Stupid electrical question of the day - shrink connectors

[73 Mike]

Based on Birds post under my electricity 101 thread, I picked up some crimp connectors with integral shrink sleeves (3M I believe). What is the correct way to shrink the sleeves? I know that a propane torch works but I don't imagine this is the correct way. Paint stripping hair dryer?

 

[Twin_Turbo]

paint stripper with special shrink tubing nozzle works like magic

 

[denpo]

Personally I use a lighter, make the flame dance under the shrink tube. One second or two and it's done.

 

[Fuelie74]

I prefer to use a heat gun.

 

[big2bird]

Based on Birds post under my electricity 101 thread, I picked up some crimp connectors with integral shrink sleeves (3M I believe). What is the correct way to shrink the sleeves? I know that a propane torch works but I don't imagine this is the correct way. Paint stripping hair dryer?

Hmm. Crimp connectors are sold two ways. Insulated and non-insulated. I know of no preassembled shrink type connectors. Got a part number Mike?

As for shrink tube, they do make a heat gun with an attachment for spec work. For just the occasional one or two splices, I use a lighter too. The material is pretty stout, and does not much care how it's shrunk.

 

[Fuelie74]

Based on Birds post under my electricity 101 thread, I picked up some crimp connectors with integral shrink sleeves (3M I believe). What is the correct way to shrink the sleeves? I know that a propane torch works but I don't imagine this is the correct way. Paint stripping hair dryer?

Hmm. Crimp connectors are sold two ways. Insulated and non-insulated. I know of no preassembled shrink type connectors. Got a part number Mike?

As for shrink tube, they do make a heat gun with an attachment for spec work. For just the occasional one or two splices, I use a lighter too. The material is pretty stout, and does not much care how it's shrunk.

Heat shrink crimp connectors are nice. They also make them with solder inside, but they aren't as common and are very pricey.

Normal crimp with heat shrink
http://www.repairconnector.com/categories/CRIMP-AND-HEAT-SHRINK-CONNECTORS/
Solder crimp with heat shrink
http://www.repairconnector.com/categories/SOLDER-CRIMP-HEAT-SHRINK-CONNECTORS/

 

[big2bird]

Based on Birds post under my electricity 101 thread, I picked up some crimp connectors with integral shrink sleeves (3M I believe). What is the correct way to shrink the sleeves? I know that a propane torch works but I don't imagine this is the correct way. Paint stripping hair dryer?

Hmm. Crimp connectors are sold two ways. Insulated and non-insulated. I know of no preassembled shrink type connectors. Got a part number Mike?

As for shrink tube, they do make a heat gun with an attachment for spec work. For just the occasional one or two splices, I use a lighter too. The material is pretty stout, and does not much care how it's shrunk.

Heat shrink crimp connectors are nice. They also make them with solder inside, but they aren't as common and are very pricey.

Normal crimp with heat shrink
http://www.repairconnector.com/categories/CRIMP-AND-HEAT-SHRINK-CONNECTORS/
Solder crimp with heat shrink
http://www.repairconnector.com/categories/SOLDER-CRIMP-HEAT-SHRINK-CONNECTORS/

Hmm. Never heard of them. Must be an automotive grade. Without a UL label, I would never encounter them at work.

 

[Fuelie74]

They are the preferred method of wire repair for most of the automotive manufactures now.

 

[73 Mike]

I ended up with a mixed bag of both. How do the elder ones work? Solder the joint first or to the ring?

Based on Birds post under my electricity 101 thread, I picked up some crimp connectors with integral shrink sleeves (3M I believe). What is the correct way to shrink the sleeves? I know that a propane torch works but I don't imagine this is the correct way. Paint stripping hair dryer?

Hmm. Crimp connectors are sold two ways. Insulated and non-insulated. I know of no preassembled shrink type connectors. Got a part number Mike?

As for shrink tube, they do make a heat gun with an attachment for spec work. For just the occasional one or two splices, I use a lighter too. The material is pretty stout, and does not much care how it's shrunk.

Heat shrink crimp connectors are nice. They also make them with solder inside, but they aren't as common and are very pricey.

Normal crimp with heat shrink
http://www.repairconnector.com/categories/CRIMP-AND-HEAT-SHRINK-CONNECTORS/
Solder crimp with heat shrink
http://www.repairconnector.com/categories/SOLDER-CRIMP-HEAT-SHRINK-CONNECTORS/

 

[mrvette]

OK, I been in electronics/electricals for decades now, and the only crimp connectors I know I totally trust are the types made of heave gauge metal so when crimped for connection, and the wires pulled on, they don't slide out...I can't imagine any other design as worth a flip.....and somehow shrink anything is not going to ensure a good clean connection over time, MAYBE a splice, but not on a end/butt connector....

someone explain how this is not true????

what am I missing???

:clobbered::nuts:

 

[Fuelie74]

I ended up with a mixed bag of both. How do the elder ones work? Solder the joint first or to the ring?

Based on Birds post under my electricity 101 thread, I picked up some crimp connectors with integral shrink sleeves (3M I believe). What is the correct way to shrink the sleeves? I know that a propane torch works but I don't imagine this is the correct way. Paint stripping hair dryer?

