C3 Front suspension

at the very very least, new bushings, proper shocks, stiffer springs, howe tall ball joints.
 
You could put on a coilover system-like I'm doing- It's sort of a compromise but it's a bolt on. Some have complained about loading all the front end weight on the stock shock mount- but I haven't heard of any failures.

DSCN0812.jpg

Then there's the semi-coil over system- That I'm less fond of-but it's also less in price-uses stock a-arms....

Richard
P1010663-1.jpg
 
Here's the list so far:
1) Poly bushings throughout
2) 1 1/8 anti-roll bar
3) Bilstein shocks
4) stock springs - cut a least a coil, probably 1 1/2 coils. I'm not sure I am sold on the advice I got on this, but this advice has the benefit of not costing me anything, so I'll roll with it.
5) weld up the lower mount plate - I don't know what the PO was doing, but he or she should be banned from owning another welder
6) VBP tubular upper control arms
7) brace between upper control arms

oh and when I get off my lazy a$$ and figure out what the spline count is between the steering column and the steering box, I'll replace the rag joint with a u-joint

Howe tall joints... like the stuff the roundy-round guys use?

and to be clear - I have a trustable friend who's pointing me in the right direction; however, while it may appear it looks like I know what I'm doing - trust me, it's just an illusion :)
 
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SBG -
You might do a price compare between the VB&P UCAs and SPCs UCAs. Call Mark Savitske and see if he'll give you a price break too. He also carries the Howe tall BJs.

Cheers - Jim
 
I just put on Van Steel lowers and SPC uppers. You have to fab a travel limited with the SPC arms. Also put on the tall Howe upper ball joints. That and the rack and pinion and it it a lot better to drive.
 
rtj said:
I just put on Van Steel lowers and SPC uppers. You have to fab a travel limited with the SPC arms. Also put on the tall Howe upper ball joints. That and the rack and pinion and it it a lot better to drive.
Click to expand...

IMO, the stock steering ratio has to go, because 3.7 turns L/R is ok on bias ply tires for 1963, but you get modern rubber on there, you need quicker steering....two ways to get it, one is the simpler Jeep/Borgeson conversion, and the other is a Grand Am Rack, which is what I did ten years ago....
both options give you 2.7 turns R/L .....

:drink:
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
phantomjock said:
SBG -
You might do a price compare between the VB&P UCAs and SPCs UCAs. Call Mark Savitske and see if he'll give you a price break too. He also carries the Howe tall BJs.

Cheers - Jim
Click to expand...

VB&P - $349, Savitske - $584 for comparable arms.
Click to expand...

I just ordered a set of the SPC upper arms from Mark at Savitske to replace my VBP Upper arms.

Delrin bushings, 4340 Chromoly cross shafts, Howe tall balljoints, and the pro-lite adjustment arms. I think it will be a nice upgrade over the VB&P arms. Lighter, better balljoints, better geometry and easier to change alignment settings.

My VBP upper arms will be for sale if you are interested
 
redvetracr said:
I`m curious, how does anyone know which taller Howe ball joints are the best to use, they make a few different lengths?
Click to expand...

That I curious about is what it would take for a machine shop to make a stem extender?? screw the joint into a tapered rod assy, use LOCKtite Red on the threads, and have the new rod fit into the control arm?? how simple is THAT?....NO? why not??:evil:
 
vette427sbc said:
SuperBuickGuy said:
phantomjock said:
SBG -
You might do a price compare between the VB&P UCAs and SPCs UCAs. Call Mark Savitske and see if he'll give you a price break too. He also carries the Howe tall BJs.

Cheers - Jim
Click to expand...

VB&P - $349, Savitske - $584 for comparable arms.
Click to expand...

I just ordered a set of the SPC upper arms from Mark at Savitske to replace my VBP Upper arms.

Delrin bushings, 4340 Chromoly cross shafts, Howe tall balljoints, and the pro-lite adjustment arms. I think it will be a nice upgrade over the VB&P arms. Lighter, better balljoints, better geometry and easier to change alignment settings.

My VBP upper arms will be for sale if you are interested
Click to expand...

I would be except I ordered the new and improved version of the VBP arms :banghead:

now that the head banging is done, the new arms have 8* of caster that can be adjusted it - all without slots.

I read the bit about the grand am steering, and that really does interest me - however, that bit will have to wait for the next round of upgrades.
 
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mrvette said:
redvetracr said:
I`m curious, how does anyone know which taller Howe ball joints are the best to use, they make a few different lengths?
Click to expand...

That I curious about is what it would take for a machine shop to make a stem extender?? screw the joint into a tapered rod assy, use LOCKtite Red on the threads, and have the new rod fit into the control arm?? how simple is THAT?....NO? why not??:evil:
Click to expand...

the extended, tested, ball joints are $85.00 each - so 170 a pair.... automotive machinists are not easy to come by up here, so I'd expect to be charged at least that to have some machined out (here's where it'd be great to have someone volunteer to teach me how to do inside taper joints on my enco lathe :huh:
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
mrvette said:
redvetracr said:
I`m curious, how does anyone know which taller Howe ball joints are the best to use, they make a few different lengths?
Click to expand...

That I curious about is what it would take for a machine shop to make a stem extender?? screw the joint into a tapered rod assy, use LOCKtite Red on the threads, and have the new rod fit into the control arm?? how simple is THAT?....NO? why not??:evil:
Click to expand...

the extended, tested, ball joints are $85.00 each - so 170 a pair.... automotive machinists are not easy to come by up here, so I'd expect to be charged at least that to have some machined out (here's where it'd be great to have someone volunteer to teach me how to do inside taper joints on my enco lathe :huh:
Click to expand...

It took me a while with some leads from other shops, but I finally located a shop here that had the correct taper tools to make a adapter for my rack to the stock tie rod ends....and of course adapted/fit perfectly, I would much rather have stock tie rod ends than the aftermarket heim joints most guys use....street durability and so to be easy greased....

and too boot I didn't have to buy/wait for heim joints...

:thumbs:
 
redvetracr said:
I`m curious, how does anyone know which taller Howe ball joints are the best to use, they make a few different lengths?
Click to expand...

I searched around and found a thread somewhere saying 0.5 to 1 inch. I went with the longest howe which I think is 0.9".

They come unassembled but their FAQ provides instructions.
 
rtj said:
redvetracr said:
I`m curious, how does anyone know which taller Howe ball joints are the best to use, they make a few different lengths?
Click to expand...

I searched around and found a thread somewhere saying 0.5 to 1 inch. I went with the longest howe which I think is 0.9".

They come unassembled but their FAQ provides instructions.
Click to expand...


I just wish someone (who knew WTF he was talking about) would explain what the point of a longer ball joint was.....
 
Get the tallest one. It moves the angle of the upper arm so that it moves the IC from the undersirable outboard to an inboard position. Roll center will be above ground isntead of below, camber will gain negative. The stock geometry does not.

If you have pics off Klutts car, I'm willig to bet they either modified the spindle or moved the upper arm cross shaft a little lower.
 
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