Monkeys playing with footballs.

I have no desire to read 13 pages of drivel. When I get home tonight I may PM him that if he's willing to drive it to Vegas, I'll help him figure it out.
 
clutchdust said:
I have no desire to read 13 pages of drivel. When I get home tonight I may PM him that if he's willing to drive it to Vegas, I'll help him figure it out.
Click to expand...

I pm'ed him and gave him something to check. Also invited him to VM. Way to many idiots over there.
 
HIS symptoms matched mine exactly, and I tried to hint that HBoost is the way to fix it.....

I just waiting for a belly laugh when he finally does the fix.....

that guy, Golden and another there....good pissing contest...:yahoo::D:flash:
 
mrvette said:
HIS symptoms matched mine exactly, and I tried to hint that HBoost is the way to fix it.....

I just waiting for a belly laugh when he finally does the fix.....

that guy, Golden and another there....good pissing contest...:yahoo::D:flash:
Click to expand...

I want to help pauldana...but not through C/F with all the clowns over there. I could have had him fixed weeks ago. (no hydroboost either...lol)
 
hydroboost = bandaid, not a fix

Didn't read the thread though.

If you have a headache, you can pick up a hammer and whack your thumb, chances are you'll feel the thumb and forget the headache...did it cure the headache?
 
G, TT, you guys explain my direct A to B comparo, with no recurrence of any soft pedal crapola, and my booster held vacuum just fine when the check valve was popped, saw no evidence of internal failure.....

but did notice that tough compression spring between input and output shafts...why it's there, I don't care..it just is, and I convinced that is what let the pedal to the floor, giving that shit soft squishy feel to it....
like they ALL do, it's just more accentuated on the 4 wdisc cars like the shark, I have NEVER liked any vac booster car ....I feel this HB shark now is FAR superior in pedal feel and travel, as if I actually using a solid hydraulic system now not some wimpy limp dicked setup...

so explain the huge improvement, A to B, and then the continued total reliability....over some 4?+ years now....

:bounce::clap:
 
mrvette said:
G, TT, you guys explain my direct A to B comparo, with no recurrence of any soft pedal crapola, and my booster held vacuum just fine when the check valve was popped, saw no evidence of internal failure.....

but did notice that tough compression spring between input and output shafts...why it's there, I don't care..it just is, and I convinced that is what let the pedal to the floor, giving that shit soft squishy feel to it....
like they ALL do, it's just more accentuated on the 4 wdisc cars like the shark, I have NEVER liked any vac booster car ....I feel this HB shark now is FAR superior in pedal feel and travel, as if I actually using a solid hydraulic system now not some wimpy limp dicked setup...

so explain the huge improvement, A to B, and then the continued total reliability....over some 4?+ years now....

:bounce::clap:
Click to expand...

Gene..IMO when you converted to hydroboost, you inadvertently fixed your soft pedal. The vacuum booster is a solid connection, front to rear. The small spring you mention is a damper for the air valve spring, the larger one is the power piston return spring. Unless something is broken internally, the booster cannot make a soft pedal. I know I can never convince you of this...I won't try....BTW...the C-6 'Vette has perhaps the best brakes of any production sports car in the world and it has (drumroll).....vacuum assisted power brakes.
 
big_G said:
mrvette said:
G, TT, you guys explain my direct A to B comparo, with no recurrence of any soft pedal crapola, and my booster held vacuum just fine when the check valve was popped, saw no evidence of internal failure.....

but did notice that tough compression spring between input and output shafts...why it's there, I don't care..it just is, and I convinced that is what let the pedal to the floor, giving that shit soft squishy feel to it....
like they ALL do, it's just more accentuated on the 4 wdisc cars like the shark, I have NEVER liked any vac booster car ....I feel this HB shark now is FAR superior in pedal feel and travel, as if I actually using a solid hydraulic system now not some wimpy limp dicked setup...

so explain the huge improvement, A to B, and then the continued total reliability....over some 4?+ years now....

:bounce::clap:
Click to expand...