Hmm. Crimp connectors are sold two ways. Insulated and non-insulated. I know of no preassembled shrink type connectors. Got a part number Mike?

As for shrink tube, they do make a heat gun with an attachment for spec work. For just the occasional one or two splices, I use a lighter too. The material is pretty stout, and does not much care how it's shrunk.

Heat shrink crimp connectors are nice. They also make them with solder inside, but they aren't as common and are very pricey.

Normal crimp with heat shrink
http://www.repairconnector.com/categories/CRIMP-AND-HEAT-SHRINK-CONNECTORS/
Solder crimp with heat shrink
http://www.repairconnector.com/categories/SOLDER-CRIMP-HEAT-SHRINK-CONNECTORS/

No they work just like the first type. You crimp them and then heat them up. They have solder in them already the flows threw the joint when its heated.

 

[73 Mike]

No they work just like the first type. You crimp them and then heat them up. They have solder in them already the flows threw the joint when its heated.

Ah so! Can't wait to try those.

 

[big2bird]

OK, I been in electronics/electricals for decades now, and the only crimp connectors I know I totally trust are the types made of heave gauge metal so when crimped for connection, and the wires pulled on, they don't slide out...I can't imagine any other design as worth a flip.....and somehow shrink anything is not going to ensure a good clean connection over time, MAYBE a splice, but not on a end/butt connector....

someone explain how this is not true????

what am I missing???

:clobbered::nuts:

Not a thing Gene. Good crimp connectors are good for current as is. For the low voltage signals of todays computer cars, I can see the benefits of soldering. As for waterproofing, only a totally epoxy incapuslated connection is waterproof. Anything else just is an "improvement" per se.
Mike, next time your down this way, splice 101 at my house.

 

[mrvette]

OK, I been in electronics/electricals for decades now, and the only crimp connectors I know I totally trust are the types made of heave gauge metal so when crimped for connection, and the wires pulled on, they don't slide out...I can't imagine any other design as worth a flip.....and somehow shrink anything is not going to ensure a good clean connection over time, MAYBE a splice, but not on a end/butt connector....

someone explain how this is not true????

what am I missing???

:clobbered::nuts:

Not a thing Gene. Good crimp connectors are good for current as is. For the low voltage signals of todays computer cars, I can see the benefits of soldering. As for waterproofing, only a totally epoxy incapuslated connection is waterproof. Anything else just is an "improvement" per se.
Mike, next time your down this way, splice 101 at my house.

Man I tell you what, I can't FIND decent heavy gauge connectors or wire ends any more, seems that all of them are so thin they may as well be tin foil....:banned:

 

[TimAT]

And from the aviation side:

Solder sleeve:

Strip the wires stick them thru so they overlap in the center, heat and the solder melts, the sleeve shrinks and seals.

Environmental Splice:

Outer sleeve over the wire, crimp the barrel, center the sleeve and heat. Shrinks down to the wire and seals.

 

[73 Mike]

Mike, next time your down this way, splice 101 at my house.

Looking forward to it. Maybe we'll do the class directly on my car. :mobeer:

 

[Twin_Turbo]

And from the aviation side:

Solder sleeve:

Strip the wires stick them thru so they overlap in the center, heat and the solder melts, the sleeve shrinks and seals.

Environmental Splice:

Outer sleeve over the wire, crimp the barrel, center the sleeve and heat. Shrinks down to the wire and seals.

I have used the top ones quite a but, expensive but nice. For wires that see some stress I like to slide the thing over a wire, then twist the wires together, slide the crimp connector over the exposed core and then shrink it so it doesn't rely on the shrink & solder to hold

 

[010752]

Man I tell you what, I can't FIND decent heavy gauge connectors or wire ends any more, seems that all of them are so thin they may as well be tin foil....:banned:

You want heavy.h:
Just use some copper tubing, crimp like normal, solder and some good heat shrink. If your really fussy, you can wipe the soldered connection with some silicone before the heatshrink.
Works great for exposed areas. Cheap too.
I cringe when I see wires with the old crimp only connectors.

Here it is on some fuselinks.

 

[mrvette]

Man I tell you what, I can't FIND decent heavy gauge connectors or wire ends any more, seems that all of them are so thin they may as well be tin foil....:banned:

You want heavy.h:
Just use some copper tubing, crimp like normal, solder and some good heat shrink. If your really fussy, you can wipe the soldered connection with some silicone before the heatshrink.
Works great for exposed areas. Cheap too.
I cringe when I see wires with the old crimp only connectors.

]

I get all picky about function above appearance, so my wiring LOOKS like a mess, that I admit.....when I built some prototype for some trade show, I"d have to of course make sure it worked....DUHHH....then hand it over to our head assembler...and Debbi would make it pretty for show....an art I never had...still don't....I just skin/twist/solder the wire ends, wrap in black tape, then maybe tie wrap....damn rarely ever use shrink wrap because I dunno when I maybe want to try something else....

so to look at it philosophically....my brain got more projects than my hands can handle....

:clobbered::huh: