Body Mounts? kit question

Number 2 and 3 where pretty straight forward. Soaked with PB blaster and used a 15mm socket on one of the bolts and 5/8 on the others. Threads on bolts looked good so the cage nuts should be fine.
Do I need to loosen anything around the rear bumper to lift the body a couple of inches?
 
donnie_19 said:
Number 2 and 3 where pretty straight forward. Soaked with PB blaster and used a 15mm socket on one of the bolts and 5/8 on the others. Threads on bolts looked good so the cage nuts should be fine.
Do I need to loosen anything around the rear bumper to lift the body a couple of inches?
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Be carefull with the antenna ground, you should have enough loose in the wires, but better safe than sorry.
 
MYBAD79 said:
on number4: isn't there a metal piece on the inside and outside? once you got these two pieces removed the fiberglass repair shouldn't be all that difficult.

any success on number two ?
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As you can see the bolts from 2 and 3 look pretty good.
The piece of metal on the outside is the reinforcement bracket that I ordered from Willcox. The metal on the inside I will try to pry out whats left and put a new plate inside. Just wondering if I should coat the new bolts with something or just paint with rustoluem when I am finished? Should I prep the cage nuts with something for rust.
It won't be me changing the bolts and mounts out in another 35 years.
 

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Anti seize for the threads

When you pry that inside puece out, check if there are rivets holding it to the outside piece... I dont remember but I think its not just glued
 
Got the driver side jacked up a couple of inches today and all the pucks removed Number 4 mount needs the most attention. Open to suggestions to repair the fiberglass before I attach the reinforcing bracket. If there was a steel plate on the inside I can't find any trace of it as all the rust crumbled when I removed the bolt.
 

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haha, crumbled rust is a trace of steel.....

found a diagram of the body mount assembly: looks like the is no "inner" metal reinforcemt, your rust is probably from the bolt and washer.

c1de0be4b22a91d182b308e60bd4bc45.jpg
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MYBAD79 said:
haha, crumbled rust is a trace of steel.....

found a diagram of the body mount assembly: looks like the is no "inner" metal reinforcemt, your rust is probably from the bolt and washer.

c1de0be4b22a91d182b308e60bd4bc45.jpg
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My support bracket that's welded on the frame, the end has rusted out. I have some large washers that I am be able to weld to replace these. I also have some fiberglass mat that I can wrap around the upper mount to rebuild and reinforce.
 
Made good progress on the body mounts today. Got the driver side raised about 3 inches and the no. 4 mount repaired. I used some fiberglass matt and resin. Waiting on the reinforcement bracket from Willcox. Will need to drill a new hole after the reinforcement bracket is attached. I might make a nut plate to fit inside no 4 to spread the load out. I found some big washers I can use to weld back on top of the frame tabs.
Bought qty of 8 7/16 course thread bolts, nuts and a few extra washers for $6.
 

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Made some progress today on the body mounts. Unfortunately the 4" bolts for 2& 3 are to long, not enough thread. I needed 3 1/2" but not a big deal as I am waiting on the no 4 reinforcement brackets. I was able to jack the body up enough to get my fingers between the frame and body to get the poly mounts in place.
 
make sure that when you are ready to tighten bolts: set the body down on the cushions and make sure all are loaded before you start torquing bolts.... add shims to the loose cushions....
 
WTF I messed up today and cracked the inner fender well. I was raising the rear to start routing some fuel lines and heard a pop and have a long crack in th glass. The crack extends behind frame rail and under to the corner of the battery box. I had jacked up this part the day before when working on body mounts so guess it was to cold in the shop? Now I get to patch it up.
 

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donnie_19 said:
WTF I messed up today and cracked the inner fender well. I was raising the rear to start routing some fuel lines and heard a pop and have a long crack in th glass. The crack extends behind frame rail and under to the corner of the battery box. I had jacked up this part the day before when working on body mounts so guess it was to cold in the shop? Now I get to patch it up.
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Body should always be held by the metal of the birdcage.
To get this fixed you'll need to grind a V groove into the crack, 1" wide on each side, painter tape ouside the groove, and glass the shit out of it.
Check recent post on my resto thread for pictures.
 
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in my "body mount" thread I included a few photos that show how I lifted the body using mechanical (old school) scissor jacks ans wood under the floorboards. I lifted only one side at a time.
Once all new body mount cushions were in place I verified that all eight are "tight" (for the lack of a better description)-- I touched all eight and checked if I could turn them, if I found a loose one I added a shim.... then once all eight were not turning because the body's weight was on them I tightned the bolts.....
 
Thanks for the info. I was only raising one side and had previously raised that side a couple days before. Only thing I can think was the cold fiberglass.
 
I repaired the crack today. I had to jack the body up a little to get to the crack behind the frame rail and noticed the rear bumper pulled from the body a little bit at the corners. Forgot to take a picture. Am I supposed to loosen or remove some bolts from the rear bumper? Now I need to fix this.
 
Depending on how much you lifted the bumper cover can hit the reinforcement bar, that bar can hold the bumper down.... I did not have a problem with that.
It's probably a easy fix: loosen the bolts that hold the cover to the body, push back in place, re-tighten the bolts.... a helper outside of the car would be helpful so that he/she can push the bumper in place while you're under the car tightening the bolts....
 
Got all the body mounts in place. Had to loosen the rear bump to get enough height for the body mount 4. It twisted slightly when I lowered the body. Going to have to take a big pipe wrench and see if I can turn it a little to get bolts restarted.
 
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