Gene..IMO when you converted to hydroboost, you inadvertently fixed your soft pedal. The vacuum booster is a solid connection, front to rear. The small spring you mention is a damper for the air valve spring, the larger one is the power piston return spring. Unless something is broken internally, the booster cannot make a soft pedal. I know I can never convince you of this...I won't try....BTW...the C-6 'Vette has perhaps the best brakes of any production sports car in the world and it has (drumroll).....vacuum assisted power brakes.
Click to expand...

OK, complete story, I had already ditched that switch/valve they fighting over, put in a similar splitter to the front, which is still there, as in the stock rear location....put the rears to the back portion of m/cyl, first actuated, and then front to the front port...second actuated....

it's that way now, I never pulled any BRAKE system hydraulics when going Vac to HB....never touched it...I had a truck large dia. m/cyl in there....

and shark stood on it's nose for first time EVER....

since then I have a cheep aluminum Pirate Jack racing m/cyl on there, and it's been there for some years now.....one thing is I did loose a l/f brake hose to locking the caliper....replaced both of them as they were about 11-12 years old anyway....BTW, I have stainless/O ring stock calipers all around....

SO, can someone logically explain to me how the car stopped on a dime with totally OVERsensitive brakes (due to the large diameter TRUCK m/cyl on there while I got the stock diameter replacement??)

direct A to B changeout....HUGE performance difference....longest I ever got with any fix was a 1/2 assed improvement, and then back to the same shit after a couple daze.....

then the HB unit, and it's been the same performance for some 4? years now....

so go figger, believe me, I hung on those HB threads like stink on shit, and finally went for it, as I was totally pissed about what I considered a shitty braking system for ANY car, and having never driven ANY vac boosted car with what I consider proper pedal feel.....until this shark, NOW....

the pedal feel is a opinion type thing, so I not condemning someone else for their opinion...but then that demonstrated change in MY car....someone gotta come up with some FM to refute my experience, WTF could I have overlooked???

:smash::surrender::thumbs:

OH, that mere presence of that spring between input and output shafts indicates some compression is available...has to be, other wise, why bother...that translated into more pedal travel at some point, where, I dunno, but it has to....
 
The reaction piston goes through the center of the small spring. The spring goes into the reaction body. It is there for damping, imo...So it is still a solid connection. Try pushing the pedal clevis with the output pin supported. It will not move!
 
big_G said:
The reaction piston goes through the center of the small spring. The spring goes into the reaction body. It is there for damping, imo...So it is still a solid connection. Try pushing the pedal clevis with the output pin supported. It will not move!
Click to expand...

HEHE....I can't do that any longer, I pulled that thing apart just for wonderment, and it's long since turned to rust...or new China merchandise as a Toyota frame member in a pickup somewhere....

:hissyfit::bump:
 
Twin_Turbo said:
G is right, it's a solid connection with a power piston, nothing more.
Click to expand...


72 overhaul manual here, open in front of me, page 5-22 fig 1C, Bendix Double Dia cross section....

I see the two large bakelight black discs screwed together behind the hydraulic push rod...and behind in the center is a reaction disc, whatever that is...then behind that is a Y shaped piston on that 'valve return spring' I refer to....that spring is in between the input and output shafts and free to compress some distance, allowing your pedal to go another ~2" to the floor without any further brake action....

it's the only possible explanation I can find for what I saw....but not that I really have a huge ax over this one, as MY car is fixed and HB is was finally did it....

to my knowledge it's the only HB car I have driven, and I think it's a HUGE improvement over suckey vacuum....:censored:
 
Granted, it's not exactly a fair comparison but I've owned two GMC (diesel) trucks with "hydroboost" and I would never waste my time and money switching from vacuum to hydroboost. The weight penalty alone is enough to stop me, but then on top of that the cost and I swear the vacuum assist brakes on my '81 will put the headlights in the dirt. Put on top of that the idea of repeated hard braking, as in a 20 minute+ track session, and there's just no way I trust that system.
 
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