grumpyvette
Well-known member
EITHER MIG or TIG welders can do a decent job in the hands of a skilled WELDOR, provided the amps are there to do the job correctly, but I think youll find that the TIG has a slight advantage in that you can control BOTH the heat and filler feed rates independently and change them very quickly as you weld while the mig is set and runs basically at a pre-set feed and heat range, while both the feed and heat are adjustable with a decent mig, they are generally, not as quickly or as finely adjustable because YOUR not in dirrect and instant control.
TIG is similar to oxy-acetolene welding in that you use a filler rod and a heat source, the electric arc replaces the flame and theres a shield gas curtain around the arc, but the process is similar.
mig basically pumps wire, into the weld are where it grounds out, and melts as it leaves the gun,heating the surrounding area and turning into molten metal.
the main differance is you always need to be pumping metal wire to generate heat with a mig and thats not true of the TIG so you can PRE-HEAT or RE-HEAT and area without adding filler wire/rod with a TIG, but NOT with a MIG, so obviously a MIG has a bit more limitations.
MIGS are generally cheaper and faster,& easier to operate, and in most cases do a decent job, but you get a better,deeper weld with a TIG,and you can go back over areas when you need to, if the guy useing it has decent skills and understands the process well.
BTW LOTS of guys use those wire feed FLUX CORE WIRE WELDERS without the ARGON tank and gas shield and refer to them as MIG WELDING... ITS NOT and its a VERY POOR substitute for EVEN MIG WELDING, in the QUALITY of the welds produced
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfOqyqKR0IU[/ame]
http://www.millerwelds.com/education/tech_tips/TIG_tips/
http://www.millerwelds.com/education/tech_tips/MIG_tips/
BTW while it might be (OLD SCHOOL) an OXY-ACETOLENE welder torch and tank set can do a surprising amount of jobs in skilled hands and should not be ignored as a tool, [color:red]
but what ever you buy research it carefully ,first, and buy the best you can afford in name brand equipment, youll be far less likely to get crap that needs to be upgraded or replaced shortly, and the quality of the welds, and the EASE OF WELDING IS effected BY THE EQUIPMENT YOU PURCHASE[/color]
ask questions here....LOTS OF QUESTIONS and don,t relie on a single source for valid info
http://www.htpweld.com/
http://www.welders-direct.com/
http://www.weldingdirect.com/tigtopa2.html
http://www.brwelder.com/indexTemplate.cfm
http://store.cyberweld.com/millerwelders.html
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/forumdisplay.php?f=4
NOW IF YOUVE GOT AN ARC WELDER
arc welding rod info
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"THE TORCH"
WAS NICE ENOUGHT TO POST THIS WELDING ROD INFO
Arc welding electrodes are identified using the A.W.S, (American Welding Society) numbering system and are made in sizes from 1/16 to 5/16 . An The E6011 is not a complete number. It also needs a diameter designation such as "1/8" E6011 electrode."
The rid (electrode) is 1/8" in diameter
The "E" stands for arc welding electrode.
Next will be either a 4 or 5 digit number stamped on the electrode. The first two numbers of a 4 digit number and the first 3 digits of a 5 digit number indicate the minimum tensile strength (in thousands of pounds per square inch) of the weld that the rod will produce, stress relieved. Examples would be as follows:
E60xx would have a tensile strength of 60,000 psi. E110XX would be 110,000 psi
The next to last digit indicates the position the electrode can be used in.
1. Exx1x is for use in all positions
2. Exx2x is for use in flat and horizontal positions
3. Exx3x is for flat welding
The last two digits together, indicate the type of coating on the electrode and the welding current the electrode can be used with. Such as DC straight, (DC -) DC reverse (DC+) or A.C.
* Exx10 DC+ (DC reverse or DCRP) electrode positive.
* Exx11 AC or DC- (DC straight or DCSP) electrode negative.
* Exx12 AC or DC-
* Exx13 AC, DC- or DC+
* Exx14 AC, DC- or DC+
* Exx15 DC+
* Exx16 AC or DC+
* Exx18 AC, DC- or DC+
* Exx20 AC ,DC- or DC+
* Exx24 AC, DC- or DC+
* Exx2711 AC, DC- or DC+
* Exx2811 AC or DC+
So the E6011 has a tensile strength of 60,000psi, can be used in any position and can be used in either AC ot DC- welding. Basically it is a middle of the road welding rod. that can be used by less experienced welders in a variety od situations since it produces a deep penetrating weld and works well on dirty,rusted, or painted metals. A similar rod is the E6010. It produces similar results but can only be used with DC+ or DCRP (DC Reversed Polarity)
Ive been welding for 35 plus years and always asked for and got advice from the local MILLER DEALER,after explaining the welder to be used, the application, etc,then purchased the suggested rods IN BULK packs and never bothered to as what the numbers ment....
