power steering pump rebuilding

Belgian1979vette

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Due to the fact that the pulley on my power steering pump was bent, I was disassembling that and decided that it might be better to rebuilt the whole pump.

Untill now I see either remanufactured pumps or a O-ring kit.

Anyone know what the quality is on the rebuilt pumps ?

I suppose that what I do, I can do better, but I can hardly imagine that only the seals need replacing. Is there a place that supplies all the parts that wear or is there rarely any wear on the moving parts ?
 
I personally have NEVER seen anything more than a O ring kit needed on a GM power steering pump.....been like 55 years now....

HOWEVER, wait for further added knowledge...

:mobeer::flash:
 
When you disassemble the pump to replace the seals and o-rings, take a look at the cam ring surface where the pump vanes slide. If you can see chatter marks, you will need a new ring. Look at the plates on either side of the ring. If you can see spall marks where the rotor spins against the plates, you need a new pump.

If you can feel a wobble when you press the pump driveshaft side to side. The bushing in the pump housing is worn and you need a new pump. As part of the manufacturing process, Nexteer (formerly Saginaw Steering), hones the driveshaft bushings with respect to some precision dowel pin holes in the housing. You do not get this precision operation if you just replace the bushings. You are best served with a new pump not a rebuilt one.

I always recommend that you replace the power steering fluid with genuine GM fluid. It operates best because it was designed to work with the Saginaw line of pumps and helps prevent the above wear conditions.
Jim
 
what i did was get a power sterring pump with a remote tank off a ford and then got a aulm. v belt pully to put on it made mounting brackets therefore making it ezer to check and fill

i have got rebulit pumps before and the bearings have went out of the on the chevy pumps so if your going to stay with the chevy pump and buy one buy a new not rebulit one
 
Just dismantled it and the ring has axial marks in it.

So I guess I'm going to need a new one. Which brands are new ones and have the correct pressure rating ?
 
Just dismantled it and the ring has axial marks in it.

So I guess I'm going to need a new one. Which brands are new ones and have the correct pressure rating ?

well it looks like your going to have to get a rebuilt pump i cant find a new one and a1 cardone is a good brand and for the pressure that is set by the pully size reuse your pully that you have
 
Just dismantled it and the ring has axial marks in it.

So I guess I'm going to need a new one. Which brands are new ones and have the correct pressure rating ?

well it looks like your going to have to get a rebuilt pump i cant find a new one and a1 cardone is a good brand and for the pressure that is set by the pully size reuse your pully that you have


Jim is the engineer familiar with that GM design effort, and he says it's in the brass fittings on the large nut output port, several parts in there, and they set the bypass/flow/pressure.....somehow I just dumb lucked into the right combo for MY car/use years ago, when doing the serp drive from a '88+ L98 vette...and so I took the L98 pump brass out and changed to the stock '72 L48 engine stuff, hooked it to the stock '72 steering and no sweat....

when doing the Grand Am rack conversion just over ten years ago, many months/almost a year before any kits were out, I just kept the same stuff the car had when new....works fine for the rack, and some years later my Hydroboost addition changed nothing....still the same stock '72 valving....

it is my recollection that Jim said the pressures were much less than for a rack, but I forget about flow rates....

car on road since '95 with serp drive, then just over ten years ago, went rack, and about 5 years ago went HB....

lucked out, I suppose....:hissyfit:
 
Just dismantled it and the ring has axial marks in it.

So I guess I'm going to need a new one. Which brands are new ones and have the correct pressure rating ?

well it looks like your going to have to get a rebuilt pump i cant find a new one and a1 cardone is a good brand and for the pressure that is set by the pully size reuse your pully that you have


Jim is the engineer familiar with that GM design effort, and he says it's in the brass fittings on the large nut output port, several parts in there, and they set the bypass/flow/pressure.....somehow I just dumb lucked into the right combo for MY car/use years ago, when doing the serp drive from a '88+ L98 vette...and so I took the L98 pump brass out and changed to the stock '72 L48 engine stuff, hooked it to the stock '72 steering and no sweat....

when doing the Grand Am rack conversion just over ten years ago, many months/almost a year before any kits were out, I just kept the same stuff the car had when new....works fine for the rack, and some years later my Hydroboost addition changed nothing....still the same stock '72 valving....

it is my recollection that Jim said the pressures were much less than for a rack, but I forget about flow rates....

car on road since '95 with serp drive, then just over ten years ago, went rack, and about 5 years ago went HB....

lucked out, I suppose....:hissyfit:

hey bud how you doin
pully size matters to if up put a smaller pully on the pump it will spin faster witch will make more pressure and you can lower it as well by putting a larger pully on it but i dont have a clue about the in sides of the pump lmao i did away with mine like i told you on the phone i allways hated the fact that you had to worm your way through the belts so therefore i put a ford pump on that has a separate reservoir for eazy access made the brackets and bought a v belt pully that was 5 1/4 dia. same size as the serp. belt pully it had on it
 
SO many ways to skin the cat, trick is....keep from getting scratched....

and the bigger the cat....well we know about that shit too....:shocking::devil:
 
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