Battery cable : that was PO's idea

[denpo]

I'm reconnecting the grounds on the car, and I was wondering if what PO did with the negative battery cable makes any sense.
Instead of being connected to the rear of the frame, mine is long and goes up to a bellhousing bolt.
Should I leave it or should I get back stock?

 

[mrvette]

I'm reconnecting the grounds on the car, and I was wondering if what PO did with the negative battery cable makes any sense.
Instead of being connected to the rear of the frame, mine is long and goes up to a bellhousing bolt.
Should I leave it or should I get back stock?

GM most always did it that way for all their cars....battery to engine/starter stud on all installs, for some reason they did not do that on sharks....but having never bothered to change it, I pulled the frame connections on the negative, years ago, and cleaned it up to shiny metal on all connections with new bolts and then covered with RTV/silicone seal....never an issue since...

no reason from what you say that the install you have is no good....

but make sure you have a stout cable from engine/negative battery to chassis frame at any hand....

the stock setup was from engine mount horn on pass side, to engine block, mine was under the engine mount with a ~6" jumper....battery to frame in stock appearing location, treated as I said above....

:drink:

 

[denpo]

I'm reconnecting the grounds on the car, and I was wondering if what PO did with the negative battery cable makes any sense.
Instead of being connected to the rear of the frame, mine is long and goes up to a bellhousing bolt.
Should I leave it or should I get back stock?

GM most always did it that way for all their cars....battery to engine/starter stud on all installs, for some reason they did not do that on sharks....but having never bothered to change it, I pulled the frame connections on the negative, years ago, and cleaned it up to shiny metal on all connections with new bolts and then covered with RTV/silicone seal....never an issue since...

no reason from what you say that the install you have is no good....

but make sure you have a stout cable from engine/negative battery to chassis frame at any hand....

the stock setup was from engine mount horn on pass side, to engine block, mine was under the engine mount with a ~6" jumper....battery to frame in stock appearing location, treated as I said above....

:drink:

Ok, so this was making sense. Good.
Yeah, I have a thick cable connecting the engine to the frame. On this cable I redid what PO did. His cable was connection the frame to the engine mount main bolt. Problem was that the engine mount was acting like an insulator. Now it's frame to engine directly.
Thanks Gene for the ligthning fast answer.:flash:

 

[Fuelie74]

I would convert it back to the original connection points. No need for the extra wire. Also consider replacing your positive cable at this point since you have the car disassembled and it is far easier to change with the transmission removed.

 

[denpo]

I would convert it back to the original connection points. No need for the extra wire. Also consider replacing your positive cable at this point since you have the car disassembled and it is far easier to change with the transmission removed.

Disassembled no more! The body have been bolted back this weekend.
I didn't think about changing the positive cable, it looked ok.
Should I have?

 

[Fuelie74]

As long as it wasn't corroded or the insulation all rubbed off you will be fine.

 

[big2bird]

I didn't think about changing the positive cable, it looked ok.
Should I have?

Since aluminum/copper clad cables corrode internally, I do not understand "Looked okay."

 

[mrvette]

I didn't think about changing the positive cable, it looked ok.
Should I have?

Since aluminum/copper clad cables corrode internally, I do not understand "Looked okay."

Mine looks OEM to me, except for one thing, i'ts a side post battery....did they have them in '72? all others of the era I remember were top post....

and the connector is molded on cleanly, not a adaptation...

:sweat:

 

[denpo]

I didn't think about changing the positive cable, it looked ok.
Should I have?

Since aluminum/copper clad cables corrode internally, I do not understand "Looked okay."

Well, that why I said "looked" instead of "is".

I didn't think about changing the positive cable, it looked ok.
Should I have?

Since aluminum/copper clad cables corrode internally, I do not understand "Looked okay."

Mine looks OEM to me, except for one thing, i'ts a side post battery....did they have them in '72? all others of the era I remember were top post....

and the connector is molded on cleanly, not a adaptation...

:sweat:

Same thing for me, NAPA's side post battery, that what was in there.