Broke something yesterday.

73 Mike

73 Mike

I'll drive it someday
Joined
Mar 30, 2008
Messages
713
Location
Boston, MA
Bill Murray said it best:" Mother Puss Bucket."

Out heating the motor up yesterday to adjust the valve lash on the right bank (solid roller lifters), I stopped at a sign and heard a mechanical bang and the engine stalled. Started right up again but has a very noticeable mechanical tick.

Drove home without any incident (only about a minute) and checked for an out of adjustment rocker or another loosened polylock or stud. Nothing.

The sound appears to be coming from the rear of the engine. I'm going to start my diagnostic by pulling the distributor to make sure that the gear didn't go south and I'll drain the oil looking for clues.

I'm also going to disconnect the belts to make sure that it isn't a water pump, PS pump or alternator bearing. I'll also check the torque converter and flex plate bolts. I'll check the harmonic damper while I'm under there.

Any other easy suggestions before I start unbolting things?
 
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Make a "stethescope" out of a length of broomstick, place it against the suspect area on the engine and place your ear hard against the stick, you will be able to hear the internals of your engine. Just mind where the stick is in relation to the external moving parts so you don't get hurt.

PS - do this before you take it apart!
 
big2bird said:
BANG=Not good.:crap:
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Years ago my parents used to have a hobby farm and I'd do a lot of the tractor work. There is a very distinctive sound when something made of metal brakes under strain. This sound was very reminiscent of that memory.

And yes. Never good.
 
Quick update

I had some time tonight to crawl around under the car. Didn't see anything on the back end though the flexplate and torque converter are still just about where I think the noise is coming from.

Thought I found something as about 1/8 inch of paint is off the back circumference of the harmonic damper. I pulled off the pulley and the damper is fine.

Too bad too. That would have been an easy fix.
 
73 Mike said:
I had some time tonight to crawl around under the car. Didn't see anything on the back end though the flexplate and torque converter are still just about where I think the noise is coming from.
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I have seen the flexplate weights toss
The converter welded nuts break.
The bolts back out.
Even a nose cone snap off.
Gotta watch the dust cover/starter area. Ask John.:amused:
 
Another symptom?

After pulling off the pulleys to check the damper (which was fine) and wHile the pulleys and belts were off, I test started it to make certain that the noise wasn't related to one of those parts. No difference in sound

BUT

the oil pressure is pinned all the way high. I certainly didn't run it long enough to warm it up as the water pump wasn't connected, but I didn't expect to see this. Should I put a reliable pressure gauge on the oil fitting to check the actual pressure? Would this tell me anything?

Before anyone asks, I didn't notice this very high pressure on startup before.
 
Just drained 2 gallons of coolant from my crankcase

The only good news is that the oil that followed the coolant hadn't mixed. Best case is that the head gasket let go. Is there any reason to pull the heads or shold I just get the block out for tear down and diagnosis / repair?
 
73 Mike said:
The only good news is that the oil that followed the coolant hadn't mixed. Best case is that the head gasket let go. Is there any reason to pull the heads or shold I just get the block out for tear down and diagnosis / repair?
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Pull the engine. Sounds like your bang was hydraulic ramming. You have some big time damage inside.
 
big2bird said:
73 Mike said:
The only good news is that the oil that followed the coolant hadn't mixed. Best case is that the head gasket let go. Is there any reason to pull the heads or should I just get the block out for tear down and diagnosis / repair?
Click to expand...

Pull the engine. Sounds like your bang was hydraulic ramming. You have some big time damage inside.
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Kind of what I thought. I definately had a hydraulic lock when it quit while warming up. It stopped dead and won't turn over now.
 
73 Mike said:
big2bird said:
73 Mike said:
The only good news is that the oil that followed the coolant hadn't mixed. Best case is that the head gasket let go. Is there any reason to pull the heads or should I just get the block out for tear down and diagnosis / repair?
Click to expand...

Pull the engine. Sounds like your bang was hydraulic ramming. You have some big time damage inside.
Click to expand...

Kind of what I thought. I definately had a hydraulic lock when it quit while warming up. It stopped dead and won't turn over now.
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I'm sure Noonie and Gene have seen it more than I, but when they hydraulic, it can shatter a piston, or even bend a rod depending on the energy at the time.
 
I fail to understand how any engine can possible go into hydraulic lock when running.....600 rpm is 5 sparks/second.....per cylinder....ten trip up and down...

100 or 200 milliseconds depending on you counting cycles or strokes....

going to take a fire hose to lock a cylinder in that time frame....

I have had water in #8 due to overheat/head gasket, takes you pick chicken or egg.....and it was coming out the header gasket.....was a very obvious diagnosis....but engine ran 'ok'....

I vote for a converter bolt/similar in the bellhousing area....a converter bolt only needs back out a few turns and that sob will lock tight on the block...

I would think it should shatter something critical in the process....

and NO I have NOT seen it before...

:lol:
 
I agree a little more exploring may be worth it. With a breaker bar on the crank snout can you turn the engine forward or backward? If not broke something severly. I had a cylinder wall crack and the car kept running albeit with coolant coming out of the exhaust pipe. To hydraulic it usually has to sit to build up enough fluid as Mr Vette pointed out.

If you can rotate the engine back and forth aginst the "lock up" you may find something external or valve train related.

Hopefully...otherwise it is going to be expensive.
 
Well guys, I read Gene's post and thought to myself "easy enough to check." I pulled the plugs from the driver's side and number 3 had coolant on it. Unfortunately, the plug from number 5 has a broken insulator and the electrode is pulled straight and flattened on the end.

I don't think this is going to turn out well. :surrender:

I'm planning on pulling it on Saturday. Seems extremely unlikely at this point that I'm going to find something that's fixable while the engine is in the car.
 
mrvette said:
I fail to understand how any engine can possible go into hydraulic lock when running.....600 rpm is 5 sparks/second.....per cylinder....ten trip up and down...

100 or 200 milliseconds depending on you counting cycles or strokes....

going to take a fire hose to lock a cylinder in that time frame....

I have had water in #8 due to overheat/head gasket, takes you pick chicken or egg.....and it was coming out the header gasket.....was a very obvious diagnosis....but engine ran 'ok'....

I vote for a converter bolt/similar in the bellhousing area....a converter bolt only needs back out a few turns and that sob will lock tight on the block...

I would think it should shatter something critical in the process....

and NO I have NOT seen it before...

:lol:
Click to expand...

Don't you guys have Bayliners back there?
 
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