BangkokDean
Well-known member
Retro Rack and Pinion Steering
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3oYhuOBGLI[/ame]
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3oYhuOBGLI[/ame]
Anyone tried this Rack yet?
- Thread starter BangkokDean
- Start date
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
BET it cost more than the 200 bux I paid for MY rack conversion.....
:smash::thumbs:
:smash::thumbs:
yeah ive got one in my RHD 77 vette. the CTO version
nice and light and smooth steering BUT i cant get it to re-centre. gotta look at the geometry a bit more i think
not really a sports ratio as well but good enough for what i want.
try 15 times your price MR Vette.
cant get into photobucket to post some pics ,but will do later if you want
nice and light and smooth steering BUT i cant get it to re-centre. gotta look at the geometry a bit more i think
not really a sports ratio as well but good enough for what i want.
try 15 times your price MR Vette.
cant get into photobucket to post some pics ,but will do later if you want
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MYBAD79
Moderator
Mine doesn't re-center very well either... Have not found out why.... Gene, how does your rack re-center ?? Your tie rods are about as long as mine, if that makes a difference on the re-centering .... That's why I'm curious about yours ....
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mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
What you mean by 'recenter'??? the wheel returning to straight up by itself as you drive down the road??....I dunno, if that's what you mean, I would have to try it, after a dozen years, I kinds used to it the way it is....
when you turn a corner and kinda let go the wheel it should turn back to centre by itself,
thats what i need mine to do so it can be engineered and be reroadworthy.
if you look at the video (i havent bothered) but he should be demonstrating how each section can be rotated and locked into position, without pulling it apart. when i put mine in i had the centre takeoff point horizontal and there was no return .
a wheel align with max out caster (standard a arms ) = no return
then i adjusted the middle ie take off up as far as it went to get the tie rods going DOWN to the wheels and it returns but not quite enough for mr engineer man , so thats where im at with it.
But yes Mr vette i know how you feel its so easy just to get used to how it is i wonder what the fuss is about.
thats what i need mine to do so it can be engineered and be reroadworthy.
if you look at the video (i havent bothered) but he should be demonstrating how each section can be rotated and locked into position, without pulling it apart. when i put mine in i had the centre takeoff point horizontal and there was no return .
a wheel align with max out caster (standard a arms ) = no return
then i adjusted the middle ie take off up as far as it went to get the tie rods going DOWN to the wheels and it returns but not quite enough for mr engineer man , so thats where im at with it.
But yes Mr vette i know how you feel its so easy just to get used to how it is i wonder what the fuss is about.
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
better angle pics , tierods are still horizontal but before the adjustment they angled UP to the wheels .
[/URL][/IMG]
LONG time ago, I THINK it was a fellow on this forum, but maybe from another....been a while, but the man suggested to me that I change the height of my inner tie rod ends to correct for bump stear.....and so yes, I bumped a stear decades ago.....at any rate, the steering was improved a good bit.....
but on center correction after a turn was not observed as a problem....
I maybe go flip around the burb here tmrw IF I spot this thread again, my curiosity is raised.....
:gurney:
Günther-C3
Active member
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2010
- Messages
- 36
If the steering doesn´t recenter, you have to add the caster as much as you can.
Then I found a mistake in the picture. I assume you have power steering, then you have to mount the tie-rod end into the inner hole, not the outer as you have.
[/IMG]
Then I found a mistake in the picture. I assume you have power steering, then you have to mount the tie-rod end into the inner hole, not the outer as you have.
MYBAD79
Moderator
This is excellent info, no hijack :thumbs: i think we should edit the title of this thread to include the name of that rack conversion so that this is searchable ....
Even if you have power steering, why do you "have to" use the inner holes? Using the outer holes the steering effort is lower so why not? Maybe that PS pump provides low assist ????
Even if you have power steering, why do you "have to" use the inner holes? Using the outer holes the steering effort is lower so why not? Maybe that PS pump provides low assist ????
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
ASSuming the rack is not a limiting factor, using the outer knuckle points just makes for more turns of the wheel....inner point will give less turning radius /quicker steering.....with power rack you will never notice any EFFORT difference on the steering wheel, but at the road, surely.....I going to go check my car now on the return to center gig.....
Yup, fine.....turn wheel about 180 to turn the corners, snaps right back to center just fine, right and left, turn wheel side/side on a level road, it pops right back to center....
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OK then no hijack so i will keep going here,
motor is a 1999 Ls1 from a commodore , which is like the family (4door) version of the GTO. engine came from a wrecked car and the steering pump looked brand new on it . I checked with Mario , the guy in the video above and he said it is compatable pressure for his rack.
so yesterday i checked and found a loose front wheel bearing , tightened that up, and now it returns strongly until the last 1/4 of the turn from each way where it just stops .
just to recap here i have had the castor set to max .
no binding at all through all travel lock to lock.
no bump steer at all.
rack does travel full distance as well ,steering knuckle bumps against a arm stopper bolt.
unfortunately this is not enough to satisfy inspection so i will reposition those tierods and see what happens
motor is a 1999 Ls1 from a commodore , which is like the family (4door) version of the GTO. engine came from a wrecked car and the steering pump looked brand new on it . I checked with Mario , the guy in the video above and he said it is compatable pressure for his rack.
so yesterday i checked and found a loose front wheel bearing , tightened that up, and now it returns strongly until the last 1/4 of the turn from each way where it just stops .
just to recap here i have had the castor set to max .
no binding at all through all travel lock to lock.
no bump steer at all.
rack does travel full distance as well ,steering knuckle bumps against a arm stopper bolt.
unfortunately this is not enough to satisfy inspection so i will reposition those tierods and see what happens
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phantomjock
Well-known member
At least you have a "proper shed, Mate!" Isn't the WOF (warranty of fitness) just a pain in the butt?
Cheers - Jim
Cheers - Jim
thats my old carport or boatport where i stored the other fibreglass toy that cost a fortune to run. sold that and bought all this instead.
I can walk clear under any corvette on the hoist but with any other cars i cant.roof is 3.7 metres tall from memory
the wall you see is my 6m by 6m shed (which isnt big enough lol)
If anyone is thinking about buying one of these, just be warned , your on your own after you pay for it . they dont make any brackets apart from the clamping blocks on the rack itself.(for corvette )
Anyway im stuck with it so i keep on going ..
Just changed the position of those tierods, its helped a bit more
If i turn right it returns almost to centre , the last 1/8th is slow though.
if left it stops returning about1/8th from centre .
tyre pressures checked as well.
I can walk clear under any corvette on the hoist but with any other cars i cant.roof is 3.7 metres tall from memory
the wall you see is my 6m by 6m shed (which isnt big enough lol)
If anyone is thinking about buying one of these, just be warned , your on your own after you pay for it . they dont make any brackets apart from the clamping blocks on the rack itself.(for corvette )
Anyway im stuck with it so i keep on going ..
Just changed the position of those tierods, its helped a bit more
If i turn right it returns almost to centre , the last 1/8th is slow though.
if left it stops returning about1/8th from centre .
tyre pressures checked as well.
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mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
Doubt you find a street driven car that is any better, mine reacts like what you describe....
thats what im thinking , a wheel alignment ,then im just going to drive it around for a while and see how it goes
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
You do have to align the toe at minimum when doing that position shift.....
:hissyfit:
