Go Back   VetteMOD.com > VetteMOD Workshop > Restoration Techniques

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 12-29-2009, 12:05 AM
phantomjock's Avatar
phantomjock phantomjock is offline
United States | Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Retired Again!
Posts: 1,084
My Photos: (554)
Thumbs up Por-15 Chassis

I have recently completed a POR-15 treatment of my chassis (a couple of months ago).

There are some very specific directions - you really outta follow -- inspite of extra cost, time, and efffort. I'll summarize -- This will be a long post - you can go to their web site and get more details.

1. I sanded/ground off the crud from 30 years of use and road junk. I was happy to get that off.




2. Then, I cleaned it with a bunch of cleaners to get the grease and undercoating off that was fouling up my sanding pads. Maybe shoulda done that first (DOOH!)

3. Then I used the POR-15 "Marine Clean." I was surpised how well this cleaned -- even after I had cleand in Step 2 above. Timing and Rinse per direstions.



4. The next step is to use the POR-15 "Metal Prep." There are specific directions here too, keeping it wet with the solution, don't let it dry, etc.

5. Then the first coat of POR-15 is ready to be applied. Read the directions -- stir, brush, and ... just follow the directions. I was very suprised and pleased with the results. It went on well, and leveled between coats. Looked as good as sprayed. Yes, a second coat, was applied -- as per directions, when the first was past "tack" state, no fingerprint -- about 3 hours in my case.



6. Then, I put on a top coat -- used the Blackcoat - a high gloss. This followed coat #2 of POR-15 in about 3 hours too. I was impressed with the gloss - and looking for the UV properties it has and the base POR-15 doesn't. It used significantly less than the second coat of the base and even less still, from the first base coat. BUT - it had a tendancy to run, sag, and take some extra care in getting a good finish.



SO, If you haven't followed their directions -- I'd say all bets are off. NOW, I have -drop tested the finish from 3 feet to the garage floor. -- Not intended -- but --SHIT happens.

NO damage, no chips, scratches etc. Mind you it had cured only a week at the time.

Its not powder - Its maybe 1/3 or more less the cost of powder -- so money left over and a durable finish -- where you paint it.



This was not intended to be an advert for the product -- just a reminder of the prep work required for the product -- and a satisified customer -- so far. I normally am not this anal in following directions -- but its a big project -- and don't want to GIVL it up!

Surprisingly, the POR-15 site shows the same types of demos a powdercoat operatior will often show you. Take a finished product - bang it until it dents - and show it doesn't peal, chip, or scratch.

BTW -- just did the Calipers, Bright Red -- NICE.

And, I did the fuel tank a month ago. I was a bit unsatisified with the results (the looks) of the POR-15 Sterling Silver -- It has a high metal content -- and a brush application leaves a lot to be desired. I'd save the silver for smaller piece I think -- or as accent (like fuel tank) that is sorta hidden, in final reassembly. To do a spray app requires a lot of gear - I'd go with a hooded vented, yada, yada set up -- so -- on the cheap -- I went with the brush. Don't get it on you -- if you do and let it dry - get out the sand paper - that'll get it off yer skin!


Cheers - Jim
__________________
Rebuilder's Zen Saying:
One thought leads to another. If these thoughts link into a chain we become bound to the project. This bondage is subtle and remains until we complete the tasks -- or, STOP Thinking!
[Only registered and activated users can see links. Click Here To Register...]
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-29-2009, 01:46 AM
elevatordude's Avatar
elevatordude elevatordude is offline
United States | Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Palmer, Ma.
Posts: 335
My Photos: (0)
Default

I did mine the same way but I did spray the frame and I made sure to clean the gun really good when I was done.

__________________
You can't fix stupid!
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-29-2009, 02:35 AM
phantomjock's Avatar
phantomjock phantomjock is offline
United States | Addict
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Retired Again!
Posts: 1,084
My Photos: (554)
Default

Dude - you'll NEVER get that shit off the wall! Maybe do the rest of the garage???
Doubles as Waterproofing too!

Wish I had a compressor and gun both. Maybe have to toss the gun when done if not cleaned real good.

Cheers - Jim
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-29-2009, 04:04 AM
elevatordude's Avatar
elevatordude elevatordude is offline
United States | Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Palmer, Ma.
Posts: 335
My Photos: (0)
Default

I'm going to paint the whole garage when the car is done and like I said the gun was cleaned REALLY well. Now for the paint I got on my hands it took a week to get it all off.

