Wilwood Dual Master Brake Pedal Assembly in a c3?

rtj

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Nov 5, 2011
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I bought one of these years ago for my Camaro, then decided to just replace the existing unit with an identical unit.

So, I'm thinking this might go in my 73 convertible project. Has anyone done this or have photos?
 
Looks tight, I might be able to route the lines forward. I was hoping to squeeze it in and keep the OEM clutch pedal. It might require a hydraulic clutch install.

I've searched a lot and no photos of one in a vette.

The dash is out, I may get it out of the box for a look.
 
Got the new body gutted out, and this looks like a bolt in. The only thing is the pedal is pretty crude. They make a newer style and sell it as an upgrade, but it is still straight. I'm thinking about adapting the c3 pedal to mate to the wilwood I-beam.

The lines do go forward, so width should not be an issue.

The balance bar is in the stock pedal, otherwise I'd ditch it.

Speedway sold me 1" and 7/8" bores, so I need to do some calculations. D8 calipers have different diameters front to rear.


http://dev.stoptech.com/docs/media-center-documents/pedalsetup-dualmaster-guide
 
I think your issue will be pedal travel. The firewall mount is so far forward and the floor curves so much towards the driver that when you put that in, either the pedal will be adjusted to where it's aimed straight at you so that you have some travel.... I also think you may have issues with the width of the dual cylinders.

With that said, if you wanted to hide the MC, that may actually work

As for the clutch, I used the stock hole and a remote reservoir... so there is the ability to get room next to it...

I have pictures if you need to see that...
 
I think your issue will be pedal travel. The firewall mount is so far forward and the floor curves so much towards the driver that when you put that in, either the pedal will be adjusted to where it's aimed straight at you so that you have some travel.... I also think you may have issues with the width of the dual cylinders.

With that said, if you wanted to hide the MC, that may actually work

As for the clutch, I used the stock hole and a remote reservoir... so there is the ability to get room next to it...

I have pictures if you need to see that...

Sure, I'm interested to see your hydraulic clutch photos.

If I cut the wilwood pedal part way down and adapt the stock clutch pedal I think it will work. But I've got more work to do before I can tell for sure.
 
Another option is use the stock pedal and add this:



"Balance bar assembly is used in all current Wilwood standard balance bar pedals and remote pedal 60 degree master cylinder mounts. It can be used to replace a damaged or worn balance bar, or to update an older model balance bar that did not included the detent assembly. The balance bar incorporates a positive detent stop every full turn to maintain adjustment position and driver awareness"

It's sold separately.
 
This might be best, I'd use the master cylinders and fab the rest.

"This balance bar kit includes a steel sleeve to use when fabricating custom steel arm pedals. The balance bar incorporates a positive detent stop every full turn to maintain adjustment position and driver awareness. A pin and clevis pushrod attachment system provides highest possible degree of misalignment angle for bind free operation through the entire range of travel. The balance bar can be locked in place with the included jam nut, or used with an optional remote cable or adjustment knob"
 
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