New toy

Getting close to figuring out the front suspension geometry, I changed the ball joint hole on the drivers side and it worked, I have an a-arm the same length on the way.

Everything is mounted with slugs, you can offset them over an inch

IF my spindles have the same inclination, which they look like they do now I am left with one problem, the passenger spindle is 3/4-1" taller than the drivers side

Howe makes ball joints that are 1" longer, I think that would fix that issue

I had considered cutting one down and making the other taller, but I think the ball joint idea is better

edit: new calipers bolted right on, had an odd lug spacing 5.25", I think it is older nascar stuff, calipers are nice. Pistons are machined instead of stamped stainless like the superlites. Problem is the rotors are a little to large in diameter to fit in the calipers correctly.

Pretty sure I need rotors anyways, I may be able to take out the stainless heat shield inside the calipers to clear

rotors are $$$ though, 150-200 each for the larger thick ones that my car has. Forgot to measure the outside diameter. Looks like a lot of the newer nascar stuff is around 12.75"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MATCHED-PAI...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
 
Last edited:
Whatever came on the, have aeither 8 or 10* kingpin inclination and are 10" and 11" tall
 
Total costs so far

Car $1380
Radiator/oil cooler $275
Front calipers $140
Paint $20
Upper control arm $20
Sweet steering hub $18
 
Every day I am reminded I shoulda' bought a race car and made mods -- as you are doing.
Building ground up is fun - but long and painful. Witness TT's progress and he has a real garage! (But he's working - no doubt full time too.)
That was a great find you made and coming along nicely. :clap:
Will you be on the track soon?
 
My dream if I had the dough. Would be car collecting of racers. Nothing like one of a kinds, race history.

Ralphy
 
I'm lacking in the dough right now, not sure where I'm going to get the money to buy the transmission and the parts it needs

I have a lot to do before that though, may throw in a th400 and an old engine laying around in just to get it down to ride height and figure out some other things
 
With turns out my current arm was 7.5" not 7.25", either way not long enough, I think I'm going to order some 8". I found two 8.25" arms that are +.25" and -.25", might order those right now

It has like 5* of camber right now, with a square the tire is probably 3" away at the top

I turned down the jack screws so it has to be close to ride height

20130815_200558_zps26429cf3.jpg

20130815_200605_zps151ac696.jpg

Put a NASCAR tire on, 27.5x12 vs 27x10

20130815_201515_zps9eebe976.jpg

edit: springs are 750# rate, which is pretty much exactly what I want

I think I'm going to run a dry sump also, it already has everything, just need a pan, pump, and some short lines
 
Last edited:
Wonder if it needs to be even lower, front is around 5" of the ground now, with the plastic around the bottom probably less than 4"

This car is really fast, it does have probably 650hp though

rolexsebring13005_zps08c93f07.jpg

LeeArnoldSPO.jpg

This car is pretty similar to what I have

image_41.00075.jpg
 
Last edited:
Brake ducts

Not sure how I'm going to mount them

I was going to get some ducts from a nascar off of ebay but it seems like they are always hacked up or curved weird.

I will probably mount them vertically and cut off a corner and redo to make the inlet not so large, if it will fit without modifying I'll do that though. Looks to be either 11 or 13" tall and 4.5" wide

http://www.bicknellracingproducts.com/catalog2/index.php?p=product&id=3951
 
Last edited:
Rear rotors are only 11.5", also has a standard 3.5" lug mount, might keep the rotors and just get some superlites, should be sufficient

Took the 27x10" and put on 27.5x12" rollers, looks way better

Got the bell housing today, looks like I can only run a aftermarket race trans with it, should get the motor mounted tomorrow, I have a foam block to mock it up

Also got the 8.25" a-arms installed, It looks like this is the correct length, the arms I have are kinda crappy though so I'm gonna keep watching ebay for some NASCAR surplus arms that have slugs for more adjustability


20130830_164506.png

20130830_164518.png

20130830_175104.png

20130830_175109.png

20130830_205104.png
 
What do you guys this the best way to mount the front of the engine, already have the mid moutns figured out

Also how much ground clearance to the oil pan is sufficient?

If I go to a dry sump I'll have plenty, but with a wetsump it will probably be less than 4"

20130901_193943.jpg
 
Yellow73SB said:
What do you guys this the best way to mount the front of the engine, already have the mid moutns figured out
Click to expand...

Get a front mount plate - usually 1/4 inch Aluminum. Weld tabs on the chassis and thru bolt the plate. Cut and trim the plate as needed, heaps of space for mounting "junk," e.g., Overflow tanks, idler pulleys for serp setup, etc.

I'd add a pic - but the camera is packed for an early trip tomorrow morning.
12695224f3f7e38e3.jpg
You'll have to settle for that snap from AllStar.

BTW - looks like a lot of room in front of the engine. What plans for that real estate? Laydown radiator?, Turbos?


Cheers - Jim
 
Yeah, I had been considering it, maybe it is my best bet, just trim away as i need clearance
 
Went with a dry sump, crank centerline is 10.5" off the ground

Have a month off school, hope to get most of the car done, started on the radiator

Need to buy caliper ducts, have the nose ducts and screen. I also bought a premade grill for the radiator duct. Going to have a frame out of sqaure tubing and cover it with aluminum, I think that Idead better than using a break to make the hole thing, granted will weigh probably 10 pounds more. I'm also going to add an additional grill inside the duct right before the radiator

Then after that the brake lines, front nose needs a tube run across the bottom for support and additional braces. Then I need to bite the bullet and buy a bunch of different offset slugs so I can get it aligned correctly.

Rear end is cambered 1.8* postitive and negative, going to attempt to cut off everything on one tube and flip it over so both are 1.8 negative.

My dad is going to put a 5 speed in his corvette so I'll have a muncie soon. I'll probably rebuild a 90's vortec engine, should end up around 400hp and be cheap. Already have one, bought for $100. Have a 7.5" button fly wheel for a 1 piece rear and 7.5" light weight fly wheel and starter gear for a 2 piece already. I'll just buy a adapter to run the 2piece pan on the 1 piece rear.

20131130_170207_zps1a811569.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top