Rollcage from Jegster????

Stroker-427

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
315
Location
Pistoia - ITALY
Only very few bends are ok for a C3 !!!

thum_144d3c9d90d0ceb.jpg

thum_144d3c9dab2fb74.jpg

thum_144d3c9dc698b6b.jpg

thum_144d3c9ddb10050.jpg

Be prepared to modify nearly any bend.... anyway the bigger part of the job is done, I only need the side bars and the connections to the front suspensions!

Everything is bolted in order to be able to podwer coat it.

I will post more pics when the cage will be complete!
 
looks great but it also looks like a lot of work. Overall, would you say it's ok for the money or better pay a local shop to bend the tubing and custom fit it ?
 
I've heard these don't fit very well..... but they're under $300 as far as I remember, that's a sweet deal if shipping is the usual flat rate....

Yellow73sb offered custom made cages a while back.... it was a great deal and I regret I didn't buy a cage from him when I had the chance.... :banghead::banghead:
 
The Jegs kit is cheap ERW tube. Not DOM. I wish i had done more research before i bought it. I did call them before i purchased and they lied about it.
 
This is from the SCCA Solo rule book.

APPENDIX C - SOLO ROLL BAR STANDARDS
A. BASIC DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
1. The basic purpose of the roll bar is to protect the driver in case
the vehicle rolls over. This purpose should not be forgotten.
2. The top of the roll bar shall not be below the top of the driver's
helmet when the driver is in normal driving position, and shall
not be more than six inches behind the driver. It is strongly
suggested that the roll bar extend at least three inches above
the driver's helmet. In case of two driver cars, both drivers
must be within the roll bar height requirement, however only
one driver must be within six inches of the roll bar. In a closed
car equipped with a roll bar/cage, it must be as close as possible
to the interior top of the car.
3. The roll bar must be designed to withstand compression forces
resulting from the weight of the car coming down on the roll
structure, and to take fore-and-aft loads resulting from the car
skidding along the ground on the roll structure.
4. The two vertical members forming the sides of the hoop shall
not be less than fifteen inches apart (inside dimension). It is
desirable that the roll bar extend the full width of the cockpit
to provide maximum bearing area in all soil conditions during
rollovers. The roll bar vertical members on formula cars and
other single seat cars with a center driver position must be not
less than fifteen inches apart, inside dimension, at their attachment
points to the uppermost main chassis member.
5. An inspection hole of at least 3/16 inch diameter must be
drilled in a non-critical area of a roll bar member to facilitate
verification of wall thickness. This should be at least three
inches from any weld or bend.
6. It is recommended that steel gusset plates be used at all
welds. Gussets should be at least two inches long on each leg
and 3/16 inches thick.
7. It is recommended that roll bars be coated only with a light
coat of paint. If, however, a roll bar should be chrome-plated,
it is recommended that the structure be normalized.
8. Post or tripod types of roll bars are not acceptable.
B. MATERIAL
After 9-22-85, aluminum is not an acceptable alternate material.
Cars using aluminum roll bars or roll cages must file proof with
the SD that the structure was approved prior to 9-22-85 as provided
in this section.
1. The roll bar hoop and all braces must be of seamless, ERW, or
218
DOM mild steel tubing (SAE 1010, 1020, 1025) or equivalent,
or alloy steel tubing (SAE 4130). It is strongly recommended
that roll bars not be constructed of ERW due to quality and
strength concerns.
2. The size of tubing to be used shall be determined on the
basis of the weight and speed potential of the car. The following
minimum sizes are required required and are based
upon the weight of the car without the driver.
a) Over 1500 lbs.-min. of 1-1/" 2 o.d. x .120" wall or 1-3/4"
o.d. x .095" wall
b) Over 1000 lbs.-min. of 1-1/4" o.d. x .090" wall
c) Under 1000 lbs.-min. of 1" o.d. x .060" wall
Dimensions are nominal. 0.005" variation in wall thickness is
allowed.
3. Each mounting plate shall be at least .080" thick if welded and
3/16" thick if bolted. A minimum of 3 bolts per plate is required
for bolted mounting plates.
4. All bolts and nuts shall be SAE Grade 5 or better, 5/16"
minimum diameter.
C. FABRICATION
1. One continuous length of tubing must be used for the hoop
member with smooth continuous bends and no evidence of
crimping or wall failure.
2. All welding must be of the highest possible quality with full
penetration and will be subjected to very critical inspection.
Arc welding, particularly heliarc, should be used wherever
possible.
D. BRACING
1. It is recommended that braces be of the same size tubing as
used for the roll bar itself.
2. All roll bars must be braced in a manner to prevent movement
in a fore-and-aft direction with the brace attached
within the top one-third of the roll hoop, and at an angle of at
least thirty degrees from vertical. It is strongly recommended
that two such braces be used, parallel to the sides of the car,
and placed at the outer extremities of the roll bar hoop. Such
braces should extend to the rear whenever possible.
3. It is suggested that roll bars include a transverse brace from
the bottom of the hoop on one side to the top of the hoop on
the other side.
219
E. MOUNTING PLATES
1. Roll bars and braces must be attached to the frame of the car
wherever possible. Mounting plates may be used for this
purpose where desired.
2. In the case of cars with unitized or frameless construction,
mounting plates may be used to secure the roll bar structure
to the floor of the car. The important consideration is that the
load be distributed over as large an area as possible. A
backup plate of equal size and thickness must be used on the
opposite side of the panel with the plates through-bolted
together.
F. REMOVABLE ROLL BARS
Removable roll bars and braces must be very carefully designed
and constructed to be at least as strong as a permanent installation.
If one tube fits inside another tube to facilitate removal, the
removable portion must bottom on the permanent mounting,
and at least two bolts must be used to secure each such joint.
The telescope section must be at least eight inches in length.
G. INSTALLATION ON CARS OF SPACE FRAME AND FRAMELESS
DESIGN
1. It is important that roll bar structures be attached to cars in
such a way as to spread the loads over a wide area. It is not
sufficient to simply attach the roll bar to a single tube or junction
of tubes. The roll bar must be designed in such a way as
to be an extension of the frame itself, not simply an attachment
to the frame. Considerable care must be used to add as
necessary to the frame structure itself in such a way as to
properly distribute the loads. It is not true that a roll bar can
only be as strong as any single tube in the frame.
H. ROLL CAGES
It is recommended but not mandatory that all cars utilize a roll
cage as defined in Section 18 of the GCR.
I. ROLL BAR PADDING
Braces and portions of the main hoop subject to contact by
the driver's or passenger's helmet, as seated normally and restrained
by seatbelt and harness, must be padded with a nonresilient
material such as Ethafoam (R) or Ensolite (R) or other
similar material with a minimum thickness of one-half inch.
 