Last edited by elevatordude; 12-30-2009 at 12:58 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-30-2009, 12:51 PM
big2bird's Avatar
big2bird big2bird is offline
United States | Charter Member
Founder Bird-Run
Cruise-In Bird-Run 1 Veteran
Cruise-In Bird-Run 2 Veteran
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Anaheim, Ca.
Posts: 6,256
My Photos: (342)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by elevatordude View Post
I'm going to paint the whole garage when the car is done and like I said the gun was cleaned REALLY well. Now for the paint I got on my hands it took a week to get it all off.
Yep. That stuff sticks to skin like no tomarrow. Maybe we should coat the frames with skin as primer.
__________________
I can make your dizzy. Really, I can.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-30-2009, 01:43 PM
mrvette's Avatar
mrvette mrvette is offline
United States | Phantom of the Opera
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: NE Florida
Posts: 15,281
My Photos: (3)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by big2bird View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by elevatordude View Post
I'm going to paint the whole garage when the car is done and like I said the gun was cleaned REALLY well. Now for the paint I got on my hands it took a week to get it all off.
Yep. That stuff sticks to skin like no tomarrow. Maybe we should coat the frames with skin as primer.
Seems that EVERY car exacts it's pound of flesh.....
__________________
"Hell, there are no rules here ... we're trying to accomplish something." Thomas Edison
I have a little list, let ALL of them be MIST......
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-10-2010, 03:56 PM
Red Red is offline
United States | Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Space Coast, Gator Territory
Posts: 409
My Photos: (0)
Default

Nice Job! I painted my 79 frame with POR-15 in gloss black about three years ago. I followed your basic process, but only used one coat of POR gloss black. It has since cleaned well, has not peeled and still looks as good as new. I am anal about cleaning the underside and suspension. I also did my fuel tank with the silver and was very pleased with the result. It all looks as good as powder IMO. The silver does have some darker metallic streaking, but with the gloss finish looks great IMO. I even painted my rusty fuel lines silver to look great and arrest the rust. Generally, I was very pleased with the POR product.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-17-2010, 05:24 PM
keywestjack's Avatar
keywestjack keywestjack is offline
Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 258
My Photos: (0)
Default

The drying time depends on the temp and moisture content in the air. I learned the hard way about getting it on skin I put it on my C4 and just recently on my C3 chassis. My one tip if you are going to take your time and do bits and pieces then buy it in the six pack. The cans are smaller but you don't have to worry about wasting what is left in the can. Seems once open there is the really is no real effective reseal.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-18-2010, 05:11 AM
Red Red is offline
United States | Addict
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Space Coast, Gator Territory
Posts: 409
My Photos: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by keywestjack View Post
The drying time depends on the temp and moisture content in the air. I learned the hard way about getting it on skin I put it on my C4 and just recently on my C3 chassis. My one tip if you are going to take your time and do bits and pieces then buy it in the six pack. The cans are smaller but you don't have to worry about wasting what is left in the can. Seems once open there is the really is no real effective reseal.
I have used POR 15 for many projects and found the shelf life after opening can be extended if you close the lid on top of a sheet of plastic wrap. This is true of any paint, it helps improve the seal and prevents rusting of the lid and makes re-opening easier. After sealing the lid on the can, it goes into the refrigerator. I have three cans of paint in my refrigerator right now, but I'm also not married any longer. Doing this has kept an open can of POR last several months, but that depends on how much has been used from the can. I hope this observation helps!

BTW...if the can content skins over, don't toss the remaining paint. I have peeled the POR skin back and used the remaining paint with good results. I don't have deep pockets and need to make every drop count. Everyone won't agree with that, so I say do what you gotta do!

Last edited by Red; 01-18-2010 at 05:17 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-18-2010, 01:27 PM
keywestjack's Avatar
keywestjack keywestjack is offline
Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 258
My Photos: (0)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red View Post
After sealing the lid on the can, it goes into the refrigerator. I have three cans of paint in my refrigerator right now, but I'm also not married any longer. Doing this has kept an open can of POR last several months, but that depends on how much has been used from the can.
Where do you keep your beer... I will try your suggestion, any savings can help. Thanks Jack
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 01:13 AM.
 


Design by: vBulletin Skins Zone
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.