Arthur Brown
Well-known member
it runs for another second or two after turning off the ignition. Timing or a carburetor problem ??
it runs for another second or two after turning off the ignition. Timing or a carburetor problem ??
it runs for another second or two after turning off the ignition. Timing or a carburetor problem ??
Thanks a lot for your replies, much appreciated. I'll try 93 octane gas and a slightly lower idle first. If that does not help I'll pull the spark plugs. When I pull the plugs, what am I looking for?
This is damn usefull, if not already, this should be in the tech section. Will definitely help me troubleshoot this greasy exhaust port problem I'm having.Thanks a lot for your replies, much appreciated. I'll try 93 octane gas and a slightly lower idle first. If that does not help I'll pull the spark plugs. When I pull the plugs, what am I looking for?
This article has a chart for reading plugs.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/sprkplg2.htm
it runs for another second or two after turning off the ignition. Timing or a carburetor problem ??
it runs for another second or two after turning off the ignition. Timing or a carburetor problem ??
With the ignition off, it doesn't seem like it could be due to a timing problem. As I recall, engine run-on, was a problem with the mid-1970 cars due to smog provisions. I't think that the engine run-on is due to a too lean condition. At any rate the engine continues to run since it is essentially running like a Diesel engine. The early smog controls would soot up the spark plugs, so I think glowing carbon was the culprit behind run-on. I can remember using a tactic to kill an engine that continued to run after turning off the ignition: put the brake on, put the car in Drive, and step on the gas....that'd kill the engine. The reason I mentioned "in Drive" was that this run-on condition, as I recall, was worse with an automatic transmissions. With a manual, putting the brake on and shifting to first gear would quickly kill the engine.
to the lowest possible idle speed (about 400 rpm). This will solve the run-on problem.
From an old thread.
Here's a response that Lars gave on another forum:
Re: Deiseling at shut-off, lots of smoke at start-up...Need Help... (Double_0_7)
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Dieseling at shut-down is most commonly caused by idle speed too high. Drop your idle speed down just a tad, and it will solve the problem. If your car is equipped with the idle-up solenoid, be sure the idle speed is set with the solenoid, and that the idle speed screw on the carb is set to the lowest possible idle speed (about 400 rpm). This will solve the run-on problem.
Timing won't cause run-on, since the timing is off when the problem occurs. Just set your idle speed down to the lowest comfortable level, and make sure your idle mixture is not too rich. Run-on was a common problem in the mid-70's, and GM actually issued a Service Bulletin telling the dealers to lower the idle speed...
From an old thread.
Here's a response that Lars gave on another forum:
Re: Deiseling at shut-off, lots of smoke at start-up...Need Help... (Double_0_7)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dieseling at shut-down is most commonly caused by idle speed too high. Drop your idle speed down just a tad, and it will solve the problem. If your car is equipped with the idle-up solenoid, be sure the idle speed is set with the solenoid, and that the idle speed screw on the carb is set to the lowest possible idle speed (about 400 rpm). This will solve the run-on problem.
Timing won't cause run-on, since the timing is off when the problem occurs. Just set your idle speed down to the lowest comfortable level, and make sure your idle mixture is not too rich. Run-on was a common problem in the mid-70's, and GM actually issued a Service Bulletin telling the dealers to lower the idle speed...