never said I was a GREAT weldor, but Ive welded lots of stuff over the years,thats still in use without it breaking,and while its not always the best looking job it STAYS WELDED ...IM working on the LOOKS PART, and the recent MILLER 330 AMP TIG purchase HELPS
TIG is similar to oxy-acetolene welding in that you use a filler rod and a heat source, the electric arc replaces the flame and theres a shield gas curtain around the arc, but the process is similar.
mig basically pumps wire, into the weld are where it grounds out, and melts as it leaves the gun,heating the surrounding area and turning into molten metal.
the main differance is you always need to be pumping metal wire to generate heat with a mig and thats not true of the TIG so you can PRE-HEAT or RE-HEAT and area without adding filler wire/rod with a TIG, but NOT with a MIG, so obviously a MIG has a bit more limitations.
MIGS are generally cheaper and faster,& easier to operate, and in most cases do a decent job, but you get a better,deeper weld with a TIG,and you can go back over areas when you need to, if the guy useing it has decent skills and understands the process well.
BTW LOTS of guys use those wire feed FLUX CORE WIRE WELDERS without the ARGON tank and gas shield and refer to them as MIG WELDING... ITS NOT and its a VERY POOR substitute for EVEN MIG WELDING, in the QUALITY of the welds produced
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfOqyqKR0IU[/ame]
http://www.millerwelds.com/education/tech_tips/TIG_tips/
http://www.millerwelds.com/education/tech_tips/MIG_tips/
BTW while it might be (OLD SCHOOL) an OXY-ACETOLENE welder torch and tank set can do a surprising amount of jobs in skilled hands and should not be ignored as a tool, [color:red]
but what ever you buy research it carefully ,first, and buy the best you can afford in name brand equipment, youll be far less likely to get crap that needs to be upgraded or replaced shortly, and the quality of the welds, and the EASE OF WELDING IS effected BY THE EQUIPMENT YOU PURCHASE[/color]
ask questions here....LOTS OF QUESTIONS and don,t relie on a single source for valid info
http://www.htpweld.com/
http://www.welders-direct.com/
http://www.weldingdirect.com/tigtopa2.html
http://www.brwelder.com/indexTemplate.cfm
http://store.cyberweld.com/millerwelders.html
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/forumdisplay.php?f=4
NOW IF YOUVE GOT AN ARC WELDER
arc welding rod info
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
"THE TORCH"
WAS NICE ENOUGHT TO POST THIS WELDING ROD INFO
Arc welding electrodes are identified using the A.W.S, (American Welding Society) numbering system and are made in sizes from 1/16 to 5/16 . An The E6011 is not a complete number. It also needs a diameter designation such as "1/8" E6011 electrode."
The rid (electrode) is 1/8" in diameter
The "E" stands for arc welding electrode.
Next will be either a 4 or 5 digit number stamped on the electrode. The first two numbers of a 4 digit number and the first 3 digits of a 5 digit number indicate the minimum tensile strength (in thousands of pounds per square inch) of the weld that the rod will produce, stress relieved. Examples would be as follows:
E60xx would have a tensile strength of 60,000 psi. E110XX would be 110,000 psi
The next to last digit indicates the position the electrode can be used in.
1. Exx1x is for use in all positions
2. Exx2x is for use in flat and horizontal positions
3. Exx3x is for flat welding
The last two digits together, indicate the type of coating on the electrode and the welding current the electrode can be used with. Such as DC straight, (DC -) DC reverse (DC+) or A.C.
* Exx10 DC+ (DC reverse or DCRP) electrode positive.
* Exx11 AC or DC- (DC straight or DCSP) electrode negative.
* Exx12 AC or DC-
* Exx13 AC, DC- or DC+
* Exx14 AC, DC- or DC+
* Exx15 DC+
* Exx16 AC or DC+
* Exx18 AC, DC- or DC+
* Exx20 AC ,DC- or DC+
* Exx24 AC, DC- or DC+
* Exx2711 AC, DC- or DC+
* Exx2811 AC or DC+
So the E6011 has a tensile strength of 60,000psi, can be used in any position and can be used in either AC ot DC- welding. Basically it is a middle of the road welding rod. that can be used by less experienced welders in a variety od situations since it produces a deep penetrating weld and works well on dirty,rusted, or painted metals. A similar rod is the E6010. It produces similar results but can only be used with DC+ or DCRP (DC Reversed Polarity)
Ive been welding for 35 plus years and always asked for and got advice from the local MILLER DEALER,after explaining the welder to be used, the application, etc,then purchased the suggested rods IN BULK packs and never bothered to as what the numbers ment....
never said I was a GREAT weldor, but Ive welded lots of stuff over the years,thats still in use without it breaking,and while its not always the best looking job it STAYS WELDED ...IM working on the LOOKS PART, and the recent MILLER 330 AMP TIG purchase HELPS