Coating bare fiberglass?

clutchdust

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I'm still doing a lot of body work on my car and have a lot of exposed fiberglass. Since this is the middle of summer, I'm not doing that much work right now. Problem is, every time I touch the damn car I get fiberglass in my skin. I need to get some kind of coating that I can still work on the body, but I can also touch it and not get shit in my skin. Obviously, I'd like to gelcoat the car, but I'm still quite a way from that step.
Any thoughts on something? Even if it's just temporary? Hell, I've thought about floor wax, but I'm willing to try anything if you guys have any ideas.
 
Wax - Not!

If you do - you'll have a nice mold to work with! Wax will work as a release agent and anything you put over it will peal off.

I'd coat the problem areas with a thin coat of resin applied with a foam roller.
Then when ready to paint/add more glass/etc, a light sanding to "key" the area will get you in business. Here I'd use epoxy resin - as it will stick to polyester/smc/etc thats underneath.

Hope that helps.

Cheers - Jim
 
If you do - you'll have a nice mold to work with! Wax will work as a release agent and anything you put over it will peal off.

I'd coat the problem areas with a thin coat of resin applied with a foam roller.
Then when ready to paint/add more glass/etc, a light sanding to "key" the area will get you in business. Here I'd use epoxy resin - as it will stick to polyester/smc/etc thats underneath.

Hope that helps.

Cheers - Jim

That will definitely seal it. :yahoo:

I would never do that stuff at home in a garage.
If you are still doing body work, see if you can get setup outside under a canopy of sorts with powerfull fans when sanding so the dust will go up and away. Inside, the glass dust is so lite, it just recirculates forever. I just wipe with lacquer thinner or rinse glass off with a hose, it doesn't come back. Wearing longsleeves helps, but hot.
A drum fan out of an old a/c air handler is great and the price is right, you just have to make a 220v receptacle.
 
Might do the epoxy resin, think that's a pretty good idea. But what's the difference between epoxy resin and the regular resin I use with the FG matte?
 
I just wear a long shirt when working on the car...suck it up buttercup;)

But seriously, if you need to move the car when you aren't working on it, here is an idea. Cover the car in plastic when you aren't working on it. That's what I do...it prevents people from touching it.

There is no way around it buddy...that's the way it is when you have a car made out of fiberglass.
 
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there is also a product on the market called wreck wrap. that is like cling wrap for your car. It is used to cover damaged cars at bodyshops to keep water out. static clings to any damn thing. If it will keep out water is will surely keep the fiberglass in.........
 
Clutchdust - I like epoxy, as I use it a lot. And, it adheres better to poly than poly to poly. Sorta a case of molecular "Nobility." From lowest to highest:
Polyester (standard - walmat/kmart-boat resin)
Vinylester Resin (Not readily available - use for water tank lining originally)
Epoxy Resin
Exotic resins (Ceramic etc)
Always go to the next "more "noble"when coating over. If the substrate is unknown - raise the ante. If previous work was in epoxy and you coat over/layup in polyester (less noble) you could have adhesion problems.

To keep glass itch off before you start-- use a lot of baby powder on your skin then suit up! Mask too! And use a fan...
When you wash off use cold water - not hot - it opens the pores and -- more itch.

A great source for resins in FL -- US Composites - I buy a lot from them.
BTW resins are a petro-product and costs are tied to oil.
There ya go -- hope that helps.

Cheers - Jim
 
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