Heim Joints, Tie Rod Ends

Jsup

Jsup

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2008
Messages
810
I'm going to drop my rear shortly, and when I do, I am going to replace the rear suspension with a 10 link upgrade for the IRS.

1990 Corvette, going from a D36 to a D44. Typical IRS for these cars.

These 10 links require that I purchase Heim Joints, total 20.

The car should put 450-475 to the wheels when all is said and done.

I note that Heim Joints run from $3 each to $22 each. Other than being Teflon coated, what else are the differences between these joints. HO much do I need to spend to get ones that will do the job with some headroom? Do I NEED $22 joints or can I use $8 ones? Remember again. I NEED 20 OF THEM!

Thanks.
 
Jsup said:
I'm going to drop my rear shortly, and when I do, I am going to replace the rear suspension with a 10 link upgrade for the IRS.

1990 Corvette, going from a D36 to a D44. Typical IRS for these cars.

These 10 links require that I purchase Heim Joints, total 20.

The car should put 450-475 to the wheels when all is said and done.

I note that Heim Joints run from $3 each to $22 each. Other than being Teflon coated, what else are the differences between these joints. HO much do I need to spend to get ones that will do the job with some headroom? Do I NEED $22 joints or can I use $8 ones? Remember again. I NEED 20 OF THEM!

Thanks.
Click to expand...


your high end of $22 sounds cheap for a quality rod end, the difference in quality is the load they can safely handle...I`m assuming they are 5/8 x 5/8?
 
I'm getting the specs tomorrow. Looking at them yes about that. Can't tell for sure.

20X22=$440. That's a lot of cash right now for ends.

Here's some that are $5 each.

Here's some "high strength" $11 each.

They are easy enough to replace if the break.

THe QA-1s are $22 each, and up.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/QA1-_c_125.html

$40 each here:

http://www.jerrybickel.com/aurora-rod-ends-and-jam-nuts/4130-chromoly-rod-ends-1.html

Cheaper
http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Midwest-Control-_c_126.html

This is for REAR suspension, less stress. What will work?

I'm not racing, street and occasional street use.
 
Been doing more searching. The Chro-mo ones are more expensive, I would go Chro-mo for strength. This is getting expensive fast.
 
redvetracr said:
I would go with the XM series from QA-1, Lefthander chassis has them for $20.49...
Click to expand...

Cool. What would you think if I went with these for the lateral, could I get away with something cheaper on the parallel rods on the side?

I can upgrade them later. I'm thinking the lateral ones take far more abuse.

Again, $20X20= divorce.

$20 for a chro-mo piece isn't bad. Many are $30 and up.
 
Here is a manufacturer that supplies a lot of the resellers.
Used to sell from their website.
They also have all the load specs available if you know what you need.

http://www.midwestcontrol.com/


If not, Speedway has the moly in 5/8 and 3/4 at good prices.
Also the seals.
 
The XM's (@ $20.49) at Lefhander are the best deal I have seen. There is a company called Racing Rod Ends (or something like that), that has cheap chrome-moly rod ends but I called them and can't really get a straight answer about what brand they are. The only thing they say is that they are equal to Aurora or QA1.
 
big2bird said:
redvetracr said:
I would go with the XM series from QA-1, Lefthander chassis has them for $20.49...
Click to expand...

Voice of experience. Doing it right the first time=less money in the long run.
Click to expand...

I have the same experience. Two things I try to live by:

1. There's a high cost to being cheap. God I know that one well.
2. THere's never time to do it right, but there is always time to do it over.

Just my experience.

So I'm not looking for the CHEAPEST way out. I am asking that if a $20 part will do it, why order a $50 part. Not even considering a $6 part.
 
Jsup said:
big2bird said:
redvetracr said:
I would go with the XM series from QA-1, Lefthander chassis has them for $20.49...
Click to expand...

Voice of experience. Doing it right the first time=less money in the long run.
Click to expand...

I have the same experience. Two things I try to live by:

1. There's a high cost to being cheap. God I know that one well.
2. THere's never time to do it right, but there is always time to do it over.

Just my experience.

So I'm not looking for the CHEAPEST way out. I am asking that if a $20 part will do it, why order a $50 part. Not even considering a $6 part.
Click to expand...

'TUDE meet Dude, same attitude........:shocking::yahoo:
 
If you do run rod ends, use these seals from Speedway Motors. They are a high quality neoprene. I am using them thruout my car. The first year the grease was gone soon and they wore quickly. I installed these seals and they're still all slimy like they should be.
 

Attachments

  • 91001500_L.jpg
    91001500_L.jpg
    21 KB · Views: 6
00fxd said:
If you do run rod ends, use these seals from Speedway Motors. They are a high quality neoprene. I am using them thruout my car. The first year the grease was gone soon and they wore quickly. I installed these seals and they're still all slimy like they should be.
Click to expand...

Thanks, great advice. What did those joints run? I re counted, I need 22. Sigh.
 
I don't remember where I bought them but I know I bought decent ones, probably speedway motors. I don't have 22 tho, probably 10 or so.
 
The seals are from seals it, just in case you want to try and get them somewhere else.
 
BBShark said:
The XM's (@ $20.49) at Lefhander are the best deal I have seen. There is a company called Racing Rod Ends (or something like that), that has cheap chrome-moly rod ends but I called them and can't really get a straight answer about what brand they are. The only thing they say is that they are equal to Aurora or QA1.
Click to expand...


If they had someone on staff that could speak Chinese he could tell you what brand and where they were made....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top