't think I can fit two ducts into the center anyways

Heres a duct that goes to the caliper and center

PictureorVideo009.jpg
 
Is that a Corvette? then I think you are trying to compare apples to oranges. Notice the rotor? big and beefy unlike a Corvette rotor. Notice the pads? big and beefy unlike a Corvette pad....see a trend here?
 
It also has twice the horsepower, my car is not that fast by any means.

Guldstrand hasn't gotten back to me yet, how much do you think the endurance kit runs?Are you running thicker rotorS
 
Yellow73SB said:
It also has twice the horsepower, my car is not that fast by any means.

Guldstrand hasn't gotten back to me yet, how much do you think the endurance kit runs?Are you running thicker rotorS
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endurance kit:lol: I'll take your car and reduce it to a smoking pile of rubble in one 20 minute session. Brake pad thickness is the least of your worries.
 
redvetracr said:
Is that a Corvette? then I think you are trying to compare apples to oranges. Notice the rotor? big and beefy unlike a Corvette rotor. Notice the pads? big and beefy unlike a Corvette pad....see a trend here?
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Yes, and wheel tether like new NASCAR 2009 rules. Painted to tell if it is up to 1100 -1400 degrees
 
gkull said:
redvetracr said:
Is that a Corvette? then I think you are trying to compare apples to oranges. Notice the rotor? big and beefy unlike a Corvette rotor. Notice the pads? big and beefy unlike a Corvette pad....see a trend here?
Click to expand...

Yes, and wheel tether like new NASCAR 2009 rules. Painted to tell if it is up to 1100 -1400 degrees
Click to expand...

A Corvette with a jack screw and front steering?? I don`t think so..
 
redvetracr said:
gkull said:
redvetracr said:
Is that a Corvette? then I think you are trying to compare apples to oranges. Notice the rotor? big and beefy unlike a Corvette rotor. Notice the pads? big and beefy unlike a Corvette pad....see a trend here?
Click to expand...

Yes, and wheel tether like new NASCAR 2009 rules. Painted to tell if it is up to 1100 -1400 degrees
Click to expand...

A Corvette with a jack screw and front steering?? I don`t think so..
Click to expand...

Red i was saying "Yes" to your statement and that looks allot like the new NASCAR suspension with the new 2009 rule requiring tethered wheels

That is a nice setup. but it cost more than some people's whole c-3 corvette
 
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