Backfire. timing and cold or something else?

B

BlackRat

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Mar 27, 2008
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Ok now I am just gunshy and paranoid. I fired the car up today for the first time since no oil pressure. I heard no knocks, grinding , banging or any other bad mechanical noises. What I did get was some back firing out of the right side. I did not have a chance to get the motor warm because the oil filter did not seal (yet another set back). Did the backfiring occur because it had not gotten warm and I was just close enough on the timing after reinstalling the distributor to get it to crank? Something else? I did check the valves and they were all set the same as they had been for about the last year. So this tells me I don't have a valve train problem. Was it just cold and out of time?

On the oil filter issue. For some reason the filter is not sealing to the block with the old stock bypass adapter installed. Is that peice supposed to have a gasket between it and the block? I never had one before. I have tried 2 oil filters and neither has sealed. The leak is in the same location each time so that leads me to beleive that the oil filter adapter is not installed correctly somehow.

Thanks
Wade
 
Your timing is off/180* out. No gasket on the filter adapter. The pad where the oil filter contacts might be nicked. You ARE going 1 full turn past gasket contact I assume.
 
big2bird said:
Your timing is off/180* out. No gasket on the filter adapter. The pad where the oil filter contacts might be nicked. You ARE going 1 full turn past gasket contact I assume.
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It would not run if it were 180 out would it?? The motor runs. I dropped the distributor in on the compression stroke of #1 cylinder and the rotor pointed at the #1 tower.
 
BlackRat said:
big2bird said:
Your timing is off/180* out. No gasket on the filter adapter. The pad where the oil filter contacts might be nicked. You ARE going 1 full turn past gasket contact I assume.
Click to expand...

It would not run if it were 180 out would it?? The motor runs. I dropped the distributor in on the compression stroke of #1 cylinder and the rotor pointed at the #1 tower.
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Easy enough to check once you get her running. Just follow Lars tuning paper, and your good to go.
 
Check the firing order too. A certain party that shall remain nameless had a couple of wires crossed- that 383 snorted like :censored:
 
Thanks guys I will check the plug wires again. Someone had mentioned fouled plugs or flooding. I would think that that is definately possible as it took a while to get it running. It has always been very cold natured, especially after sitting for a long time.

Right now I have a floor full of kitty litter to soak up the 2 qts of oil that got pumped out. Once that is done i am pulling the filter and the stock bypass adapter off and replacing with the O-ring fitted adapter I used before. That part was not the culprit last time. It was the sandwich adapter and my own stupidity that appears to have caused the no OP issue.:hissyfit: Hopefully when I do this the oil filter will seal as it is supposed to. If not.....:surrender:
 
At least you know you're pumping oil!!:clap: Sounds like the filter isn't going all the way up to the block, you might check the adapter one more time that's really the only thing that would stop the filter from contacting the block.
 
Engine is running. No leaks, rattles, or internal noises. I am still getting a backfire through the exhaust. I did not have time to get it up to operating temperature before my lunch hour ended. I have back fired through the carb numerous times. Would a blown power valve cause a rough idle and back firing???

Thanks
Wade
 
If you have a Holley that was built after about 1992, it should have the check ball built in, and I think All Demon carbs have it too.

Blown power valve will cause rough idle and the exhaust will stink-- way rich,
 
TimAT said:
If you have a Holley that was built after about 1992, it should have the check ball built in, and I think All Demon carbs have it too.

Blown power valve will cause rough idle and the exhaust will stink-- way rich,
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Thanks Tim. It is a Mighty Demon carb and it is running pretty rich at the moment. I have had a set of E3 plugs for a while that I have been meaning to put in. I am going to do that this weekend. I also have a new 4.5 PV to go in the carb.

here is something that is a little concerning. When I cranked the motor I had almost 70psi oil pressure. After a couple minutes of running at Idle (950rpm's) The oil pressure leveled out at 25 PSI. Now this is the new mechanical guage so this is the first time I have ever used it and seen a reading. The electrical guage used to register 60-70 on start up and then level out in the 30-40 range. The electrical guage is not working right now so I can't compare. But this OP seems low. I am running royal Purple 10w30. Thoughts?

Also does anyone have a comparison pic of a fouled plug v a non fouled plug??
 
25 PSI at idle is no deal. watch the gauge as RPM goes up- oil pressure should rise too. I get 30-35 at idle and it'll jump to 70.

With your setup, plugs will die and look fine, If I want to keep Red on his toes, it's plugs all the time. Enough I could own stock in a plug company. It's not as bad as it used to be- the Demon and the ignition box seems to help.

If you pull the plugs and they look nasty, they probably are. No experience with those e3 plugs- I've been using Autolite. Only plug I've found with a cheap price, 3/4 reach a 5/8 hex and a gasket seat that's close to the right heat range. I'd probably try something else, but don't want to spend $5 a plug and find they're no better than the ones I've been using'
 
TimAT said:
25 PSI at idle is no deal. watch the gauge as RPM goes up- oil pressure should rise too. I get 30-35 at idle and it'll jump to 70.

With your setup, plugs will die and look fine, If I want to keep Red on his toes, it's plugs all the time. Enough I could own stock in a plug company. It's not as bad as it used to be- the Demon and the ignition box seems to help.

If you pull the plugs and they look nasty, they probably are. No experience with those e3 plugs- I've been using Autolite. Only plug I've found with a cheap price, 3/4 reach a 5/8 hex and a gasket seat that's close to the right heat range. I'd probably try something else, but don't want to spend $5 a plug and find they're no better than the ones I've been using'
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They are all pretty black. Not the tannish color of a cleaner burn. The engineering behind the E3's seems pretty sound. It seems to eliminate the need to index since the electrode is completely unshrouded. I figured I would use them once and see what happens.

I will hold off on the PV change untill after I get the timing worked out as best as possible. I need to sto making so many chages at once. You would think I would know better than this being a software enginner!!!!:nuts:
 
That was it!! Plugs must have been shot. Installed new plugs in it and it fired right up! The throttle had a quick response and no backfiring through the exhaust!!!!! I let it run in the driveway for 15 minutes. No leaks,knocks or back fires. OP stayed around 40 and temps around 185.:clap:
 
TimAT said:
It's about damn time! Wearing ME out waiting for you to get done...:thumbs::phone:
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Hehehehe got to keep you guys on your toes. If you can help me figure out what I screwed up you c an figure out anything!!:clap::thumbs:
 
BlackRat said:
TimAT said:
It's about damn time! Wearing ME out waiting for you to get done...:thumbs::phone:
Click to expand...

Hehehehe got to keep you guys on your toes. If you can help me figure out what I screwed up you c an figure out anything!!:clap::thumbs:
Click to expand...

Tim's good enough to figger out jet planes, and transmissions,

and suffer through 5000 phone calls over my tranny....

:clap::smash::surrender::thumbs:
 
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