Power Window Problem

[DC3]

I rolled down the drivers side window of my '73 yesterday and it would not roll back up. Passenger window works fine. I can hear the motor click and the ammeter gauge dips when putting the driver's side switch into the down position. I get nothing when putting the driver's side switch into the up position. No sound at the motor and no ammeter dip.

I'm assuming a bad switch but before I take the seats out and the console apart, I'd like to do some testing.

Is there an accessible connector where I can jumper the motor leads to confirm the motor operates properly without having to take the door panel off?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks,

DC

 

[mrvette]

NOPE, you stuck, there is a single bolt to the rear of the center console, pull the center hatch lining, and remove bolt, I never bothered to replace mine, and so the two on either side up forward, lift ebrake handle and it's yours with a screwdriver to get the connectors off with....carefully....

methinks you have a bad switch contact....not all that hard to fix unless badly burnt...

but once you have the connectors off the switches, you can easy jump them off and see what works....

 

[riverracer]

i had the same problem 2 months ago.
traced it down to a broken wire in the door jamb rubber tube.
bitch of a place to get into repair, tight, not much room wriggle wires around

 

[mrvette]

i had the same problem 2 months ago.
traced it down to a broken wire in the door jamb rubber tube.
bitch of a place to get into repair, tight, not much room wriggle wires around

I see it's your first post, welcome to the motley crew....

we curious about your car and project/plans...so pix are always nice....

:thumbs::smash:

 

[DC3]

i had the same problem 2 months ago.
traced it down to a broken wire in the door jamb rubber tube.
bitch of a place to get into repair, tight, not much room wriggle wires around

Winner! That's exactly what it turned out to be. Previous owner had the same problem and used a crimp connector but left it in the rubber tube. It broke again right at the crimp. This time I ran a new wire to the motor and made sure I had enough slack to get the splice inside the car and out of the door jamb.

Unfortunately, wiggling the wires didn't give me any indication of the problem. I ended up removing the console to check the switch and then removed the door panel to check the connections at the motor. When I tugged on the blue wire, it came out of the tube and fell into the bottom of the door. Pain in the rear but I'm back in business now.

DC

 

[riverracer]

i had the same problem 2 months ago.
traced it down to a broken wire in the door jamb rubber tube.
bitch of a place to get into repair, tight, not much room wriggle wires around

Winner! That's exactly what it turned out to be.

glad my :1st: post helped someone else
i managed to rejoin my wires, but 38yr old copper wire is not copper coloured anymore, more dark black
managed to get a crimp in there after removing ac ducting, kick panel etc and gently pulling wires around