TPI hoses?

BangkokDean

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Getting close to attaching all the hoses but what and where do these connect to?

hoses.jpg
 
Getting close to attaching all the hoses but what and where do these connect to?

hoses.jpg

1 is ported vacuum, like goes to your valve cover breather,

2 is manifold vacuum, could be used for PCV valve in valve cover....

3 is a water line for heating the throttle body for winter use in like Canada/Minnesota winters lessens iceing, same as exhaust heat riser under a carb....there is another port for the water to circulate through, it's part of the housing containing the IACM Idle air motor.....

4 looks like the other end of that water flow, I cut those off my t-body, years ago so that function is unused.....IF #4 is into the mani base, it's into the crossover, and I forget where that goes IF that's the case, and so in the rear of your base you see a 1/8 NPT hole for a fitting with a 1/4" inner diameter to go to a piece of 3/8 id hose to the front of the water pump suction side....

5 looks like a fuel rail fitting, but it's position is different than on a Corvette TPI, which is what I had, I understand the F body units had the fuel rails coming off the left front, not right front.....there really should be two fittings there, one for the input off the pump/filter and one return line coming from the regulator in back under the plenum.....which of course has a vacuum line to the rear right side of the plenum, about a 4" rubber hose.....IF you match up your coolent temp sensor, you maybe well find that it fits into hole 4 or 5, and so that's where it goes, and the other hole is plugged...my TPI is gone for several years now, having switch to a LT1 style intake...

:beer:
 
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5 looks like coolant, temp sensor? Fuel rail is higher up

Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201 using Tapatalk 2
 
5 = port for ECT sensor
th one with the plug is for a cold start injector temperature switch if you have a 9th injector

4 = coolant to bottom of tb, if someone didn't already cut off the nipple on the tb bottom. route the coolant from there to the heater or rad and leav the #3 coolant port off too
 
2 goes to charcoal canister not pcv

RONG, 2 goes to full mani vac just behind the throttle blades, and as such CAN be used to control the evap canister, but really there is a port on the bottom left that is about 1/8 diameter, and that one was used to control the canister valve, MY valve failed in the open position, so I saw no problem just splicing it into the ported vac position with the PCV valve in the valve cover....

NOW, my PCV valve sucks much less oil in the LT1 arrangement, and the evap emissions is not controlled by any valve, it just sux through the canister and into the ported vac #1....along with any left over crank case crap on the right side valve cover:beer:
 
5 = port for ECT sensor
th one with the plug is for a cold start injector temperature switch if you have a 9th injector

4 = coolant to bottom of tb, if someone didn't already cut off the nipple on the tb bottom. route the coolant from there to the heater or rad and leav the #3 coolant port off too

AHH, I have a speed density system, so no 9th injector, ever, and I have had a setup that had the 9th injector sealed off, but it's been years, never knew there was a extra sensor for it.....:shocking:
 
dead rrrrrrrrrrrrrrong, Jeff is correct 2 goes to the evap cannister and is the purge line, the control vac line is t-ed of the little fitting on the bottom of the TB that also runs to the egr solenoid
 
dead rrrrrrrrrrrrrrong, Jeff is correct 2 goes to the evap cannister and is the purge line, the control vac line is t-ed of the little fitting on the bottom of the TB that also runs to the egr solenoid

#2 is full mani vac at all times, not before the throttle blades, that much I know is correct.....

and it's not used for anything on my car now, been that way for some years....

number ONE is before the throttle blades, much like where the air temp sensor would be, further upstream.....

and as such sucks my uncontrolled evap canister, and the residual valve cover, which is really a gutted PCV valve body in my case, funny as I have another one just open vented on the left side, never did bother with it, mainly because the valve covers have no pressure or leaks, engine runs fine....


Marck, I just went out a proved the point the top--1/2" diameter fitting is indeed ported vac......incoming airstream above the t-blades....

the smaller 3/8 pipe noted as #2 here is full mani vac....I just went out and started the car and proved it, just to check my olde tyme memory....

:shocking::clap:
 
dead rrrrrrrrrrrrrrong, Jeff is correct 2 goes to the evap cannister and is the purge line, the control vac line is t-ed of the little fitting on the bottom of the TB that also runs to the egr solenoid

Marck, the canister CONTROL line is full vac to pull the valve open, the purge line is NOT full mani vac, or the tank would be under full manifold vacuum all the time, surely air pressure at whatever it is would collapse the tank, so figger 15 psi a sea lever Florida, and then full engine vacuum at ~20+ under decelaration suck would probably ruin the fuel tank....

