Dead battery , jumpstart, crank sensor code

MYBAD79

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Now this might be some valuable info for LS1, LS2 etc owners....

The battery in my C6 was dead last week, I wasn't surprised since that battery is about 4 years old and the car had been sittingbfor three weeks.... so I jumpstarted the car and drove it almost 100 miles that day, everything was ok.

Two days ago I had to jumpstart it again so I thought no big deal, jumpstart it and drive it over to the store and get a new battery.... Well, not that easy....

Jumpstarted it and it ran very rough. Tach was not working in either the dash and the HUD.... Drove the car and nticed it would not rev past (guessing) 3000rpm, misfired a few times .... Went back home and read the codes: P0335 and 0336 crank position sensor. At this time I'm thinking oh shit this is going to be expensive...

Read a few things on the net about this, amazing how much bad info is out there:
"you cannot jumpstart a LS1"
"it's ok to jumpstart but you have to go to the dealer so that they can re-programm the computer"
"When you install a new crank sensor you have to re-program the computer"
"Low battery will destroy the crank sensor"

And more such nonsense.....

Just put a new battery in there 20 minutes ago, car runs perfectly fine again.....

:1st::1st::beer:
 
Take your DVM in the current mode, and measure the draw on the battery with everything turned off and NO LIGHTS ON.....I bet it's over 20 milliamps... .020 amps.....if it is, you need pull fuses in the box until you find which circuit it is when the current drops to not over 20 mills, you I have fixed two trucks for that BS.....

:shocking:
 
There is no abnormal draw, the battery was just old and did not hold a charge.... With my new battery it's running perfectly fine.
Main reason I posted this is that somebody may be starting to replace crank position sensors for no reason....

Here's the scenario again: dead battery.... So what? Jumpstart the car, gauge shows 13+ Volts so alternator is doing what it's supposed to do.... Why would anyone suspect that a bad battery could cause two trouble codes and the engine to misfire and run rough ???
 
There is no abnormal draw, the battery was just old and did not hold a charge.... With my new battery it's running perfectly fine.
Main reason I posted this is that somebody may be starting to replace crank position sensors for no reason....

Here's the scenario again: dead battery.... So what? Jumpstart the car, gauge shows 13+ Volts so alternator is doing what it's supposed to do.... Why would anyone suspect that a bad battery could cause two trouble codes and the engine to misfire and run rough ???

I dunno did a scan on a~15 y/o Dodge van and replaced the CPS to fix some hard start/crappy running problems.....van had other issues though....
I would be very pair of noid about battery drain, batteries USED to live some 6+ years which is why I have been buying marine deep cycle batteries these daze, not only cheaper, but more in tune with all this electronic crap....

:clobbered::cussing:
 
There is no abnormal draw, the battery was just old and did not hold a charge.... With my new battery it's running perfectly fine.
Main reason I posted this is that somebody may be starting to replace crank position sensors for no reason....

Here's the scenario again: dead battery.... So what? Jumpstart the car, gauge shows 13+ Volts so alternator is doing what it's supposed to do.... Why would anyone suspect that a bad battery could cause two trouble codes and the engine to misfire and run rough ???

I'll confess I'm rather curious what's going on in the ECM that it "decided" that the crank sensor wasn't operating correctly.
 
There is no abnormal draw, the battery was just old and did not hold a charge.... With my new battery it's running perfectly fine.
Main reason I posted this is that somebody may be starting to replace crank position sensors for no reason....

Here's the scenario again: dead battery.... So what? Jumpstart the car, gauge shows 13+ Volts so alternator is doing what it's supposed to do.... Why would anyone suspect that a bad battery could cause two trouble codes and the engine to misfire and run rough ???

I'll confess I'm rather curious what's going on in the ECM that it "decided" that the crank sensor wasn't operating correctly.

CPS was nothing but a coil on that Dodge....measured it and sure enough no continuity.......have to be some radical mechanical failure if coil was good....

:clobbered:
 
I'll confess I'm rather curious what's going on in the ECM that it "decided" that the crank sensor wasn't operating correctly.

The only thing that makes "somewhat" sense to me is that this ties into the alarm system.... Maybe.... When the alarm system is on and a "thief" disconnects or destroys the battery the engine won't run very good ????

Seriously: the way it ran with that bad battery no way I could have outrun a air-cooled beetle with a stock 1200cc engine....... :clobbered:
 
Drove it again for another 60+ miles..... If this ever happens to you, just buy a new battery and call it good...... No need to reprogramm anything, no magic involved.....
If you DO have a bad battery, yes, it will run like drap but the new battery will fix it......

For those who did the LSX conversion: with our older cars it's quiet normal that thay sit for a few weeks or months.... If you encounter these symptoms don't go running to the dealer buying a new computer......:3rd:
 
My experience, based on probably fourty years of owning Corvettes where I didn't drive them everyday. Cliff Notes of my experience. If you have a lead acid battery that goes dead, get ride of it. I've read that a brand new lead acid battery, if you allow it to go completely dead, it will immediately loose 30% of it's capacity. If it's an older battery, it's loss of of capacity will be much more. I do admit that for many years, just giving a battery a toss was no problem...I think then a new premium battery for many years was about $70 to $90. No more. They are now up in the $150+ dollar range. I have battery tenders for my Corvettes to make sure they don't discharge..

The reason I'm hard over on dead batteries. If I drive my 68 or 08 somewhere, when I go to start the engine, I want a lot of normal battery power. It' just terribly embarrassing to be on a Corvette club run and have a car with a dead battery.
 
It has been my experience in the last 10 years that batteries will die without warning. It used to be that you could tell they were tired but no more. It's almost like they are pre programmed to shut off after 48 months.
 
About 8 years ago, at start of the motor home project, I finally figgered out something.....being THAT DEEP CYCLE batteries rated for marine/MH use were in fact cheaper than the typical auto battery.....

and I found that walmart was cheaper than the parts houses.....

and that the Deep Cycle marine batteries sold there last longer and set longer without failure or slo cranking than the typical auto battery.....

the vette starts quickly after a week of setting, the motor home did fine after a month or more, the silly Ford Focus does fine with it's 24 series marine battery.....After witnessing all this BS with modern batteries.....methinks I found at least a temporary way out.....screw the EPA......

:smash::twitch:
 
It has been my experience in the last 10 years that batteries will die without warning. It used to be that you could tell they were tired but no more. It's almost like they are pre programmed to shut off after 48 months.


yet somehow the original factory installed batteries seems to last a lot longer, we have an 07 Grand Prix that AGM battery lasted from late 06 or 07 (I don`t know when the car was built) until December 2013, I did not replace it with another AGM battery.
 
My Duralast Autozone battery lasted 4years in the FL heat and not very frequent use.... Not too bad ....

I remembere in my Camaro my Interstate battery lasted from 2001 to some time 2007 or so, unfortunately it is much more convenient to go to the 'zone' than drive across town to a Interstate shop.... They have great batteries but not many places where you can buy one.

This time around I did go the extra mile(s) and got a new Interstate battery, to my surprise it was about the same price as Autozone ($130) with a 3yr replacement/6yr pro rated warranty.
 
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