C3 Steering column splines

[vette427sbc]

Im putting together a rack and was wondering what U-joint to get for the end of the column. The outside dia. of the shaft is 1" , and it seems the only joint for this is a 48 spline. Is this it? Also, are double D shafts measued by the flats or the overall dia.?

 

[mrvette]

When junkyard my rack system from 01-02 winter major rebuild project, the yard came up with the needed joints, not problem, but I had to mix/match them press/tap out the bearing cups like any other universal, and then tap them back in place, and stake with a tool just like the factory did....I mix/matched many a joint from the JYard....using primarily Lumina parts, as I recall....I know some minivan of some sort had the upper collar for the '78 vette TT column I have...but the rest of it is fairly easy.....I wound up with a rag joint in a DD intermediate shaft, not caring about the rag joint but that intermediate DD gave me the freedom to mark the exact functional length and have my welder buddy weld it....

I find the entire install a rather simple job...the only part that gave me troubles was finding a local machine shop that could make the CTO adapter block to mate the stock tie rod ends into the rack....I just figgered the stock shit style was tested over 50 billion cars and 200k miles each on the average, therefore should not cause troubles....besides there is the wheel end to consider.....

I cut stock collars in 1/2 and used 9/16 rod down the middle welded and a outer sleeve welded on the ends also....double safe solid as hell,
MY tie rods are unequal length, 21 on the pass side and 19 on the driver's....

in fact my effort to offset the rack to the drivers side to clear my existing headers at the time, was a total time waster...ain't NO way....so I bought another header style which in is fact fine for the CHASSIS, but gave me grief with burning plug boots in a most strange fashion....Jacobs fixed that....

such is the details of hotrodding.....if it's not one thing, it's another....but better than setting on my ass doing nuttin' or shooting dope or shit.....

:beer::1st::shocking:

 

[Kid Vette]

Yes, its a 1-48 shaft. Borgeson designation is 148. Double D shafts are designated by their OD. An 18mm DD shaft would measure .730 inch on the OD; .610 across the flats.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Yup, 1" 48 indeed.

Why do you want to use the DD shaft? I know it's a lot easier to use. Why not use weld on joints on a drilled shaft. i'm using that. It only has splines on the steering column side and the box side, this makes it easy to clock. The intermediate joint is welded on both sides.

 

[vette427sbc]

Yes, its a 1-48 shaft. Borgeson designation is 148. Double D shafts are designated by their OD. An 18mm DD shaft would measure .730 inch on the OD; .610 across the flats.

Great, thats perfect, thanks

Gene, I've been reading your posts on the GA rack. It does seem rather simple, at least so far. Ive got most of it mocked up, but still need to find the brackets to mount the rack to something. The only clearance problems I had were the steel lines that go across the top of the rack. I would like it tucked up as far as I can get it, so I'm going to re-rout those lines. But it does look like I will clear the motor mount, and still only need 2 U-joints. I've got a bunch of pics, but I'll just wait untill I'm finished and post them all at once.

 

[vette427sbc]

Yup, 1" 48 indeed.

Why do you want to use the DD shaft? I know it's a lot easier to use. Why not use weld on joints on a drilled shaft. i'm using that. It only has splines on the steering column side and the box side, this makes it easy to clock. The intermediate joint is welded on both sides.

I was going to weld the DD shaft anyway, Why would you have to clock the U-joints? Can they not be lined up with each other?
Also, What is a drilled shaft?
And for the people using a grand am rack, what U-joint are you using? it looks like a 5/8" DD but has a nipple type thing at the end. Do I just forget about the nipple and use a DD?

 

[Twin_Turbo]

if you want the steering wheel to point straight you have to clock one side and the steering column has a flat so you're stuck there. Depending on whether your box has a flat it's nice if you can clock the joints. If it has a groove all the way around for the locking bolt you can just weld them on and be done. I prefer the round shaft because it does not dig into a support bearing like the double d shaft will do if the support bearing oversize 3/4 heim) is turning when you tighten the nut (and with headers in place it can be a bitch to keep it from doing that).

 

[mrvette]

Yes, its a 1-48 shaft. Borgeson designation is 148. Double D shafts are designated by their OD. An 18mm DD shaft would measure .730 inch on the OD; .610 across the flats.

Great, thats perfect, thanks

Gene, I've been reading your posts on the GA rack. It does seem rather simple, at least so far. Ive got most of it mocked up, but still need to find the brackets to mount the rack to something. The only clearance problems I had were the steel lines that go across the top of the rack. I would like it tucked up as far as I can get it, so I'm going to re-rout those lines. But it does look like I will clear the motor mount, and still only need 2 U-joints. I've got a bunch of pics, but I'll just wait untill I'm finished and post them all at once.

Been so long since I just bent those lines down out of the way, I don't remember much, as I just DID it....done...nothing major.....now in that statement, there is the fact that MY install has the input shaft much more toward the vertical...call it ~45* off horizontal, that puts the input shaft rubbing the back lower section of the engine mount horn...I simply cut a crescent out of it with a hole saw and drill....enough to allow the linkage to not rub by a reasonable amount....

the brackets are just 'bent 1" by 1/8 inch thick walled sq tube fastened in the obvious fashion on the pass side to be level with the twist/torque bearing driver's side, where the GAm rack has the support so to weld a base and a bracket to make it laterally stiff enough...and to do that the bracket needs support a LO and as far forward as at all possible, and I happened to pick the outer forward bolt hole location for the power steering ram support....the 1x 1/8 inch steel bar is bent/welded at a crazy angle...but it works well enough for some years now....

I drive quick on the street, so I can't really say is it's enough for the road speed courses, or not....

I did not use a plate of any type on the CTO/tie rod adaptor...just a steel block real short....Bump stear was not a consideration...but it works well...

:beer: