Rollcage

Yellow73SB · Mar 24, 2008

I'm probably going to be putting one in soon. It seems like a PITA

I just have the rear hoop and supports right now.

I want to do the door bars like this

I'll post more after I get my hair cut

racervette69 · Mar 24, 2008

you can add to your back hoop with the autopower front kit,, not that easy,

http://www.autopowerindustries.com/rollcages.asp

Yellow73SB · Mar 24, 2008

racervette69 said:
you can add to your back hoop with the autopower front kit,, not that easy,

http://www.autopowerindustries.com/rollcages.asp

Yeah I'm thinking it's going to be easier to redo what I have than cut up the fiber glass.

redvetracr · Mar 24, 2008

that cage seems very busy under the windshield post area.
redvetracr

Yellow73SB · Mar 24, 2008

Theres not many bars coming out though

Heres some of the cheater cars cages

Yellow73SB · Mar 24, 2008

Heres some more cage pics including one in a coupe

Twin_Turbo · Mar 24, 2008

I would just forget about the whole door bar deal you posted above, it will make getting in and out a bitch. Why not just use one bar, maybe 2 max but triangulated. Like in the car with the blue interior.

Yellow73SB · Mar 24, 2008

Like this

The nascar style bars are safer though. SCCA rules say that two bars are required so either could work

Heres another x but it's real low

It would be easier to get in and out then

This one actually has both

I've also seen the anscar bars real low also

redvetracr · Mar 24, 2008

Twin_Turbo said:
I would just forget about the whole door bar deal you posted above, it will make getting in and out a bitch. Why not just use one bar, maybe 2 max but triangulated. Like in the car with the blue interior.

a quick release steering wheel makes "life" getting in & out much easier....don`t buy one with a hex, get a Sweet.

Twin_Turbo · Mar 24, 2008

yeah the hex ones (speedway) suck. Grant used to make a very nice one that fits the stock column, not sure if it's still avaialble. It was the lift ring type.

I may end up swapping my steering column for a sweet collapsable and getting their disconnect while I'm at it.

84rzv500r · Mar 24, 2008

If he can hold on till this semester's over he has a very nice Grant quick Unit heading his way. I'm gonna start on my dash and new steering column (A SWEET telescoping one)

The Ladder style bars are good for safety but triangulated is stronger...

:wink:

Yellow73SB · Mar 24, 2008

I want to have the doors easily removable also

I'm picking up another pair of doors this weekend to modify

I'm not really worried about me getting in though, more so my dad. He can get in and of the nascar pretty good though.

84rzv500r I'll have to take you up on that offer if I keep the stock column

The column and the mounts have to weight a ton though.

Twin_Turbo · Mar 25, 2008

The column isn't that heavy. The mounts are, and the early cast iron upper mount weight a ton. The later stamped steel ones are a little lighter but still very heavy

Yellow73SB · Mar 25, 2008

How would guess that the mounts weight? Do you think It would be easy to make some custom mounts?

Twin_Turbo · Mar 25, 2008

They are not a very difficult design, you could probably fab something out of steel and drill holes in it to lighten it.

international blue · Mar 29, 2008

SO to recap are these cages all fabricated or "kit" cages that come from a vendor. Am looking for a fully legal and strong cage setup for my C-3 and need to buy the "best" fit for a vintage racer...

What vendors are best, and use American Steel...??

Here is my timeframe...bodywork, rear flares installation currently ongoing, and expected compoletion in a couple weeks. Want to get the body, doors back to primer and ready for paint in a month. Removing the body, the frame will be measured and then welded up, gusseted and painted, then ready for the body / cage intallation.

Any advice anyone has would be awesome, Redvetracer please chime in if you have any tips for me!

Joe 949-280-9799

racervette69 · Mar 29, 2008

These guys do great work, they do most of the project cars for grassroots motorsports. I've had them do two cages for me, very high quality, however most of the time they are 6 weeks or more out..

http://www.kirkracing.com/catologue.htm

redvetracr · Mar 29, 2008

international blue said:
SO to recap are these cages all fabricated or "kit" cages that come from a vendor. Am looking for a fully legal and strong cage setup for my C-3 and need to buy the "best" fit for a vintage racer...

What vendors are best, and use American Steel...??

Here is my timeframe...bodywork, rear flares installation currently ongoing, and expected compoletion in a couple weeks. Want to get the body, doors back to primer and ready for paint in a month. Removing the body, the frame will be measured and then welded up, gusseted and painted, then ready for the body / cage intallation.

Any advice anyone has would be awesome, Redvetracer please chime in if you have any tips for me!

Joe 949-280-9799

If your looking for "old school" you might start with an Autopower (San Diego) roll bar then find someone (a sand buggy builder maybe as you live in the desert) to add on to that. For some reason the Owens-Corning team didn`t have full cages until the winter of 1970 when they had Michigan funny car chassis builder Logghe stamping bend them up three identical cages (my car is the only one that retains it`s full original cage)....SCCA rules perhaps?
redvetracr

international blue · Mar 30, 2008

Interesting. I am desirous of the old school look, but integrating that to a strong and somewhat contemporary cage is essential for safety in my mind. Side impact, chassis rigidity and clean design....so many choices! Thanks for your answer!

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