Plastic Fantastic 2

I made an executive decision.... not using this one
YI9h40Ah.jpg

mostly because if you look in the hole, you'll see the cooler tube takes 2/3rds of the tank.... so I got to looking for options and it appears a C5/C6 Z06 (7.0 liter) radiator is just what the doctor ordered.... so I ordered it anyway and didn't tell them I wasn't a doctor.....edited
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
Not a rant - simply wondering if anyone else is dealing with this.



I have a Miller Elite helmet I bought early 2014. It has worked as expected since new, but recently the dimming function seems to be possessed. My first thought was battery, and I replaced it, that helped but it still either doesn't dim or dims then doesn't come back to see-through. Replaced the battery again, replaced the protective lens, dusted (gently) the lens and sensors... no joy. Anyone else dealing with this? I've reached out to Miller but probably won't hear back for at least a couple days.... are sensors a wear item? I would hope that replacing $400 helmets every 5 years is not the answer.... of course, if it is.... what do you like? this helmet is starting to wear on the pivots so I won't be terribly upset to give it a full update (I like that it doesn't fog easily).
Click to expand...

I don't claim to have any answers, but my first two self-dimming helmets were high dollar brand name pieces. Got a few years each out of them, and then they took a powder. I said I can't afford (actually, I couldn't justify) spending the big money for these things, given the hobby usage duty cycle that these things are used by me. Planned to go back to the old style helmets I learned to weld with, but for whatever reason I was in a HF store one day and noticed electronic helmets for about $50. I tried one, and it worked as well as the expensive ones. Have broken a couple over the years, but honestly cannot recall one just failing for no reason.

Just my $.02.
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
I made an executive decision.... not using this one
YI9h40Ah.jpg

mostly because if you look in the hole, you'll see the cooler tube takes 2/3rds of the tank.... so I got to looking for options and it appears a C5/C6 Z06 (7.0 liter) radiator is just what the doctor ordered.... so I ordered it anyway and didn't tell them I wasn't a doctor.....edited
Click to expand...

My present radiator has a similar situation with the trans cooler tube being very visible in the tank area. I considered not using it (it's out of a 2001 Cavalier, trying to reduce coolant weight) due to some flow restriction concerns, but after looking at the flow area through the upstream thermostat, I came to the conclusion that the radiator port tube wasn't the primary flow restriction in the system.

So far the radiator seems to be doing fine in city driving. Haven't had the opportunity to do a track day with it yet.
 
69427 said:
SuperBuickGuy said:
Not a rant - simply wondering if anyone else is dealing with this.



I have a Miller Elite helmet I bought early 2014. It has worked as expected since new, but recently the dimming function seems to be possessed. My first thought was battery, and I replaced it, that helped but it still either doesn't dim or dims then doesn't come back to see-through. Replaced the battery again, replaced the protective lens, dusted (gently) the lens and sensors... no joy. Anyone else dealing with this? I've reached out to Miller but probably won't hear back for at least a couple days.... are sensors a wear item? I would hope that replacing $400 helmets every 5 years is not the answer.... of course, if it is.... what do you like? this helmet is starting to wear on the pivots so I won't be terribly upset to give it a full update (I like that it doesn't fog easily).
Click to expand...

I have that helmet. After a few good flashes with no dimming/shading I figured out a fix. When ever the helmet sits unused for a while, I always press the test button. If it blinks twice I know it is good to go. This seems to wake it up. If I skip this I get flash. The manual talks about it.

Not sure the proper name for the test button.
Click to expand...
 
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Newer than mine. [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hTP1gSsj1VY&app=desktop[/ame]
 
rtj said:
https://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?62804-Flash-from-Miller-Elite-helmet
Click to expand...

Interesting find, but that thread is at least 2 years older then my helmet - it has different buttons on it then what the OP describes.... it also has replaceable batteries. I guess I didn't print Miller's response.
Miller's answer - surprisingly no "dancing with virgin witches at midnight during a harvest moon".... of course, they may simply presume that we already know this....



Are you using Panasonic batteries?

If the lens is a digital elite put brand new Panasonic batteries in the lens

Turn the lens on

Turn sensitivity to zero

Remove the batteries while the lens is on

Press and hold the on/off button for 10 seconds.

Put batteries back in the lens.


and thank you for the thread post - it answers my question about whether or not this is an on-going problem. I'll probably buy a new helmet after SEMA - and after I attempt a guilt trip on Miller for this helmet....
 
Last edited:
69427 said:
SuperBuickGuy said:
I made an executive decision.... not using this one
YI9h40Ah.jpg

mostly because if you look in the hole, you'll see the cooler tube takes 2/3rds of the tank.... so I got to looking for options and it appears a C5/C6 Z06 (7.0 liter) radiator is just what the doctor ordered.... so I ordered it anyway and didn't tell them I wasn't a doctor.....edited
Click to expand...

