82 Headlight Switch

Dirtbuster1

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Joined
May 13, 2008
Messages
649
Location
Georgia
Has anyone ever seen a headlight switch start smoking. Today I turned my parking lights on, and after a while smoke starts coming out from my speaker grill. I pulled over and unhooked the battery to be on the safe side. Looked around for the source of the smoke. I couldn't find any burnt wires, but the headlight switch knob was hot. I hooked the battery back up & got home. The plug that connects to the switch had gotton hot & was smoldering. I have never seen this before. No blown fuses or burnt wires. Has anyone ever heard of something like this before?
 
Has anyone ever seen a headlight switch start smoking. Today I turned my parking lights on, and after a while smoke starts coming out from my speaker grill. I pulled over and unhooked the battery to be on the safe side. Looked around for the source of the smoke. I couldn't find any burnt wires, but the headlight switch knob was hot. I hooked the battery back up & got home. The plug that connects to the switch had gotton hot & was smoldering. I have never seen this before. No blown fuses or burnt wires. Has anyone ever heard of something like this before?

Actually, yes. The rheostat gets hot when the dash lights are turned down low, or the contacts get hot because the headlight load is borderline adequate. That's why some guys do the relay deal for the headlights. I never dim the dash lights.
A search will show at least 2 fires I have read before. I am sure there are more.
 
Is it do to an old switch, or poor design? Do you have more about the relay and what is need. Should I replace the white part of the plug that is burnt or not?

Thanks

Herb
 
As usual, Bird is on the money. Another thing that happens is the terminals get a little dirty or tarnished due to age. That causes a higher resistance. resistance causes heat. Heat causes--- the list goes on.

If it's not cooked too bad, you may be able to use the connector, but I would look REAL close at the terminals in there. And then make sure the terminals all stay in place when you plug in the switch.
 
Tim,

Sorry I couldn't make it down to see you. Looks like you all had a good time. The plug looks good, I am just a little reluctant to use it again. I might call Lectric Limited to see if they sell new ones. I will have to wait on a new switch anyway.

Thanks

Herb
 
It would have been great if you could have made it. The more the merrier.. But that's OK- it's only a matter of time before I spend some time in Atlanta (again). We can just round up some of the vette guys from the Atlanta area and do it again..

Tim
 
Seen 2 cars almost catch fire due to the HL switch, Xander's HL switch started smoking seconds after the battery was hooked up
 
It looks like just jumpering the terminals "F" and "L" on the switch together would shunt out the rheostat and solve the dimmer heat problem easily.
 
That's what we did since X has leds for all the illumination bulbs, no sense in using the rheostat.
 
It looks like just jumpering the terminals "F" and "L" on the switch together would shunt out the rheostat and solve the dimmer heat problem easily.
I like the sound of that. I have a C4 switch anyway for the electric pop-up's but I have LED's to install when I pull the dash apart. Good call Jeff :thumbs:
 
I asked and Xander says he didn't jumper the terminals, he says he repinned the connector to bypass the rheostat
 
It looks like just jumpering the terminals "F" and "L" on the switch together would shunt out the rheostat and solve the dimmer heat problem easily.


Jeff,

Which terminals are the F & L ? I think as TT said, that bypassing it should eliminate the problem. If that is the case, could I reuse the one I have?
 
I think they're marked on the switch under the connector- look at the switch and you should be able to figure out which terminals to shunt to bypass the rheostat too.
 
It looks like just jumpering the terminals "F" and "L" on the switch together would shunt out the rheostat and solve the dimmer heat problem easily.


Jeff,

Which terminals are the F & L ? I think as TT said, that bypassing it should eliminate the problem. If that is the case, could I reuse the one I have?

Look on the switch. They are marked. Just tying F to L with a #14 wire should do the same thing. You could also take two of those trailer wire type pressure connectors, and tie the two wires that go to F and L. 567 3M?
 
I think they're marked on the switch under the connector- look at the switch and you should be able to figure out which terminals to shunt to bypass the rheostat too.

Yes. Darrow has a switch, but is on vacation. I'll see if I can dig up a picture of the term side.
 
I can't see to much on the ols switch. The new one should be in by Thursday at the latest. I will take a look at it when it comes in.

Thanks
 
Jeff,

Here are some pictures of my old headlight switch. I just took it apart with a screwdriver. If you need more pics I have it in a plastic bag. The new switch gives the instrument panel alot more light. Now my overhead switch setting works also.

Thanks

Herb

25248e56b0aece48.jpg

25248e56b09e1475.jpg

25248e56b08d209c.jpg
 
Thank you Herb. Clearly, you can see the rheostat has overheated.
Sadly, I feel that although that design was "relatively" safe in a "metal" dash, it was a sad oversight by GM to install it on a combustable surface like the Vette dashboard.
 
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