Wheel hop

00fxd

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Mar 25, 2008
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Western Canada
Leaveing from a full stop, the wheel spin is non eventful but sometimes in process of showing off occasionally I'll do a rolling burn out using the clutch from 10mph or so at which time I experience some wheel hop. I have pretty sticky tires, KDW's. What would be the cure for this? A pinion snubber [which the Corvette sorta has anyway] fixes live axle cars but with IRS I fear I might need a solution at the wheels. Does anyone have any idea's or experiences? 1965 Corvette.
 
That kit won't cure wheel hop, what you need is to rigidly mount your differential first. it absolutely has to stay in place to even begin to cure wheel hop.

Additional pinion brace. Make sure you fabricate or buy something that actually works. I've seen some creations out there that tie the diff case to the underside of the pinion m,ount, in effect tying the case to itself It needs to go to the frame and a piece of square tubing with a bolt through is not good enough, you'll end up with an elongated hole and a loose bolt. A properly sized gusset w/ close fitting hole and a section of tubing with a sleeve welded in will work. Even better would be to tie it diagonally sideways, that way it can't go up and sideways. Hmmm...maybe something to design here... :)

Better tie rod bushings, better trailing arm bushing (full spherical or johnny joint), anything to reduce flexing in your IRS.

Stiffer spring & shocks.

The next big problem is the frame itself, the kickup area is weak, again making things stiffer will more firmly plant your tires.

The bottom line is, flex = bad, rigid = good.
 
spring mount to frame. You have to welde the 2 tabs to the underside of the frame.
 
Thanks guys, I have spherical rod end strut rods, Bilstien sport shocks[the firm ones], Guldstrands aluminum sombrero bushings, urethane end link rubbers, and narrowed my rr spring an inch which stiffened the spring up a surprising amount. I have seen that trac bar set up before. Any experience? How about a solid pinion bushing keeping in mind one would have to pay attention to the drive line angle.
Thanks again, Frank.
 
Of course, all that stiffening is a tradeoff. You car will ride and rattle like a truck. :bounce:
If you need to rigidly mount your differential, then forget all the Mickey Mouse kits. You are gonna need a SOLID AXLE to really rigidly mount the rear axle. This is not a slushbox car...it's a stick. All the fixes for autos go out the window with a clutch. Traction bars are VERY effective...on LEAF SPRING cars like a 1969 Nova or Camaro. The only traction bars I've ever seen work on coil spring cars are long ladder bars. And as I said....the ride turned to shit.
 
It will not rattle like a truck, if it does there's something wrong with your suspension. Sloppy bushings are the cause of rattles and poor handling, they do not give you a smooth ride, not at all.
 
It will not rattle like a truck, if it does there's something wrong with your suspension. Sloppy bushings are the cause of rattles and poor handling, they do not give you a smooth ride, not at all.

Then you have never ridden in a truly stiff suspension. :skeptic:
 
It will not rattle like a truck, if it does there's something wrong with your suspension. Sloppy bushings are the cause of rattles and poor handling, they do not give you a smooth ride, not at all.

Then you have never ridden in a truly stiff suspension. :skeptic:

Oh, you mean like in a empty large Army truck??? or a empty dump truck??

:yahoo::yahoo::noob:
 
Leaveing from a full stop, the wheel spin is non eventful but sometimes in process of showing off occasionally I'll do a rolling burn out using the clutch from 10mph or so at which time I experience some wheel hop. I have pretty sticky tires, KDW's. What would be the cure for this? A pinion snubber [which the Corvette sorta has anyway] fixes live axle cars but with IRS I fear I might need a solution at the wheels. Does anyone have any idea's or experiences? 1965 Corvette.

Thanks guys, I have spherical rod end strut rods, Bilstien sport shocks[the firm ones], Guldstrands aluminum sombrero bushings, urethane end link rubbers, and narrowed my rr spring an inch which stiffened the spring up a surprising amount. I have seen that trac bar set up before. Any experience? How about a solid pinion bushing keeping in mind one would have to pay attention to the drive line angle.
Thanks again, Frank.

You solve this yet? I have the same exact experience with mine except I have BF Goodrock TA tires. From a standstill at higher RPMS, no hop...but at a rolling in first at about 10mph and low rpm's...spin and some hop. (BB with M20)

I have the crossmember locating disks and a rubber diff mount bushing. I was going to put in a poly bushing to see if that helps. I saw that in Gulstrands locating kit, there is a third smaller diameter disk. I guess this goes to the diff mount somehow. Anyone using this small disk?

http://www.guldstrand.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=122
 
Sorry smokin', I don't think I have solved it. I do have the solid snubber bushing as well. I called Dick G and asked him about it - told him I have all solid bushings and asked him if he thought that traction bar from the diff that you sometimes see would do any good. He said probably not but the trailing arm bushings may be weak. I know that they are next to new so........?[rubber]
I do have solid bushings everywhere possible - including rear sway bar.
As you may have seen in a different post I am replacing my frame at this time. At that time I may try these: http://www.guldstrand.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=105 or these: http://www.guldstrand.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=104
I'm glad you brought it up while I've takin' stuff apart,
Frank
 
I like those toe adjustment screws. Was thinking of those at one point, but didn't go for it.

I am probably going to put in that poly bushing to see if that helps...if not, I may look at a traction bar. I found an old link over there on a traction bar from Tom's. Looks much better than the VBP one.
 
Hey Smokin', I honestly don't think that diff traction bar would do much, the diff is pretty solidly mounted any way. I was all set to build one until I spoke to Gulstrand. I now tend to suspect the trailing arm bushings. The toe adjusting screws have that added benifit of the the bushings being solid. As I see it the problem is wrap up at the wheel like conventional live axels. Poly bushings at the trailing arm may help.
Frank
 
IMO poly bushings are a bad idea for the trailing arm (and the struts also) because the movement is not axial, it swings from side to side too. Get the johnny joints, best of all worlds.
 
It may be simply not enough hp/tq to keep the tires spinning. I know when I drag race my '68 vert (street tires) if I don't leave the line at about 3k, it will bog and sometimes wheel-hop.
 
I have fresh rubber bushings all the way around. The only place I have poly right now is the motor/trans mounts....and in the near future, the diff mount.

Traction bar will have to wait anyway's since I never learned to weld...but I have a freind willing to help.

I'm pulling 530+tqe at 3400rpm. Don' know what the curve looks like below that. I have no bog whatsoever anywhere/anytime I hammer it.....just likes to hop and spin up the rpms from a slow roll...BTW, it doesn't allways do it. Hammered it from a slow roll just this afternoon and it spun all the way to 5000 rpm without hop b4 I let off:bonkers:

What about the BF GR TA's? Could those be the problem depending on the road?
 
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