rzkas
Well-known member
it dust/dirty particle. no holes or chips.
hood problem
- Thread starter rzkas
- Start date
rzkas
Well-known member
Hi, i will like to am sorry for not posting the pics early. i was away for a while . i am back. here are the pics that you asked me to take. pls go to my photobucket and click on corvette update pics. i did some measure of the hood space with the hood up. between wiper from one end to the other is 44-7/8", behind the carb like carb and distributor is 42-5/8" and by the shroud is 39-1/2" and the front is 37-1/2". the top ends of the hood itself is 45-1/4". you can the measure tape on some pics. thanks
pls help me fix this problem.
for all pics, pls go to photobucket , under library click on corvette update pic for the new pics.
pls help me fix this problem.
for all pics, pls go to photobucket , under library click on corvette update pic for the new pics.
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,579
the "pile of rust" is simply a stack of hinge shims, nothing special
the problem is, that hood is a POS and will never firt right without at least cutting it up and seriously reworking it.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk
the problem is, that hood is a POS and will never firt right without at least cutting it up and seriously reworking it.
Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk
redvetracr
Well-known member
the problem is, that hood is a POS and will never firt right without at least cutting it up and seriously reworking it.
/QUOTE]
I have this factory hood off an 80 available...$200+ shipping
MYBAD79
Moderator
the fender to door gaps are bad too. I am not convinced that the hood is the problem.
I just went to the garage and tried to get some measurement on my '79 but there's really no good way to measure.... I tried to find a way to measure the relation between the center and the side of the front surround.
I think the easiest way is to run a string across the car (clothline) and level that with a waterlevel .... then measure from the string down to the front surround, once at center and then at both corners of the hood....
.
I just went to the garage and tried to get some measurement on my '79 but there's really no good way to measure.... I tried to find a way to measure the relation between the center and the side of the front surround.
I think the easiest way is to run a string across the car (clothline) and level that with a waterlevel .... then measure from the string down to the front surround, once at center and then at both corners of the hood....
.
rzkas
Well-known member
i never knew it takes this much work to restore a car and plus i guess i worked with the wrong body/paint shop. my friends and brother pls help me. are there any adjustment points to adjust the nose and fenders. i kinda have a feeling like someone took of the nose and did not put it back correctly. i might be wrong also. help
anyone knows a good shop in Everett, Lynnwood Washington that i can take my car.
anyone knows a good shop in Everett, Lynnwood Washington that i can take my car.
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Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,579
Yes, the nose has a rod in the middle, you may be able to tweak it a little but it will not get rid of that gap as the shapes are not even matching up. Did you ever check if the header bar just in front of the hood has seperated?
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I didn't realize you were near me.... PM me - let's talk
I'm in Woodinville - and I go up to Everett pretty often
DeeVeeEight
Fast Pedalphile
Ya' gotta love this forum. This is exactly what makes it great.
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
That hood alignment thing is interesting to a new vette friend here, he has bought a '80? and so has the same problem with the cowling higher than the hood....in the middle...same as shown above, and so maybe this weekend we tearing down a 200 4r for his car.....and so to maybe he sign on and look for his solutions here on this thread.....
And MY car had had just the opposite alignment problems, so I put a strut between my header and the lower steel , but in this case, I am open ears....
:bonkers:
And MY car had had just the opposite alignment problems, so I put a strut between my header and the lower steel , but in this case, I am open ears....
:bonkers:
MYBAD79
Moderator
rzkas
Well-known member
Hi? can someone pls take measurement of their 80, 81, 82 corvette hood space. i need side to side or side by side dimension of open hood bay. fender to fender. thanks
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
where? it tapers to the windshield...
68/70Vette
Well-known member
The inner wheel fender wells are bonded to the front quarter panels (the nose shell). If the inner fender wells are not correctly positioned before bonding, the hood will never fit correctly. The reason the hood will never fit correctly is because the hood pivot brackets are bolted to the inner wheel fender well pieces. To do it correctly, I think the procedure is, before bonding, to bolt the hood to the inner wheel fender wells, and then move the inner fender wells up and down, back and forth, until the hood exactly matches the nose. Then bond the inner fender wells.
When I bought my 68 Corvette, it had a terrible repair job, and the hood, like in the pictures was grossly out of position. The front clip was removed, the inner wheel fender wells removed, and all rebonded. The reason for removing the front clip was to repair other damage.The entire front of the car was a Bondo sculpture. .... Forget what I paid. T Wasn't anything like the anecdote below.
I remember in the mid 1970's an acquaintance was doing a virtually unlimited budget restoration of a 67 Corvette. Before the car was even painted, it was at the body restoration/primer stage, he paid $1500 just to have the hood exactly match the nose. Using Google's inflation calculator, $1500 in 1975 is the equivalent of $6,976 today. Best I can remember, not only did the hood exactly match the front clip, the space between the hood and front clip was something like 1/16 inch.
My sympathy for being at the stage where you've painted the car and now have this gross hood mismatch problem. Seems like the body shop should have been ahead of the ball on this one.
One reason for being very sympathetic, is that astoundingly, I'm at this 68 juncture again!! My 70 Coupe is also a Bondo masterpiece. When I bought it 20 years ago, I just didn't inspect the car that closely. The hood did fit however. When I peeled the onion a few years ago to restore the car, I found that the front clip has been horribly repaired with Bondo and crude fiberglass work. When I removed the radiator bracket, the right side of the front end collapsed and basically cracked in-two!
