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  #1611  
Old 10-14-2021, 02:31 AM
bazza6977 bazza6977 is offline
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1 'down' 3 to go... one thing I did realize is I'll not be gluing the door post in place... where the skin is level with the flare has quite a gap in the middle of the door/flare.... ah well, fiberglass makes a good gap filler
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I'm at this point with my flares from the same place , I have the same problem with a gap in the middle , by gap I mean its sitting out from the door pillar , about 1/4 of an inch on passenger side and wider on the drivers side . If I push hard it will close in , but it takes too much force and I think there could be problems later . I too have an aftermarket new tail light panel(not CIC) so lining up all 3 to fit well in the back leaves me with this . The top part of my flare panels are just overhanging the door gap as well , but its seems the only way at this point .I haven't glued anything yet.

Just interested in seeing what you ended up doing to get yours on.
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  #1612  
Old 10-14-2021, 02:44 PM
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SuperBuickGuy SuperBuickGuy is offline
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post





1 'down' 3 to go... one thing I did realize is I'll not be gluing the door post in place... where the skin is level with the flare has quite a gap in the middle of the door/flare.... ah well, fiberglass makes a good gap filler
[Only registered and activated users can see links. Click Here To Register...]

​​​​​​​
I'm at this point with my flares from the same place , I have the same problem with a gap in the middle , by gap I mean its sitting out from the door pillar , about 1/4 of an inch on passenger side and wider on the drivers side . If I push hard it will close in , but it takes too much force and I think there could be problems later . I too have an aftermarket new tail light panel(not CIC) so lining up all 3 to fit well in the back leaves me with this . The top part of my flare panels are just overhanging the door gap as well , but its seems the only way at this point .I haven't glued anything yet.

Just interested in seeing what you ended up doing to get yours on.
it wasn't easy. Do you have the wheels you plan on running on the car? everything lines up off that - because the flares are pretty thin, you can use heat to get it to relax enough to move. Outside of that, I had to cut the flare from the rest of the fender and move it forward on the front to get everything to line up. If you're having too much trouble getting the curve right, you may have to section the flare to get it right..... also, contacting Josh at CIC for tips is available.... while I have some annoyance at my situation, I think he does his best and is quite helpful
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  #1613  
Old 10-15-2021, 09:11 PM
bazza6977 bazza6977 is offline
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
it wasn't easy. Do you have the wheels you plan on running on the car? everything lines up off that - because the flares are pretty thin, you can use heat to get it to relax enough to move. Outside of that, I had to cut the flare from the rest of the fender and move it forward on the front to get everything to line up. If you're having too much trouble getting the curve right, you may have to section the flare to get it right..... also, contacting Josh at CIC for tips is available.... while I have some annoyance at my situation, I think he does his best and is quite helpful
Well , I have the rear tyres and a device called a "wheel fit " which is an adjustable bracket which clamps onto the tyre and is bolted to the hub , but is adjustable . (so you can get the right backspace and offset you need ). I haven't got wheels yet as I still have to do this to the front.

Anyway the tyres fit really nice on the back as is. Only worry for me is suspension travel (settle) between now and when its all back together .My suspension is unloaded now so I set it at full low (transverse spring at rear ) I have a heavy rated new one coming from Vansteel soon , I got it shortened and its supposed to be about 480lb . Motor ,g/box ,doors (loaded) , empty fuel tank are on the car now.

I tried a heat gun on the offcuts , but I think I overdone it in a too small an area . It just fractured everything as I tried to bend . I will play around a bit with that again on some wider off cuts . Thanks for the advice .
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  #1614  
Old 10-15-2021, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bazza6977 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
it wasn't easy. Do you have the wheels you plan on running on the car? everything lines up off that - because the flares are pretty thin, you can use heat to get it to relax enough to move. Outside of that, I had to cut the flare from the rest of the fender and move it forward on the front to get everything to line up. If you're having too much trouble getting the curve right, you may have to section the flare to get it right..... also, contacting Josh at CIC for tips is available.... while I have some annoyance at my situation, I think he does his best and is quite helpful
Well , I have the rear tyres and a device called a "wheel fit " which is an adjustable bracket which clamps onto the tyre and is bolted to the hub , but is adjustable . (so you can get the right backspace and offset you need ). I haven't got wheels yet as I still have to do this to the front.

