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My VBP rear strut bushings decomposed. Makes me wonder if upper and lower A arm bushings aren't far behind. Anybody know if the VBP box type upper and lower (as in transverse spring) A arms take the stock bushings or are they proprietary?

Since batteries are maintenance free nowadays, how do you vent them in the OEM compartments? I plan on mounting a remote starter solenoid in the rear compartment.

My waterpump was held on by only three fasteners--two bolts and one stud. Are there two studs (one on each side) or is the combo three bolts and one stud? Obviously a small block. Thanks!

On the bottom edge of the cylinder, there's a notch. If you look between the lifter bores, there looks like a scribe mark that is inline with the notches. Are these notches common? My block was checked by dye penetrate/magnaflux to be OK.

Received my block back from a local machine shop, highly recommended by chevy guys. After reading Grumpy's tech article on sealants, I was weary when orange RTV was seen on my rear NPT. Sure enough, pulled the plugs and the sealant disintegrated into gobs inside the galleys from the machine...

I'm installing a B&M TransKit; the whole thing is torn down to parade rest. Just how important is going to a 34 roller sprag/drum? Is the $400 for parts justified behind only a slightly built 350 SBC?

...what color the astro-vent block off plates are (back of convertible interior)? Exterior color, interior, black, ???

The AIM just shows where they go; how are these attached? Adhesive or nuts? It's a '75.

...supposed to be here (where the fingers are sticking out)? It's located upper driver's side firewall/fender junction. As a reference, that yellow thing is the hood release. Thanks.

No, its not a name of a band. PO told me the odometer didn't work. When I removed the trip odometer, the regular odometer functions great when the speedometer is driven by a drill (50-60MPH). I ordered a new AC/Delco odometer and it sticks worse than the original when turned with the fingers...

Does this combination work without a lot of hammering?

Got 'em yesterday. I initially ordered a set of Edelbrock RPM, but when they arrived, I didn't see anything spectacular about the combustion chamber (Jegs catalog claims dual quench); so I sent them back and ordered these. Although not cnc, its a great looking cc--The spark plug can't get much...

in my dreams... This is a slow project:banghead:, but at least the inside of the hood is finished!:yahoo:

Anybody have one of these? I remember trying to fit one to my small block MoPar years ago, but the springs buckled the middle of the tray from no support; so I scraped it. Does the SBC middle valley area (above the cam) support the middle of this tray?

I ordered studs for SBC w/windage tray. The OEM tray uses only three studs (on the mains). The kit includes 5 long studs; where do the other 2 go? Thanks OEM: ARP:

What am I doing wrong here? The top of the hinge is flush with the fenderline; the mounting flange on the hood is about an inch below the fenderline. This is how my AIM shows to install it. And no, I don't want the ram-air effect, only a proper fitting hood.:rolleyes:

I'm going w/2500 RPM stall. Was considering the Holeshot, since I'm doing a TransKit (TH400), but don't know beans about TCI, Hughes, etc. Make me smart; what's your preference and why? Thanks (350SBC 10:1, 272-284 adv dur, 3.73)

...for all the ground connections and fuze junctions? What brand do you prefer and why? Is it the same as "bulb grease?" Thanks.

Filled in the gas cap indent w/epoxy filler, then milled with a sander for the '72emblems. The originals are somewhat scratched but not faded. Anyone that wants them (free, just shipping costs), PM. They're a pretty penny for new ones.

Much talk lately of SMC, poly resins, glass products, etc; this is what I use. Some of my co-workers build boats and swear by this stuff. Myself, I figure if it can withstand salt water, UV, pounding of the waves, hot, cold, hurricanes, etc; it should be cake walk for a vette. The 403 filler...