I can't imagine any TBody would have reversed those two pipes,


:beer:
 
top is for valve cover breather

bottom for canister purge

threaded holes in intake for either cold start injector sensor and CTS on 85-88 on 89-92 onlt one hole is open for CTS sensor.

PCV gets its vacuum from in front of the drivers side rear two runners

1/8 inch vacuum port under under throttle body is for egr

right rear plenum port 85-89 for hvac and f/p regulator, 90-92 had 3 ports in this location f/p regulator, hvac, map sensor.

case closed

1990-91Corvettevacdia.gif
 
top is for valve cover breather

bottom for canister purge

threaded holes in intake for either cold start injector sensor and CTS on 85-88 on 89-92 onlt one hole is open for CTS sensor.

PCV gets its vacuum from in front of the drivers side rear two runners

1/8 inch vacuum port under under throttle body is for egr

right rear plenum port 85-89 for hvac and f/p regulator, 90-92 had 3 ports in this location f/p regulator, hvac, map sensor.

case closed

1990-91Corvettevacdia.gif

:shocking: JEFF, in all honesty I never messed with the canister purge crap on my '87 vette, and so with the '72 shark, I just followed the '72 diagrams and modified to suit on the TPI install, then finding at some point that in fact my canister valve was open all the time due to some internal failure, I found out to just eliminate the control hose, and run to the large 1/2" hose fitting on top, along with the NOW imitation PCV valve.... with the TPI , it was a real PCV valve,

the lower 3/8 nipple is full mani vac, and I can't see how in hell it could ever go to the charcoal canister fuel evap line

and the diagram is a bit too hard to read on some of that....

I can see PORTED vac to the charcoal canister, but not full mani vac....

:bonkers::search:
 
Boy I am really confused now, so lets repeat the question but by adding this. Why do they run hot water from the cooling system threw the system? Please keep in mind that in Bangkok it never gets below 70*F and 90 % of the time it is 90*F here. So do I need to run hot water? I don't have a 9th injector but I had planed to put the PCV valve on the passenger side of the motor, with air breather on the left side. Also I will not have a charcoal canister, just a vented gas cap.
Please advise?
Thanks
hoses.jpg


This looks like what I thought it should look like, with no hot water hoses.
2007car059.jpg
 
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the control vac line is t-ed of the little fitting on the bottom of the TB that also runs to the egr solenoid
What and where is the egr solenoid, is this the egr?If not what connects to this?
Photo0196.jpg

In your other thread, I didn't spot that large ~3" diameter EGR valve that goes on top of the mani, underneath the plenum, held on by two bolts, you should have a EGR block off plate bolted in place, otherwise you have two open holes in that mani there, one to the main intake passages, another open to the exhaust pressure, what you show in you second pix is the fuel pressure regulator.....I presume with running LPG, you not need any gasoline, so that is moot, unused.....

Hot water kept it from icing in cold/rainy weather, I had the experience long time ago on a old Dodge van that never ran good in cold moist weather, so me and a buddy went for a ride with air cleaner and dog house off, and witnessed first hand the carb icing up with the cold moist air, the vacuum drop of it entering the carb caused the moisture to freeze and ice up on the carb air inlet area, choke, horn and the engine went nutz, so to keep same thing from happening, hot water was used, not an issue here in Florida, damn sure is when things are just right up north though.....

:D
 
the control vac line is t-ed of the little fitting on the bottom of the TB that also runs to the egr solenoid
What and where is the egr solenoid, is this the egr?If not what connects to this?
Photo0196.jpg

In your other thread, I didn't spot that large ~3" diameter EGR valve that goes on top of the mani, underneath the plenum, held on by two bolts, you should have a EGR block off plate bolted in place, otherwise you have two open holes in that mani there, one to the main intake passages, another open to the exhaust pressure, what you show in you second pix is the fuel pressure regulator.....I presume with running LPG, you not need any gasoline, so that is moot, unused.....

