L-88 pressure plate weight?

Trying to decide whether it's worth it to get a new pressure plate when I swap over the transmission. I presently have the L-88 flywheel/disc, and pressure plate. I see one of the speed shop catalogs lists a 10.5" pressure plate at 13.4#. I need to dig up the old part number of my present PP and see if I can find a weight on it. As a last resort I can pull the clutch setup apart and weigh it (when I pull the transmission) but I was just curious if anyone knows the weight of the old L-88 pressure plates.

Thanks.

Its part no. 3991406. 15 lbs.

Edit: Oops you were looking for PP weight. Never mind.

PP is part no. 6273958.

Mine is setting on the bench right now. If I can steal the wife's bathroom scale I'll get you a weight for it.

If you just want yours "tuned-up" Casper Brake is downtown about 17th and Cherry. They used to rebuild, I'm guessing they still do.

Transmission and shifter weight (reduction)

Just doing some time killing activities until it warms up enough out in the garage for some serious wrenching (swapping out the 5 speed for a 30# lighter Muncie). I'm working on a shifter mount that bolts to the transmission instead of the crossmember. Got a temporary one made up that I'll use until I get the shifter shimmed around in the right spot in the console. Meanwhile I was grossed out by the weight of the shifter linkage so I made some replacements with tubing. I initially planned on doing it with aluminum tubing but I quickly figured out that it would take twice the work with only minimal additional weight savings. I did replace the Reverse arm with an aluminum piece and if I get bored in the future I'll do the other two arms similarly. Here's everything at tack weld stage.




The weight savings was about 35%, but that still only yielded a reduction of slightly less than a pound.

Like I said, just killing time until it warms up a bit outside.

WTH, just asking anyway.

Starting to pull stuff apart to get the transmission out. Along with the clutch disc spline change it just occurred to me that the Muncie has a different u-joint size on the output yoke than the Nash which uses a turbo400 yoke. I currently have one of those two size adapter u-joints on it to mate up with the stock driveshaft. Two questions:

1) To save myself some disassembly and reassembly time does anybody make (or another application use) an output yoke that fits the Muncie tailshaft but use the larger u-joints like the turbo400 yoke?

2) It's my impression that the 400 is longer than the Muncie and would need a shorter driveshaft. The rear u-joint would have to be able to connect to the pinion yoke, so that would need the smaller u-joint (at least in two of the trunnions(?). I assume (and I can be wrong here) that Chevrolet didn't use adapter u-joints, so were there different front and rear u-joints in automatic applications?

Thanks!

69427 said:

:

1) To save myself some disassembly and reassembly time does anybody make (or another application use) an output yoke that fits the Muncie tailshaft but use the larger u-joints like the turbo400 yoke?

Click to expand...

like this one?? $110 delivered and it`s yours.

redvetracr said:

69427 said:

:

1) To save myself some disassembly and reassembly time does anybody make (or another application use) an output yoke that fits the Muncie tailshaft but use the larger u-joints like the turbo400 yoke?

Click to expand...

like this one?? $110 delivered and it`s yours.

Click to expand...

Thanks. Let me think about it a bit.

Got the clutch out. The 98# transmission was the easy part of the deal. The bellhousing bolt at 10 o'clock was a bitch to get out. There's tons of room for all the bolts except that one. There's a bulge in the firewall right there that limits the bolt length, and it barely came out, even when letting the engine sag down further than I wanted it to. I had put the trans in with the engine so bolt length wasn't a big deal at the time. I'll swap that bolt with one of the others that has more room around it.

Pressure plate: 16# on my wallyworld scale. Looks like I'll take a chance on the 13# pressure plate, and a new disc while I'm at it.

Edit: My new (600#) digital scale arrived today. It says the pressure plate is 16.8#.

L-88 pressure plate clamping force?

Just trying to do some comparisons. Anyone know the pressure number for this disc. I've looked around the web but have struck out so far.

Thanks.

Got the new clutch and pressure plate today. The pressure plate is nice and light (13.4# in my scale), and the disc is also lighter. Don't know if I'm paranoid, but I need to talk to the clutch manufacturer to see if this disc is more rugged than it looks. I posted this question on their site but I got a reply saying it didn't go through. Looks like I'll just give their tech line a call tomorrow and see what I find out. It's finally warm weather here and I'd like to get some serious stuff done while it's comfortable out in the shop.

Talked to the tech line at the disc manufacturer and yup, that disc is a bit light duty for any serious fun. I ordered a different one and that one looks sweet. Got the disc and pressure plate installed today. The pressure plate is about 3 1/4 pounds lighter, and the disc is a half pound lighter, for about 3 3/4 pounds less rotating mass. Gonna try to get the transmission in tomorrow so I can start working on the shifter mounting bracket.

Got the transmission in, and am going to slightly tweak the "first guess" location of the stock Muncie shifter. I need to get the trans angle set first. Instead of messing with the stock crossmember (I modified it a bit for the Nash box) I decided to build a new crossmember. The stock unit is 22#, so I'm hoping to drop some weight in the process. Got the first bits of material cut today.



I'm going to try to get the crossmember tacked together this week, and then get the transmission positioned so I can figure out where to put the mount. Once that's done then I can finish the shifter bracket.

Mike, long as you fabbing up a new cross support, I recommend your removing the bottom of the exhaust loops, and doing like a bridge structure across the top loop, that means the pipes hang maybe a inch lower, but still not as lo as the lower loops on the support.....I did that with my stock support, and so I can drop the entire pipes system from headers back with just 6 bolts, on the deck and outta there....makes getting at the trans SO easy....


God I"m lazy.....:shocking::gurney:

Muncie shifter ball material?

Need some help clearing up a bit of confusion on my part. Is the OEM shifter ball stainless steel? The thing is a relatively heavy piece of material. I am/was going to replace it with a lighter weight part (aluminum). The ball looks and feels like steel, but it's non-magnetic. Stainless steel seems a bit exotic and expensive for this application, although I could understand its use to prevent the appearance of a big rustball on top of the shifter stick in moist climates. Just curious if I'm way off base on this guess/conclusion.

Thanks for any clarification.