Brake rotors, not 15k miles ground up....

mrvette

Phantom of the Opera
Joined
Mar 24, 2008
Messages
15,207
Location
NE Florida
Vette been making some brake noises recently, but seldom driven and not high speeds....lots of traffic, rotors not but ~5 years old.....really loud grinding, pulled the wheels, and sure enough the INSIDE surface of both rotors are all ground out, but the outer edges of the pads have full thickness, the damage on the right rotor is worse must have lost 1/8" of metal can see it on the outer edge, pad on that surface has most of the liner visible......go figger...

other side is better, but rotor is shot.....

bought new pads hoping for best but now I have a hell of a quandry....

all sorts of posts about China crap rotors/castings/metallurgy and so I bought these rotors from NAPA, 35 bux each....they said the castings were China but the machine work was American, that they owned the machine shop.....:club::rolleyes:

So went to the local O'Reilly's and their rotors are made in China, flat out....

and So looks as If I screwed either way....hate to wait a week....taking a chance on whatever from where ever.....

BTW, O ring and DOT5 fluid, no leaks in evidence....have HB on it, the pistons leave some slight drag on the rotor, spun it by hand even with the messed up surface, didn't see inordinate to me.....rough as a cob though....


Anyone any advice as to WTF to do now?? I bolted the wheels back on, at least it's driveable at lo speed, and don't pull.....
 
I'm not sure I understand... Your rotors are worn on the inside but the pads are fine?
I've bought plenty of China AutoZone rotors and never had an issue with those, currently I have Ebay drilled/slotted rotors on my C3 ...

If you buy rotors and ads from the Zone or Rockauto that dhould be good for another 60k miles at least , the pads should wear first ....
 
I'm not sure I understand... Your rotors are worn on the inside but the pads are fine?
I've bought plenty of China AutoZone rotors and never had an issue with those, currently I have Ebay drilled/slotted rotors on my C3 ...

If you buy rotors and ads from the Zone or Rockauto that dhould be good for another 60k miles at least , the pads should wear first ....

I not meaning the pads are new, just plenty of padding on the outer edge, I did not pull the pads to look everything over, as knowing the rotors are shot, WTF, why bother?? I have had some rotors setting in the garage, I finally remembered....and out of the 4 , 3 are in usable shape, so two are going on the front, I"m hoping these are old American from production daze the rivet hole look like they had rivets in there once.....:amazed:
 
YUP, Sky65/Tom....you got it, same thing but much worse.....

anyone any clue as to HOW those stupid O ring pistons CAN cock over like that, makes NO sense to me....

Yeh, I can rub them around by hand, BUT under residual/drag pressures, how in hell they do that??

:hissyfit::ill:
 
YUP, Sky65/Tom....you got it, same thing but much worse.....

anyone any clue as to HOW those stupid O ring pistons CAN cock over like that, makes NO sense to me....

Yeh, I can rub them around by hand, BUT under residual/drag pressures, how in hell they do that??

:hissyfit::ill:
I had this at all four wheels. I couldn't believe it. I installed the calipers, pads and rotors all together new. I sent the calipers back to VBP to check and they had no explanation. I have never figured it out. The only thing I see is the pistons are very short. If the pads wear on an angle, for whatever reason, there is nothing to square up the pistons. The pads will just continue to wear that way. In changed over to Wilwoods. They use a square cut round seal that sits in a groove on the caliper bore and a longer SS piston slides in the bore and seal. Not saying I think there is anything wrong with the stock design. I just like the newer design of the Wilwoods better.

Tom
 
Just a thought, check your brackets. I tore up the front brakes and hub for a stud upgrade and make j56 brackets. The old stamped steel bracket wasn't very good, so I'm replacing it. Even the new one isn't too overly impressive, but it is stamped steel. My solution is to use a dial indicator and machine the j56 bracket to get every thing lined up.
 
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