brake line fittings

keywestjack

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Apr 24, 2008
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I am replacing the brake lines and fuel lines on my 77. I am using stainless steel lines from Classic Tube. On my last one (also a 77), I did not put any anti seize on the fittings. (that car is no longer my problem) Do you recommend that I use some sort of anti seize on the line fittings. If not do you recommend anything at all to keep the threads from galling, or will they. Thanks for the input, Jack
 
It never hurts to put a little on the flare nuts. Another thing you might want to look into is NEW brass connectors/splitters. Stainless lines can be a bitch to get to seal properly on used brass blocks..
 
I agree with that too.
Just be carefull not to get it in the id.
It helps a lot down the road for removal to have it between the flare and the flare nut. Helps it torque down much better too. Works great on the fuel lines at the carb too.
Pic shows copper, but a good EP diff lube or motorcycle chain lube is good too.

FlareCopper.jpg


If the stainless you have is double flared it helps to lube and torque them down on an old female first, sort of helps to form and seat the flare a little better than just the original flaring job.
Another little tip, put lots of teflon tape on just the threads of the bleeders so they won't suck air, depending on your bleeding method.
 
DOT requires brake lines to be double flare and being flares, they really shouldn't need any type of sealant for proper mating. I would call or email Classic Tube to find out what they recommend as far anti-seize on the threads. I've used their fuel lines, but not the brake lines. They have always been very helpful when I've called them.
 
I went to their web site ( www.classictube.com ) and found this:

"4. Do stainless steel fittings seize?
Stainless steel fittings will not rust. Which means that if you need to remove them they are not rusted to the brake line and come off as easily as they went on.

5. Do you need to use anti-seize or teflon tape?
Anti-seize and Teflon tape are not needed when installing your lines. The seat on the end of the tube is what seals against the brass seat in your cylinder or block. Make sure the seat is the correct size and has not been damaged."


Although I will not use teflon tape or anything an the seat end of the fitting I still may use a very small amount of anti seize on the threads.
 
4 pure gold and platinum are the only metals that don't corrode.
5 Has nothing to do with sealing

Stainless is exceptionally prone to galling, often preventing proper torque.
I use copper antiseize on just about everything unless it's an internal or or a sealer is called for.
Use your best judgement.


This problem is called "thread galling." According to the Industrial Fastener Institute's 6th Edition Standards Book (page B-28),

Thread galling seems to be the most prevalent with fasteners made of stainless steel, aluminum, titanium, and other alloys which self-generate an oxide surface film for corrosion protection. During fastener tightening, as pressure builds between the contacting and sliding thread surfaces, protective oxides are broken, possibly wiped off, and interface metal high points shear or lock together. This cumulative clogging-shearing-locking action causes increasing adhesion. In the extreme, galling leads to seizing - the actual freezing together of the threads. If tightening is continued, the fastener can be twisted off or its threads ripped out.

Carpenter Technologies, the fastener industry's largest supplier of stainless steel raw material, refers to this type of galling in their technical guide as "cold welding." Anyone who has seen a bolt and nut with this problem understands the graphic nature of this description.
 
Galling is dependant on the combination of metals working together. Stainless on stainless is a combination succeptable to galling, but stainless in a brass fitting will not gall. Stainless and cast iron is usually no problem but I'd use some antiseize.
 

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