Hot water kept it from icing in cold/rainy weather, I had the experience long time ago on a old Dodge van that never ran good in cold moist weather, so me and a buddy went for a ride with air cleaner and dog house off, and witnessed first hand the carb icing up with the cold moist air, the vacuum drop of it entering the carb caused the moisture to freeze and ice up on the carb air inlet area, choke, horn and the engine went nutz, so to keep same thing from happening, hot water was used, not an issue here in Florida, damn sure is when things are just right up north though.....

:D

Ok there is a plate in the middle of the intake manifold held down with two bolts so I guess that is what you are talking about(see picture). Yes I will be running LPG but also gasoline if needed so the fuel pressure regulator will need to be operational. So I will need to know what to connect it to? The weather here is actually the same as south Florida but 11 months a year, so hot water is not necessary. So what I now see is all I need to connect is the #1 to the PCV as shown in the picture on the yellow car, #2,#3,#4 and #5 wont be used. And I just need to know what to connect the fuel pressure regulator to. The fuel rail in and return lines are easily easy to connect to the tank.
 

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the control vac line is t-ed of the little fitting on the bottom of the TB that also runs to the egr solenoid
What and where is the egr solenoid, is this the egr?If not what connects to this?
Photo0196.jpg

In your other thread, I didn't spot that large ~3" diameter EGR valve that goes on top of the mani, underneath the plenum, held on by two bolts, you should have a EGR block off plate bolted in place, otherwise you have two open holes in that mani there, one to the main intake passages, another open to the exhaust pressure, what you show in you second pix is the fuel pressure regulator.....I presume with running LPG, you not need any gasoline, so that is moot, unused.....

Hot water kept it from icing in cold/rainy weather, I had the experience long time ago on a old Dodge van that never ran good in cold moist weather, so me and a buddy went for a ride with air cleaner and dog house off, and witnessed first hand the carb icing up with the cold moist air, the vacuum drop of it entering the carb caused the moisture to freeze and ice up on the carb air inlet area, choke, horn and the engine went nutz, so to keep same thing from happening, hot water was used, not an issue here in Florida, damn sure is when things are just right up north though.....

:D

Ok there is a plate in the middle of the intake manifold held down with two bolts so I guess that is what you are talking about(see picture). Yes I will be running LPG but also gasoline if needed so the fuel pressure regulator will need to be operational. So I will need to know what to connect it to? The weather here is actually the same as south Florida but 11 months a year, so hot water is not necessary. So what I now see is all I need to connect is the #1 to the PCV as shown in the picture on the yellow car, #2,#3,#4 and #5 wont be used. And I just need to know what to connect the fuel pressure regulator to. The fuel rail in and return lines are easily easy to connect to the tank.

FPR is connected to full mani vacuum, I used a similar size into the holes to the rear pass side of the plenum, ~1/8 id rubber hose....

PCV VALVE has to go to the #2 fitting which is ~3/8 diamater, same as a PCV valve so a length of PCV hose, you can use fuel hose in a pinch but the gasses are nasty and so if you can, get hose rated for the job.....the #2 fitting is full mani vacuum,

#1 is ported vacuum, and so not sucking a whole lot, much lower suck readings, especially at idle, which is critical for the EVAP EMISSIONS main purge hose, which essentially goes straight to the tank via the canister.....

the CONTROL valve is a smaller hose going to the bottom fitting of the T-body or for that matter any similar fitting on the plenum, just so the valve sees full mani vac when engine is running, OPENS, and allows the lower vacuum from the PORTED #1 source to take the gas fumes.....

for the longest time, I was using RED marking 200 psi fuel hose with ordinary hose clamps on the fuel lines, that has been changed to full out wire reinforced fuel hose, and what they selling here as 'injection clamps'....full wrap metal, with a bolt/nut that can reach much higher holding power than just a worm hose clamp.....in fact I use two of them on the feed hose, because it's under ~45 psi pressure, above the headers, and so me be paranoid, with your setup there, you not so close to the headers, but still maybe better to be safe.....


Oh, edit.....I note you have not blocked/capped that fuel rail on the left rear where it went to the 9th injector, and when you remove that injector, you need put a cap/plug in the hole it was mounted to, as that's full mani vacuum.....

:nuts:
 
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Thanks for the info. One more question. Can this port on the intake be used for the PCV valve?

Photo0203.jpg
 
that is indeed the one for the PCV, next to the 9th injector tube which is blocked on yours and using later style runners.

What's up with the ports on the intaks next to the injector bosses on the right??
 
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