C3 Rack and Pinion set up

SRountree

SRountree

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 12, 2015
Messages
352
Location
Cincinnati - Middletown OH
I installed the R&P mod using parts as suggested in the forums but I don't have a lot of confidence that I did it correctly. I am not the sharpest tool in the shed but I am capable if I had the knowledge and direction to do so.

After I made my R&P, I have a few concerns.
1) I made the middle bracket a little short. (connecting the tie rods) the tie rod ends are almost all the way out and I don't feel there is enough meat in the rod to make the connection strong. I was planning on making another bracket longer to fix the issue but haven't had time yet.
2) when I turn the wheel from left to right, I don't have full movement. My original 3 point turns became a 4 point turn and sometimes it seems like the wheels don't turn as they should. Like the unit is jamming up or something. Turning is not consistency the same.
3) I have bump steer pretty bad. I'm sure this is a result of my brackets not completely set in the degree and or proper distance, not made right, etc.

Again, I never done anything like this and it's a bit over my head. I am thinking about buying the Steeroids kit to make it easier and I wont worry about it. I am not seeing any reviews where they are hiving issues with the conversion.

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corv...ion-conversion-kit-small-block-1967-1979.html

That being said. I spoke to Detroit Speed and they are about to come out with their own R&P version in March. Do you guys think Detroit Speed will be a better unit or does it really matter?

My tires are 175-40-18 and they have full clearance turning. I don't believe these are an issue with the steering but maybe I am wrong...

Last but not least, Is it easier to buy a bolt on and will mechanics be able to align the front end without telling me the car has to be stock based on the original spects etc? Any help will be appreciated!

ft tire.JPG
 
Steve, I am working on this right now (the tie rod length issue). I cam up with an optimum tie rod center to center length of 18 1/4". I'm not real comfortable with using the control rod sleeves that use a nut on the end of the sleeve so I decided to lengthen some stock sleeves. I think I need to lengthen them 3 or 4 inches.

The Grand Am rack has less total travel (lateral) than the Vette so you turning radius does suffer. Also you want the rack that has 154mm of travel (not 144mm).
 
I am fairly certain I posted some diagrams I crudely drew of my mounting bracket for the GAm rack.....on my install, the rack will take the tires into the frame....now it's true I have the same wheel center line and 3/4 inch per side more tire....and '89 vette wheels, 255/50/17 wheels, I had to build out the lower A arms rub/snub blocks to limit the radius....up north I noted my '72 had a much tighter radius than the '87 had....making a U turn into a gas station haunt of mine for some decades.....and so down here in Florida, the rack install was done...never an issue....

I may have to pull the files and scan again, as I certain the digital files are long since dumped, over the years....I did the conversion in winter 01-02.....
 
Speedway sells a lot of different threaded tubes. Lots of selection: material, length, $, etc. Easier to see/find in their paper catalog.

Also sell a tapered bolt so you can use rod ends (heim ).
 
I was looking at the spects on this R&P

1967-82 Corvette Power Rack & Pinion Cradle Kit - No Column
Part #: FR312PW - Price: $1793.14

Its pricy but the manufacturing states it has full factory turning radius. Do you know if anyone on here installed one yet? If so, do they like it?
 
That looks like a nice setup but lot's of money.

You could have a set of aluminum steering arms made for a fraction of that. Then you would have your full travel
 
I paid like 35 bux for a fresh rebuilt '89 Grand Am rack in a junkyard, car was rear ended, and engine was already pulled, made out like a bandit on THAT find.... prototyped and had a welder buddy make the supports, right and left, and there is no connection between them...which is useless anyway as the pass/right side is just a loop of rubber free to slide along the rack....the only one doing any lateral support is the driver side....I used the stock factory mounting U clamps....and a huge pile of factory univarsal steering input linkage....so I managed to get that for another 25 or so bux....80 bux for a machine shop to make the center adapter block for the stock tie rod ends, I cut and inserted a 9/16? steel rod into the stock tie rod collars/tube assy, and so the one on the pass side is ~21" center to center, and the other is ~19 inches long....yeh a bit of bump stear, but not so awful evil.....

:nuts:
 
I had a little time to finally work on the vette today and after 5 hours of grinding and the use of an air chisel I was able to remove the R/P brackets I installed last year. (Removed the entire DIY system).

I purchased the Flaming River system with and temporarily set the cradle system. The bracket lined up nicely with the original bolts.

So here's the tricky part. The cradle barley clears the oil pan but the R/P needs about 3/8 above the bracket. I believe I have a 7qt oil pan. 383 stroker... My hillbilly friend wants to dent the oil pan a little to make it fit but I think I can buy a stock oil pan. The stock one should be about 3/4" shorter. Does anyone have a stock oil pan on a 383? Any issues with clearance?

Suggestions to make this an easy fix?
 
'89 roller 4 bolt truck block 355 here, and I just hammered the pan a bit to get the rack clearance...maybe 3/4 inch worth, did it with engine in place even though it was out for the initial install, or I would have just lowered the rack...as it is for the last 16? years the rack is still higher than the lowest important parts.....I never got around to getting the tie rods being equal length....as for limited travel, was not an issue on my install, I had to limit the radius as above.....
 
Flaming river was not much help so I stopped working on my vette until tonight.

I bought a couple shims to raise the engine about 3/8", I mocked up the cradle with the rack and pinion to make sure I was ok on the clearance. So far so good, everything clears with about 1/4" to spare.

Hopefully I'll have time tomorrow to work on tightening everything up and installing the stearing linkage.
 
Got the FR R&P in and tighten up. Everything went in smooth. Have full turning radius and it's tight. I'm installing a serpentine drive system, electric fans, and I'll drive it to the shop to get an alignment done.

The FR instructions weren't very clear and I couldn't find anything on you tube that was up to date. With that being said, the steering is really smooth. It's an expensive system but hopefully it will be worth it.
 
Got the pan clearance figured out ? If your oil dipstick is on the passenger side then I have a stock style oil pan that I had on my 383 before I installed a 7qt pan, send a PM if you want it.
 
Hey I appreciate that but I ended up using a couple of shims on the motor mounts raising it enough for the clearance I needed. It worked out great. My dip stick is on the drivers side though.

If anyone wants to know about the Flaming River install on the C3, I took better photos so you can see how nice it is. It was expensive but worth it. I'll get the photos posted soon with more details. I really like the cradle system. I have yet to drive it... lol soon though...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Back
Top