As stated the price is quite good..... but not to mention about shipping.... which was more expensive than the cage itself! (here in Italy)

I know DOM tubing is better..... but is not mandatory, so this wasn't a concern for me.

Yes, a lot of work..... for wrong bends and to modify it for making removable.
Only some small spot weld was done in the car with the cage in place..... then removed for final welding.... my car will burn tires...... don't have to burn at all!
 
A. BASIC DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
1. The basic purpose of the roll bar is to protect the driver in case
the vehicle rolls over. This purpose should not be forgotten. apparently some people need to be reminded of this purpose :smash:

1. The roll bar hoop and all braces must be of seamless, ERW, or
218
DOM mild steel tubing (SAE 1010, 1020, 1025) or equivalent,
or alloy steel tubing (SAE 4130). It is strongly recommended
that roll bars not be constructed of ERW due to quality and
strength concerns.

so why even list ERW if it is not recommended.... ???....
 
A. BASIC DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
1. The basic purpose of the roll bar is to protect the driver in case
the vehicle rolls over. This purpose should not be forgotten. apparently some people need to be reminded of this purpose :smash:

1. The roll bar hoop and all braces must be of seamless, ERW, or
218
DOM mild steel tubing (SAE 1010, 1020, 1025) or equivalent,
or alloy steel tubing (SAE 4130). It is strongly recommended
that roll bars not be constructed of ERW due to quality and
strength concerns.

so why even list ERW if it is not recommended.... ???....

I guess they have grandfathered older cages that use ERW or smaller tube etc. They talk about aluminum before 85.

I don't feel bad about my bar because its 1.75" and .137 thick which is way thicker than the DOM spec. They spec a 1.75 .097 DOM. It may actually be stronger. But, you have to fight with the inspector over the whole thing which is a huge hassle.
 
ERW tubing is not permitted in any car registered with the SCCA after 1/01/2003
This is from the General Competition Rules.

If you are not going to club race it, does it really matter? However, Solo cars dont require bars. Just depends on what you are going to do with the car?

I would be more worried about the rear diagonal lateral brace.
 
Last edited:
Of course..... the diagonal bar must be welded in place, but will be the last thing, with the car on the scales....... to be shure that everything is squared off.
And then I will place the front bars to the front wheels.

Basically the purpose of the rollcage is stiffening the frame.... I have very stiff springs and shocks (Penske) and th frame can't handle the forces.

Basically my target is a stiffer frame, in order to beable to use softer shocks.

No rules to be followed.....! ;-)
 
Today some new rods in my cage!

Side bars and harness bar tag welded in place..... tomorrow I will dismantle the cage to weld it.

thum_144d3f59a29f1db.jpg

thum_144d3f59be9573f.jpg

thum_144d3f59f614530.jpg
 
Last edited:
Why make it a priority to powder coat the cage over welding it in?
 
First of all I dont like to weld inside the car....
second, because I really need any millimiter of room inside the car, it will be impossible to weld all the joints.

If the bolted flange is well done there is any concern about robustness.
I think it will be more important to have good welds (with all the room you need to do it).

Basically I'm istalling the cage to stiffen the frame (my Penske are very stiff and the weakest part is the frame).

If you drive fast it is possible to feel the torsion of the frame...... it is very evident!
 
First of all I dont like to weld inside the car....
second, because I really need any millimiter of room inside the car, it will be impossible to weld all the joints. <<SNIP>>

Please forgive my ignorance. Once the cage is welded how do you
get it back in the car?
 
The cage is divided in few sections:
1) top loop welded to the main loop
2) two rear rods from the main loop to the rear frame
3) two front rods going down from the top loop
4) the rods connected to the front suspensions are welded in place.

The main loop is bolted to the frame, the rear and front bars are bolted to the top loop and to the frame.
Checking the forces is easy to notice that the forces in the bolted area are only traction and compression (like in any isostatic frame) and four 8mm bolts in any joint are more that enough for this job.

The side bars can be relased pulling the rear pins..... in order to open them like the doors.

I hope my english is enough to explane the idea..... which is nothing of new, of course! ;-)
 
Top