Buffing

[enkeivette]

So I was buffing some HOK clear on a surfboard. Started with 1500 grit to knock down the peel then went over it with 2000 to get rid of the 1500 scratches. Then I coated the buffer with polishing compound and got everything wet. Went over it with the buffer back and forth a few times and it doesn't appear to be fully getting out the 2000 grit scratches. I notice the areas where I didn't knock the peel down all the way, the recessed spots of the peel are more shiny than the spots that I knocked down.

It's very slight, and in the sun you can't tell that the board isn't as shiny. But in the shade, at the right angle, you can still tell where it has been sanded. Am I doing something wrong here?

 

[MYBAD79]

try rubbing compound and then polish. I have a few spots on my Mustang where I didn't sand enough with 2000 grit, looks like there are still a few 1500 grit scratches, compound and polish is not getting the scratches out...

I found Meguiars (spelling) "diamond cut" machine polish works really well... comes in a 1qt container, $18 at AdvanceAuto......

 

[vette]

So I was buffing some HOK clear on a surfboard. Started with 1500 grit to knock down the peel then went over it with 2000 to get rid of the 1500 scratches. Then I coated the buffer with polishing compound and got everything wet. Went over it with the buffer back and forth a few times and it doesn't appear to be fully getting out the 2000 grit scratches. I notice the areas where I didn't knock the peel down all the way, the recessed spots of the peel are more shiny than the spots that I knocked down.

It's very slight, and in the sun you can't tell that the board isn't as shiny. But in the shade, at the right angle, you can still tell where it has been sanded. Am I doing something wrong here?

What are you buffing with and what type of pad?

 

[enkeivette]

Turtle wax on a pad that looks like a bunch of cotton fingers.

 

[vette]

Turtle wax on a pad that looks like a bunch of cotton fingers.

Wax is not used to take scratches out. A wool pad and either rubbing or polish compound is what you need. I like to cut with a wool pad but polish with a foam. I will use a glazes after that if the paint is not cured. If its cured then I will use a wax. Here is a little more help.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2141516_buff-car-paint-rubbing-compound.html

Danny

 

[MYBAD79]

3M foam pad:

[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Perfect-Plus-Foam-Compounding-Comp/dp/B000CQ6I0I[/ame]

good stuff....

make sure you use a machine polish, not hand polish or wax...

 

[enkeivette]

Turtle wax on a pad that looks like a bunch of cotton fingers.

Wax is not used to take scratches out. A wool pad and either rubbing or polish compound is what you need. I like to cut with a wool pad but polish with a foam. I will use a glazes after that if the paint is not cured. If its cured then I will use a wax. Here is a little more help.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2141516_buff-car-paint-rubbing-compound.html

Danny

TurtleWax brand polishing compound. No wax in the compound. Sorry, that was confusing, typed it fast.

 

[010752]

A guy brought some of this stuff to me to try on his car that he wasn't having any luck with. The Turtlewax stuff is total junk.

Rubbing compounds usually have 2 or 3 or more grades of grits, then the swirl removers and polish compounds have finer grits, then the cleaners and waxes have no grits.
Just like paint, marble, granite, stainless, or glass You start course and go fine, and a general rule of thumb is for cutting higher speed and polishing progressively lower speed. The foam hook and loop pads come that way too. I've got an older buffer, but the speed is too high for foam pads and can only use it for wool pads. Makita or Milwaukee has great slower speed buffers for use with foam.

If you are using a real buffer like a Makita 7 1/2" variable, AND you wet sanded with 2000, you should be able to jump to the finest compound and then progress thru the polishes etc.
Generally, with slight orangepeel, 800 or 1000 wet and then thru the compounds works well. with foam pads limit yourself to 1500 rpm.

If you're using a lesser buffer than the comperable 7" Makita, like a 4" orbital polisher marketed as a buffer, then you can double or triple your time and effort.

The 3M stuff is about the best Perfect-it and Finesse-it and pads. The EPA made it way too pricey recently.
I have a few local car and aircraft Detailer Suppliers, and costs about 1/3 or less of what the 3m stuff is. Downside is, it takes a little longer with their products, about an hour for a car, but your talking 60 bucks instead of 300. Some of the bigger ones mix their own stuff.
Here is an example, can't find the wesite for the one I buy from.
http://www.expertdetailsupply.com/home.php

 

[MYBAD79]

good info :thumbs:

 

[Ozzy]

3M products are a bit higher priced than the stuff at Autozone or such, but they work.

The best results I have ever had on a black car was with the 3M system finishing with 06068 and their blue pad.

This picture is the left rear qp on my 87, which I painted with Omni ss.



Short 3M how to video:

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=66666UuZjcFSLXTtNXT_NxTyEVuQE1nNnVs6EVs6E666666--

 

[klkordzi]

If you still have orange peel, my suggestion is to do some wet sanding to remove the orange peel and then go back to buffing.