redvetracr
Well-known member
I came across this rare set of windshield wiper interrupter switches and one of the plastic slide switches has a broken mount, so whats the best stuff to glue plastic to plastic?
best glue for plastic
- Thread starter redvetracr
- Start date
Douglas Mariani
Well-known member
I used Permatex Super Glue with great results bonding plastic to plastic
68/70Vette
Well-known member
I'll go with the super glue suggestion also. Depending upon the type of plastic, a specialized plastic glue, specifically the plastic glue made to build plastic model airplane kits may be a good choice. Also check out Eastwood, they sell plastic "welding" kits.
Oh...for buying things like super glue. Go to a store that sells supplies for high end radio control model airplane enthusiasts. This store will be selling to modelers who spend several thousand on their model airplanes, helicopters. These stores will have the specialized super glues, putties, tools, etc that will really help repairing your plastic car interior parts. They sell a selection of super glue in various strengths and various set up times. For instance one super glue product is sticky but doesn't set up. It's sticky enough to hold things in place, and later move around, but doesn't harden. When everything is correct, you paint over an accelerator and it immediately hardens. They also may have putties that harded when you shine an ultra violet light on the putty. The stuff they sell won't be found in a neighborhood hardware store.
Also, when gluing plastic parts, I try to cover the surfaces I don't want to glue with masking tape. I inevitably get the glue on my fingers and then without masking tape, I've left plastic glue finger prints on the other surfaces. I use masking tape to prevent "finger prints" and overflow onto finished surfaces.
Can we hear how successful you are in your glueing project? Thanks
If it weren't for my vettes, I'd be in the RC model airplane hobby. In Torrance, my home town, about a month ago, I turned into a residential street to find a rather large F16 model airplane taxi-ing towards me. I stopped and could see a man about 100 foot away with an RC transmitter. Anyhow, the model F16 made a U turn and I followed it down the street. and stopped next to the man with the transmitter unit. I asked about how it was powered. It was making a rrrrrr-ing sound and didn't sound like a piston powered ducted fan. He said it was a TURBOJET! I looked at it and could see the heat waves coming out of the tail and I pulled up right along side it and then I smelled the kerosene. This was a big bucks model airplane, not only a turbo jet, but also, it had nose wheel steering! Damn, so many fun things in life to play with and not enough money/time to enjoy!
Oh...for buying things like super glue. Go to a store that sells supplies for high end radio control model airplane enthusiasts. This store will be selling to modelers who spend several thousand on their model airplanes, helicopters. These stores will have the specialized super glues, putties, tools, etc that will really help repairing your plastic car interior parts. They sell a selection of super glue in various strengths and various set up times. For instance one super glue product is sticky but doesn't set up. It's sticky enough to hold things in place, and later move around, but doesn't harden. When everything is correct, you paint over an accelerator and it immediately hardens. They also may have putties that harded when you shine an ultra violet light on the putty. The stuff they sell won't be found in a neighborhood hardware store.
Also, when gluing plastic parts, I try to cover the surfaces I don't want to glue with masking tape. I inevitably get the glue on my fingers and then without masking tape, I've left plastic glue finger prints on the other surfaces. I use masking tape to prevent "finger prints" and overflow onto finished surfaces.
Can we hear how successful you are in your glueing project? Thanks
If it weren't for my vettes, I'd be in the RC model airplane hobby. In Torrance, my home town, about a month ago, I turned into a residential street to find a rather large F16 model airplane taxi-ing towards me. I stopped and could see a man about 100 foot away with an RC transmitter. Anyhow, the model F16 made a U turn and I followed it down the street. and stopped next to the man with the transmitter unit. I asked about how it was powered. It was making a rrrrrr-ing sound and didn't sound like a piston powered ducted fan. He said it was a TURBOJET! I looked at it and could see the heat waves coming out of the tail and I pulled up right along side it and then I smelled the kerosene. This was a big bucks model airplane, not only a turbo jet, but also, it had nose wheel steering! Damn, so many fun things in life to play with and not enough money/time to enjoy!
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68/70Vette
Well-known member
Just had another re-read of your posting. Is this one of the plastic vacuum switches that has a pull down knob to manually overide a vacuum windshield wiper system function? Repro versions are made, but the one's I bought were leakey. The NOS switches are the ones to get if you need a new one. However, the last time I looked a couple of years ago, they were very expensive. Repairing an original is a good way to go. I was able to buy a couple of NOS for my 68. Don't know if they're still available.
mrvette
Phantom of the Opera
I still have all them switches outta my '72 OEM...they worked when removed...
not to continue the hyjack much but I remember a neighbor across the street one evening from a kitchen job....I come out and he is playing with a RC Helicopter, I stood there in total amazement....he flew that thing all around the hood...he said it was fairly new to him, and he wasn't GOOD at it yet....
:clobbered:
not to continue the hyjack much but I remember a neighbor across the street one evening from a kitchen job....I come out and he is playing with a RC Helicopter, I stood there in total amazement....he flew that thing all around the hood...he said it was fairly new to him, and he wasn't GOOD at it yet....
:clobbered:
If the housing is made of a plastic like Nylon, CA (super glue) may not be the best choice. Got a picture of the broken part?
redvetracr
Well-known member
so far I tried Duro Quick gel (super glue), Devcon (2 part epoxy) and my old reliable Superpoxy (2 part epoxy). the little part on the left mounts at a 90* angle and holds the switch to the metal bracket with a small screw, there is also a small tab that slips into the metal bracket thats also broken.
Twin_Turbo
Der Maulwurf
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2008
- Messages
- 7,575
Howard, is there room on the back where you can put a good dab of glue? If so, I suggest roughing up the back and using thick epoxy adhesive. I've used thixostropic (meaning peanut butter consistency) epoxy to repair very small stuff like interior parts for C4s. The truick is to get a good dab on the back, that'll hold it all together since the crack surface on your part is small and it won't hold very well
redvetracr
Well-known member
the problem is there is a piece that goes inside and slides, it`s a very tight fit.
MYBAD79
Moderator
Is this the type of plastic that model car glue will melt ?? If you're lucky and it's the correct plastic you can use this model car/plane/train glue: it will melt the plastic and sorta 'weld' the two pieces together.... almost like the PVC glue for PVC pipe.
saudivette
Clueless In Sandland
I've used 2 part epoxy pastes for small parts like that, the sort of stuff that advertises being able to be drilled, tapped, turned etc when cured.
Do you have the room Howard to notch out the crack on both sides and use something like I suggested?
One that springs to mind is called Milliput. You'd get that from a modelling supply shop...
Do you have the room Howard to notch out the crack on both sides and use something like I suggested?
One that springs to mind is called Milliput. You'd get that from a modelling supply shop...