Anyway the tyres fit really nice on the back as is. Only worry for me is suspension travel (settle) between now and when its all back together .My suspension is unloaded now so I set it at full low (transverse spring at rear ) I have a heavy rated new one coming from Vansteel soon , I got it shortened and its supposed to be about 480lb . Motor ,g/box ,doors (loaded) , empty fuel tank are on the car now.

I tried a heat gun on the offcuts , but I think I overdone it in a too small an area . It just fractured everything as I tried to bend . I will play around a bit with that again on some wider off cuts . Thanks for the advice .
Fiberglass (or glass for that matter) never stops moving, granted, it's slow - but heat and time does let gravity affect it. I'm not sure I'd use a heat gun, I used a radiant heat dish and let it 'cook' for awhile.... probably never got above 100* but it did move.

but keep in mind, I didn't have to move it much, I was more concerned that it relaxed into the shape I screwed it into.... I use sheet metal zip screws to hold it in place then aim my radiant heat dishes at them for a day. Once 'done' I could remove the screws and it'd hold its shape.
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  #1615  
Old 10-17-2021, 08:51 PM
bazza6977 bazza6977 is offline
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
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Originally Posted by bazza6977 View Post
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Originally Posted by SuperBuickGuy View Post
it wasn't easy. Do you have the wheels you plan on running on the car? everything lines up off that - because the flares are pretty thin, you can use heat to get it to relax enough to move. Outside of that, I had to cut the flare from the rest of the fender and move it forward on the front to get everything to line up. If you're having too much trouble getting the curve right, you may have to section the flare to get it right..... also, contacting Josh at CIC for tips is available.... while I have some annoyance at my situation, I think he does his best and is quite helpful
Well , I have the rear tyres and a device called a "wheel fit " which is an adjustable bracket which clamps onto the tyre and is bolted to the hub , but is adjustable . (so you can get the right backspace and offset you need ). I haven't got wheels yet as I still have to do this to the front.

Anyway the tyres fit really nice on the back as is. Only worry for me is suspension travel (settle) between now and when its all back together .My suspension is unloaded now so I set it at full low (transverse spring at rear ) I have a heavy rated new one coming from Vansteel soon , I got it shortened and its supposed to be about 480lb . Motor ,g/box ,doors (loaded) , empty fuel tank are on the car now.

I tried a heat gun on the offcuts , but I think I overdone it in a too small an area . It just fractured everything as I tried to bend . I will play around a bit with that again on some wider off cuts . Thanks for the advice .
Fiberglass (or glass for that matter) never stops moving, granted, it's slow - but heat and time does let gravity affect it. I'm not sure I'd use a heat gun, I used a radiant heat dish and let it 'cook' for awhile.... probably never got above 100* but it did move.

but keep in mind, I didn't have to move it much, I was more concerned that it relaxed into the shape I screwed it into.... I use sheet metal zip screws to hold it in place then aim my radiant heat dishes at them for a day. Once 'done' I could remove the screws and it'd hold its shape.
If the radiant heat dish is like what they use in a paint booth ,I might be able to borrow one and see how I go on some off cuts first . Thanks for the tips .
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  #1616  
Old 10-18-2021, 04:49 AM
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​Finally back on this

pull the shifter off


fluid looks perfect!

wonder what I'll do with trans next...

and hooks

basically they attach to the prior spring mounts....



wrapped the hook with stainless rod - basically it adds a lot of strength

bit of cleanup tomorrow and paint them "please hook here not on a headlight red"
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  #1617  
Old 10-18-2021, 10:43 PM
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bobs77vet bobs77vet is offline
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are those tow hooks for strapping the car down?

very nice
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  #1618  
Old Yesterday, 05:18 AM
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cleaned up

now with paint

installed

rear matching

for sale

first problem... the cross member is simply in the way

I could have got the trans in/out without removing it but that would be a real problem on race day since it'd mean moving the motor

now it's not a problem

first issue... a bit of massaging and it's fine now

time to set angles before building the cross member

a bit of envisioning going on

it does fit really well, I have no trouble cutting the floor - which solves the issue of whether or not I need a special shifter
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  #1619  
Old Yesterday, 03:18 PM
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nice
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  #1620  
Old Today, 05:14 AM
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SuperBuickGuy SuperBuickGuy is offline
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measuring for the driveshaft.... and disassemblyedited

and make a CAD for reassembling the cross member.
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