To do the job correctly, I'm going to have to replace the entire front clip with repro fiberglass. The OEM stuff is no longer available I've been told.
When I bought my 68 Corvette, it had a terrible repair job, and the hood, like in the pictures was grossly out of position. The front clip was removed, the inner wheel fender wells removed, and all rebonded. The reason for removing the front clip was to repair other damage.The entire front of the car was a Bondo sculpture. .... Forget what I paid. T Wasn't anything like the anecdote below.
I remember in the mid 1970's an acquaintance was doing a virtually unlimited budget restoration of a 67 Corvette. Before the car was even painted, it was at the body restoration/primer stage, he paid $1500 just to have the hood exactly match the nose. Using Google's inflation calculator, $1500 in 1975 is the equivalent of $6,976 today. Best I can remember, not only did the hood exactly match the front clip, the space between the hood and front clip was something like 1/16 inch.
My sympathy for being at the stage where you've painted the car and now have this gross hood mismatch problem. Seems like the body shop should have been ahead of the ball on this one.
One reason for being very sympathetic, is that astoundingly, I'm at this 68 juncture again!! My 70 Coupe is also a Bondo masterpiece. When I bought it 20 years ago, I just didn't inspect the car that closely. The hood did fit however. When I peeled the onion a few years ago to restore the car, I found that the front clip has been horribly repaired with Bondo and crude fiberglass work. When I removed the radiator bracket, the right side of the front end collapsed and basically cracked in-two!
To do the job correctly, I'm going to have to replace the entire front clip with repro fiberglass. The OEM stuff is no longer available I've been told.
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rzkas
Well-known member
Hi, new pic for you to look at. the center rod where vacumn canister is mounted is not bolted on to the top of the front nose.
JeffP1167
Well-known member
If you need detailed measurements and pictures, I have my 82 out of storage and can get what you need, just let me know what you need.
NO parts are for sale from this car though.
But here is how the hood should have looked from factory.
maximum gaps are at most 1/8th inch
NO parts are for sale from this car though.
But here is how the hood should have looked from factory.
maximum gaps are at most 1/8th inch
SuperBuickGuy
Well-known member
I've now looked at this Corvette... was kind of waiting for Matt to post some pictures, but I understand why he hasn't.... the short of the story is - the body shop rip him off.
the list
The front end isn't on square to the body
the passenger side is low, driver's side is high
They somehow pushed the fenders together at the back (all while having terrible hoods gaps) thus raising that header panel at least 1"
The bodyshop put the scoop on the car, by pop riveting it to the top of the hood and glassing it down .... when they did that, they lowered the radius on the hood (the part that follows the fender bulge) so the point where the fenders are the highest from a flat plane - the hood is an inch below it
The hood has cracks
There is at least 1/2" of shims on the driver's side hinge trying to raise the hood up
As said before the gaps are uneven, and not in any case parallel (don't be silly and ask me which one - none of them are right)
The paint:
He had water in his gun, so there's all sorts of bubbles on the paint that are starting to flake off
Of course, there's tons of orange peel
Their "story"
They said they just "didn't fit the hood".... which, I believe - but they did crappy work - so any argument about not doing a hood fit first is a red herring.
The fix
strip the car, cut the front off the car and reinstall the fenders.
The hood needs to be cut apart again, and the hood scoop installed right
The good - Matt is a heck of a nice guy, the bones of the car are solid, and it runs really well
... too bad the Mexican who did the body work is such a useless turd.
That said, I do cars to keep me sane in my day job (some of you know what that job is and it relates directly to this) - this story will be continued...
the list
The front end isn't on square to the body
the passenger side is low, driver's side is high
They somehow pushed the fenders together at the back (all while having terrible hoods gaps) thus raising that header panel at least 1"
The bodyshop put the scoop on the car, by pop riveting it to the top of the hood and glassing it down .... when they did that, they lowered the radius on the hood (the part that follows the fender bulge) so the point where the fenders are the highest from a flat plane - the hood is an inch below it
The hood has cracks
There is at least 1/2" of shims on the driver's side hinge trying to raise the hood up
As said before the gaps are uneven, and not in any case parallel (don't be silly and ask me which one - none of them are right)
The paint:
He had water in his gun, so there's all sorts of bubbles on the paint that are starting to flake off
Of course, there's tons of orange peel
Their "story"
They said they just "didn't fit the hood".... which, I believe - but they did crappy work - so any argument about not doing a hood fit first is a red herring.
The fix
strip the car, cut the front off the car and reinstall the fenders.
The hood needs to be cut apart again, and the hood scoop installed right
The good - Matt is a heck of a nice guy, the bones of the car are solid, and it runs really well
... too bad the Mexican who did the body work is such a useless turd.
That said, I do cars to keep me sane in my day job (some of you know what that job is and it relates directly to this) - this story will be continued...
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rzkas
Well-known member
Nice write up. thanks for telling the story about my car. i have posted the pictures we took .
denpo
Carburated Nihilist
This definitely sucks, but atleast now you know what's upfront.
Keep the faith!
It's not like you bought such a rusted Corvette you have to redo it from de ground up.
Keep the faith!
It's not like you bought such a rusted Corvette you have to redo it from de ground up.
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,579
That's not all, the complete header panel is loose, you can see it in the last pic he posted, the "flange" you see should be bonded to the body. It has seperated completely. That will make the section in front of the hood sit way high.