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  #21  
Old 06-27-2017, 11:48 AM
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I have started on the R&P setup, not being the most patient customer I already dread that job !! Anyway..

Reading from other forum posts ,making notes and copying with no shame good ideas, I did this, a rig to give more resistance when turning the R&P and improving the marking of the pattern on the teeth.
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So then I started.
I use the original pinion shim of .025 and the pinion preload is quite free like 7 Inch/lbs.
.229 shim on the left and .2385 on the right
Back lash of .006 to .0065 , and this is kind of my first reading.

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And on the another part of the ring
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Now.... I thing that on the drive the contact is not bad, but on the coast I am a bit lost here !! Too low maybe ? Not enough back lash ?

If Gary can join the party, I will be more than happy.
Thanks in advance.
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  #22  
Old 06-28-2017, 02:57 AM
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GTR1999 GTR1999 is offline
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That is very interesting to see how you are loading the RG. I made a simple tool that bolts into the yoke and I can apply and vary the loading while patterning.

Whose gears are you using? I didn't go back to see where and what you. 025 shim is thin for GM gears but could be right for aftermarket. Looking at your Crown Gear it appears to be a 2 cut gears, the obvious sign is the teeth are equal in height at the toe and heel. These tend to show a diagonal pattern as apposed to the 5 cut tapered gear pattern of a equal length footprint. If you have 2 cut get the pattern centered on the teeth. You can find more info online about the 2 cuts.
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  #23  
Old 06-28-2017, 03:13 AM
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Hello Gary,
This R&P is a factory GM, set by a PO and never been used for years, just sat fitted to the car until I opened it up for a check and found no oil in it , hence replacing all bearings and checking the pattern who looked weird to me.
And by comparing your pictures with mine shows a huge difference.

Last edited by OZgreen69; 06-28-2017 at 03:20 AM..
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  #24  
Old 06-28-2017, 03:16 AM
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All right ,I understand better about the cut now. This explain the pattern then.
Would you think that having it a bit higher will be better?
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  #25  
Old 06-28-2017, 03:27 AM
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I made the yellow paste a bit thicker and opened the backlash slightly.

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Well?!
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  #26  
Old 06-28-2017, 08:18 AM
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This is the marking on the ring gear
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Gary, can you please confirm if it is a 2 cut ?
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And after a .0045 back lash. I cannot really move the pattern on the teeth and staying inside the recommended 2 cut BL .
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Tomorrow, I'll fit the new bearing on the pinion and setup the correct preload.
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  #27  
Old 06-28-2017, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTR1999 View Post
I don't know about that. I'll stick with the NOS ones I have.
Post 71.

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Sales pitch maybe from vendor, or big leap in technology. Anyone buying their kit no has no other option.

Sorry for the thread hijack Oz. For what it's worth Dennys Driveshaft book had a lot of pattern info. I think he had a section on setting up used gears as well.
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  #28  
Old 06-28-2017, 04:09 PM
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There is a lot on that thread geared toward sales. In the old days we called it BS but that isn't correct anymore. Buyer beware is all I can offer.
The cut gears are track proven for 50 years.
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  #29  
Old 06-28-2017, 04:14 PM
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The date code is 9/1973 so they should be 5 cut but the teeth appear equal- it just be my viewpoint. Drive is deep. Coast on the toe. If you can't get better adjustment and those are 5 cut I wouldn't use them.
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  #30  
Old 06-28-2017, 08:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GTR1999 View Post
There is a lot on that thread geared toward sales. In the old days we called it BS but that isn't correct anymore. Buyer beware is all I can offer.
The cut gears are track proven for 50 years.
Yeah, I read powedered gears were less desirable when I looked, but who knows times/technology changes.
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