How to Jack-up C3 with Sidepipes?

4 SPEED

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What is the best way to jack up a C3 with sidepipes. Never thought about this until after I installed them.
 
Frame rail, you can jack under the door - I jack mine in the center and there doesn't seem to be an adverse reaction.
 
Frame rail, you can jack under the door - I jack mine in the center and there doesn't seem to be an adverse reaction.

Sorry I wasn't clear.
I jacked her up plenty of times on the frame rail but now the sidepipes are lower then the framerails.
I can't fit my hydraulic jack under the sidepipes.
 
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Frame rail, you can jack under the door - I jack mine in the center and there doesn't seem to be an adverse reaction.

Sorry I wasn't clear.
I jacked her up plenty of times on the frame rail but now the sidepipes are lower then the framerails.
I can't fit my hydraulic jack under the sidepipes.

oh. I tried to jack mine up from the front, under the cross member, but it's too low (even with my low profile jack)... low profile on the side works because you can get up at enough of an angle to avoid hitting the pipes.
 
Frame rail, you can jack under the door - I jack mine in the center and there doesn't seem to be an adverse reaction.

Sorry I wasn't clear.
I jacked her up plenty of times on the frame rail but now the sidepipes are lower then the framerails.
I can't fit my hydraulic jack under the sidepipes.

oh. I tried to jack mine up from the front, under the cross member, but it's too low (even with my low profile jack)... low profile on the side works because you can get up at enough of an angle to avoid hitting the pipes.

I didn't know they make a low profile hydraulic jack.
Where did you get it?
 
I have a Harbor Freight, orange color lo profile steel jack paid like 80 bux for the thing, my 30 y/o Sears leaked like crazy and parts were NLA.....so I always drill/tap a 3/8-16 hole in the cup and bolt a piece of wood to it, latest is a double layer of 3/4 ply about 6" wide and a foot long, good for transmissions, and certainly easy to get the cross support in front, under the harmonica balancer......in the rear, the plywood is too wide to fit between the exhaust pipes, and so I set a 2x4 on edge to catch the rear diffy in the center of the spring......

jack stands in the rear go on the frame near the t-arm mount.....in front I put them under the sway bar frame mounts....

I easy get the car high enough to do auto trans R&R......


:clap:
 
How about a block of metal or hardwood shaped to fit securely in the cradle of your floorjack. I have seen them. You typically have to slide the jack under and then put the block in place.
 
How about a block of metal or hardwood shaped to fit securely in the cradle of your floorjack. I have seen them. You typically have to slide the jack under and then put the block in place.

NOthing against it, but it will cave in the bottom of the front cross support under the engine/suspension, but my 12" long ply being 1.5" think will not...assuming you place it right, of course....my car was bent long before I got it, but at least it's not worse.....:smash:
 
I'm talking under the frame rails--a block about 2 1/2" by 2 1/2" by 3" or so setting in the jack cradle so as to get up to the frame rail without crushing the side pipes.
 
I'm talking under the frame rails--a block about 2 1/2" by 2 1/2" by 3" or so setting in the jack cradle so as to get up to the frame rail without crushing the side pipes.

I really don't understand why you would want to jack your C3 up on the side, like lifting both wheels off the ground, or even up forward or to the rear....why twisting the frame that much, forcing fiberglass/doors/top lids/window glass/etc into some severe twist it would never see on any normal road.....I have always lifted/raised my cars on center front or rear and supported them symmetrically.......

OK maybe on road side, one wheel gets jacked.....bur really now.....:surrender:
 
sounds like the way to go.
your jack really gets that low to the floor?

I don't have side pipes, or a racing jack. But my car is low enough that I have to use two small floor jacks under the frame rails just behind the front fenders to get it up high enough to roll the big floor jack under the air dam, to under the front cross member with a 4x4 block of wood on the cradle to then jack it up high enough to get jack stands or blocks under the frame rails.
In the back, it's pretty much the same and I need a block of wood on the big floor jack to fit between the pipes up to the strut rod bracket. From there it's jack stands/ blocks under the frame rails again.
But if I have anything serious or time consuming to do, I drive it up onto my ramp/block system. I don't like to leave my suspension hanging and from there I can get it 3' off the ground safely & securely. That's illustrated in my 'album' photos.
All a bit time consuming, but I've learned to take my time and be safe since there's nobody around to rescue me if something happens.
 
I'm talking under the frame rails--a block about 2 1/2" by 2 1/2" by 3" or so setting in the jack cradle so as to get up to the frame rail without crushing the side pipes.

I really don't understand why you would want to jack your C3 up on the side, like lifting both wheels off the ground, or even up forward or to the rear....why twisting the frame that much, forcing fiberglass/doors/top lids/window glass/etc into some severe twist it would never see on any normal road.....I have always lifted/raised my cars on center front or rear and supported them symmetrically.......

OK maybe on road side, one wheel gets jacked.....bur really now.....:surrender:

it's like stretching.... it's good for you and them :mobeer:
 
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