My present radiator has a similar situation with the trans cooler tube being very visible in the tank area. I considered not using it (it's out of a 2001 Cavalier, trying to reduce coolant weight) due to some flow restriction concerns, but after looking at the flow area through the upstream thermostat, I came to the conclusion that the radiator port tube wasn't the primary flow restriction in the system.

So far the radiator seems to be doing fine in city driving. Haven't had the opportunity to do a track day with it yet.
Click to expand...


In theory (which is causing me to laugh at 'theory') the C5 radiator won't need to have its outlets moved.... since it can successfully cool a 7.0 LS motor, I'm betting that it will be fine with a different bore/stroke 7.0.... it's supposed to arrive Tuesday - if it does, I'll let you know - otherwise it won't be for a bit because I'm headed to the Reno Air Races on Wednesday...
 
My helmet is 10 years old at least. People were saying buy Lincoln or miller, but not Chinese stuff at that time. Miller must have a problem as they made a video! Good luck on finding a replacement.

Great progress.
 
rtj said:
My helmet is 10 years old at least. People were saying buy Lincoln or miller, but not Chinese stuff at that time. Miller must have a problem as they made a video! Good luck on finding a replacement.

Great progress.
Click to expand...

Nothing I bought from Airgas has worked out - I wanted a Speedglas and they talked me into this... so now I 'advertise' for them.
 
it's here, will it fit?
40wxhNzh.jpg
Like a glove
xqfd4Yth.jpg
rpXgRuAh.jpg
with the fan
mVJPwdOh.jpg
and worked on the throttle cable
fh5C1Uxh.jpg
some disassemblyedited
HOxYk6Kh.jpg

​​​​​​​headed to the Reno Air Races - so no updates for a bit...edited
 
for those who think it is impossible to take 4 days to install a throttle cable, I say AH HA
lM6y9Uhh.jpg
G0cKVukh.jpg
iJ1uXm9h.jpg
only problem is the pedal doesn't travel far enough to get WOT.... sigh, day 5 coming soon
​​​​​​​
 
SuperBuickGuy said:
for those who think it is impossible to take 4 days to install a throttle cable, I say AH HA
lM6y9Uhh.jpg
G0cKVukh.jpg
iJ1uXm9h.jpg
only problem is the pedal doesn't travel far enough to get WOT.... sigh, day 5 coming soon
​​​​​​​
Click to expand...

I had the same problem with mine (carbed). Apparently it's not a rare issue with C3s. The common issue is, along with any cable stretching, the stamped steel arm on the throttle pedal assembly bending over the years, and allowing the pedal part to hit the floor before WOT. I, and many others, just rebend the stamped arm rearward, raising the pedal height and allowing the throttle plates to open completely at WOT.
 
69427 said:
SuperBuickGuy said:
for those who think it is impossible to take 4 days to install a throttle cable, I say AH HA
lM6y9Uhh.jpg
G0cKVukh.jpg
iJ1uXm9h.jpg
only problem is the pedal doesn't travel far enough to get WOT.... sigh, day 5 coming soon
​​​​​​​
Click to expand...

I had the same problem with mine (carbed). Apparently it's not a rare issue with C3s. The common issue is, along with any cable stretching, the stamped steel arm on the throttle pedal assembly bending over the years, and allowing the pedal part to hit the floor before WOT. I, and many others, just rebend the stamped arm rearward, raising the pedal height and allowing the throttle plates to open completely at WOT.
Click to expand...

that is the plan, if I have to elongate the hole - I'll do that as well...
 
Radiator work
0nmCyvih.jpg
oh and KTM racing - buy 5 gallons get 4 1/2.....
jzzaAngh.jpg
in my reading today, I noted that the 800 hp FI tech doesn't have timing control.... which may cause me to find another solution for it
X98mVk6h.jpg
so glad I installed the 73 rear - if I stacked stuff on it before, it'd have rolled off... awesome
Ob0Y2WAh.jpg
time to upsize the inlet and outlet
H46bWONh.jpg
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practice welds first
lO3bBQYh.jpg
and away we go
GbusHsCh.jpg
and viola
GvvGYOAh.jpg
 
Are you able to roll a little bead towards the end of the tubes to help with hose and clamp retention or do you think it'll hold well enough without it? I always worry that a good pressure surge will blow it off. We have several liquid cooled transformers at work that have copper tubing on the coolant passages and they often are just straight wall tubes with no bead and air bubble/pressure surges will blow them off and that can and has been catastrophic for the equipment. I'd hate to see that happen on your big block!
 
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