How to clean the inside of an engine?

AColbe01

Active member
Joined
Jul 14, 2009
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28
Location
Hattiesburg, MS
Reading in a different thread made me start thinking. NOT SAYING, lack of oil changes caused this! What could be done to clean this up before any parts failure?



Andy


I think you found the source of the miss!
What else would cause every pistons top compression ring to come apart? (other than a shitty engine builder) Pics to follow.

As promised, here are the pics:bonkers:


68014.jpg

This rod bearing had to be close to "spinning"

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Check out the heat spots from the friction

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And the #3 piston:ack:

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You know, looking at the piston in the pic, it looks like the engine was run for 100,000 without an oil change! Looks like lots of sludge and varnish, and carbon build up on the parts. I'm not sure you don't just have an abused engine that had enough!!

Got tired of troubleshooting a miss in the engine of the new project so I just...

68engineout.jpg
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You know the crazy part, about that Camper wifey poo bought for 200 bux, the 350 chebby engine looked like that one on the hook above....

I pulled the valve covers because they leaked like hell all OVER the joint....

stupid engine clean as t left the machine shop inside, tore the front off, and clean as a pin in the water jacket, NO rust.....looked at the radiator, great shape..NEW looking....

go figger, 200 bux....eventually even the damned get lucky...start and run and don't even see smoke out the valve covers, with NO PCV hooked up even....

on the other hand, Tim seen it last trip through here, a Dodge van, engine filthy as hell everywhere, I pulled the heads, short block looks fine, I was shock and awe over it....Tim agreed, two fresh heads, later and some other work thing's on the road just fine....

all I did was take a shop vac and screwdriver to the lifter valley got all the shit outta there, obviously changed oil/filter told stepson to do the same, and it's fine....

:bump: course we talking work trucks now, not some 6000+ rpm hotrod....

:goodevil:
 
The photos indicate that the engine has not only suffered a lack of oil changes, but it has also been overheated and it has been subjected to detonation. The oil changes would not have prevented the overheat and damage to the pistons from detonation, but regular maintenance (checking the timing and checking the fluid levels) might have saved it.

Lars
 
If you accumulate a lot of oil crud (cheap mineral oil) it will eventually turn into oil crud baked onto the valve covers or other surfaces on the block itself.... cleaners like MarvelMystery or even synthetic oils can only do so much... if chunks of this baked on crud plugs an important oil bore the engine is dead.... cleaners do not just dissolve this stuff, they loosen it from whatever the crap is attached to.... it will cause damage...
An engine that has been neglected and is known or suspected to have baked oil crap inside is better to disassemble it before stuff breaks.....
Only if cleaners like MM mystery stuff or Preslone or whatever stuff is used as a preventive measure it can help... once the crap is inside your engine it's not easy to get rid of.... most of these so called cleaners actually clean the engine somewhat, I am worried about the crud that it loosens without getting rid of it... it will hurt when it finally breaks loose and plugs important oil bores...
 
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The photos indicate that the engine has not only suffered a lack of oil changes, but it has also been overheated and it has been subjected to detonation. The oil changes would not have prevented the overheat and damage to the pistons from detonation, but regular maintenance (checking the timing and checking the fluid levels) might have saved it.

Lars
I knew what I was getting into(awful running engine) when I bought it. That's why it was driven from the transporter, up the drive and into the garage. I think the fellow I bought it from bought it like this as well because there is evidence he, as a novice, threw a few things at it trying to determine the culprit of the miss. Brand new Holley carb, three different distributors, old plug wires etc.
 
That picture of the piston is a sure bet on the miss. It's out, apart, it's time to get that block hot tanked- knock all the freeze plugs out, remove all the oil galley plugs and have the cylinders measured BEFORE you go spending any cash on it. Actually, measure the cylinders FIRST! Then you know up front if it's a keeper or not. You can figure out from the bores if it's so far gone you can get a replacement block or want to bore that one. Maybe time to build a 383.
 
A few thoughts…

1) I agree with what has been stated, the engine may very well have been overheated and oil starved. Corvettes are known to corner and accelerate well. During this time people rarely check their oil pressure gauge.

2) Get rid of the FRAM oil filters. There are much better filters. Check this link: http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/opinions.html

3) Get a good oil. http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf Right now I am using Valvoline 20x-50 VR1 Racing oil (high Zinc) Many of the guys I respect run Joe Gibbs oil
 
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