electrolysis rust removal

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clutchdust

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I ran across this with a rifle I picked up a couple weeks ago but thought I would share as the technique could easily be used on some of those valuable parts you need to restore for your project car.
So without further ado, here you go.
Step 1) Here's one of many parts that I have have to derust. This is the bolt carrier off the 1951 Tula SKS I just bought a couple weeks ago. I got it super cheap because of the condition. The original thought was the rifle was not salvageable.
100_1706.jpg
Step 2) Get a non-conductive container, such as a plastic tub. The one I got for my purposes is one of those tubs that slides under your bed.
Step 3) Connect a copper wire to the part. As you can see, this part had no hole in which to tie the wire so I just used a hose clamp to secure it.
100_1707.jpg
Step 4) You need a iron or steel conductor. I had a chunk of rebar and just welded a bolt to it so I could get a good, secure connection. Then connect a copper wire to that.
***Notice that the positive from my battery charger is connected to my rebar and the negative is connected to the part I want to de-rust.
100_1709.jpg
Step 5) cover the entire part with a water/baking soda solution. Mix one tablespoon to each gallon of water. Stir solution together.
Here's the battery charger I'm using. But the original instructions say you can use a simple phone charger or other plug in DC transformer.
100_1710.jpg
Step 6) Plug the charger in and watch it work! One slight precaution is this process gives off hydrogen gas. It's not a lot but just make sure you ventilate your work area.
100_1711.jpg
Now when I first plugged it in, I was scared shitless the thing was going to go blow up. But it didn't.
Step 7) Just keep your eye on the part for an hour or two and it will look like this:
100_1713.jpg
O.k. Not exactly. This was after about 4 hours with other parts going through the process.
Step 8) When the part is done, remove it and clean it off with clean water, wipe down and oil to protect the finish.
Here's the finished bolt carrier after being cleaned with a brass bristle brush and Nevr-Dull.
100_1718.jpg
Here's the original link that covers a couple things I didn't. http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=62728
I tried it on the bolt carrier first just to make sure that if I got it wrong it wasn't on a finished product. I also have the bolt cover which was de-rusted. While there is still some obvious pitting, it's in far better shape than it started out.
I will update my photobucket page with the after pictures of the barrel in a day or two so you can compare the final finish. Just follow the links to my photobucket page.
Good luck with your stuff!
 
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Just hope it helps some guys. Like I said, I'm a rookie at this so anybody else that wants to attempt, please do some more research. Like the one thing I forgot to say, make sure your two wires or the bare metal touch or you'll blow up your charger.
 
natrium bicarbonaat. Ook wel zuiveringszout en ik geloof in bakpoeder voor het rijzen, vandaar dat het bij onze vrolijke vrienden baking soda heet.
 
Hey, I'm so happy with the way that turned out I just have to show off some more results.
Now keep in mind, this is a very good process for removing rust without having to remove good metal. In fact, you can remove a lot of rust without removing all the original finish. This rifle I picked up, I thought was totally trashed, as did the PO, so I got it cheap. Here's a before and after:
1821951r12-med.jpg

And this is after. Keep in mind the only thing I've done since I pulled it out was wipe off the black goo that the rust turns into, hit it with a brass bristle brush and wiped it with oil.
182bayo-after-med.jpg

Of course, I need to do some more final finish to get it back into showable condition, but as it is, it's usable.
I don't know if this will work for aluminum but if you're trying to bring back some rare, hard to find iron or steel parts, whether gun parts car parts or any other home or hobby parts, this is a very easy and effective way to get it done!
 
If I would have something like that lying around I would already be in jail by now.

Thanks TT !

This might be interesting to derust my bolts, screws,...
 
Thanks Imo, that is an interesting approach to derusting metal. Thanks for sharing it, but I have a hard time warming up to removing rust; whatever the method! The SKS sure looks alot better, though.
 
I tried it on a clutch housing with the plate, it was mostly surface rust.
Dunked it in a rubbermaid bucket and added some baking soda and pluged it.
Checked on it after about 1/2 hour the rust was coming off.
forgot about it for the night and next morning the thing was pretty damn clean.
I was impressed.
 
Also check out about Hydrogen embrittlemnt(sp?) as a result and heating material afterwards to remove.

Interesting stuff, but big no-no to use stainless steel.

Andy
 
I'm using a power source from an old cordless phone. 9v 450ma It seems to be doing a good job and it shouldn't be using near the power of my regular car charger. My car charger is a little noisy as this is silent. Who doesn't have a box of these little chargers laying around.:thumbs:
 
I've de-rusted quite a few parts for my 68 and 70 Corvette projects.
For parts like rear wheel spindle assemblies where I didn't want to destroy machine dimensions (bearing inserts), I used vinegar. It's active ingredient is acetic acid. Vinegar is about 5% acid and the acetic acid is very gentle. It removes rust. It takes a day or so. When you dunk your parts in vinegar, within a few minutes you can see little bubbles forming on the metal. The bubbles are hydrogen gas and you know the vinegar is working. The great thing about vinegar is that you can dunk you hands in it without worry.

I use cardboard boxes, tape several together, and then fiberglass line the inside of the boxes to make my acid soaking vats. It's expensive. I've spent pretty close to $100 for fiberglass and resin making a soaking vat.

For more aggressive de-rusting where accurate machine dimensions are not a worry(transmission crossmember, front first most crossmember), I use hydrochloric acid (muratic acid). Plumbing supply stores sell it. I usually dilute it enough so that i can put my hands in safely. It's dilute, but I can often feel a little sting, so I can quickly wash my hands off. It causes an active bubbling (foaming).

If you've got a cad plated part that's become ugly with age, just dunk it in hydrochloric acid and it'll immediately take off the cad plating.

I'll have to check with my plater, but I think hydrochloric acid takes off chrome, but it doesn't take off nickel. Maybe I've got it backward???

Anyhow, electrolysis is not always needed.
 
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Hey Guys!
Very cool approach. Wonder if you have an idea for internal rust?
A bolt (last one of course) is ABSOLUTELY STUCK on my front wheel holding the brake caliper on.
I have use so far:
1. Heat -- just got hot and smoked
2. Kroil Oil -- good stuff -- usually but no go
3. PB Blaster --- this has been the ticket in the past -- no show
4. Truning in -- wouldn't budge that way either,
5. PB Soaking --several days now -- still stuck
6. Heat around the bolt, frezze-on the bolt -- still stuck

Now, I'm just about out of ideas. Was wondering if maybe electrocuting the sumbuitch might shock it into submission. Gotta come up with someting before the head is totally rounded off (yes using 6 sided socket.)

Maybe drill a hole in the center and try and collapse the bolt? I get the idea maybe a twist out would twist off from how stuck it seams.

HELP!

Cheers - Jim
 
phantomjock said:
Hey Guys!
Very cool approach. Wonder if you have an idea for internal rust?
A bolt (last one of course) is ABSOLUTELY STUCK on my front wheel holding the brake caliper on.
I have use so far:
1. Heat -- just got hot and smoked
2. Kroil Oil -- good stuff -- usually but no go
3. PB Blaster --- this has been the ticket in the past -- no show
4. Truning in -- wouldn't budge that way either,
5. PB Soaking --several days now -- still stuck
6. Heat around the bolt, frezze-on the bolt -- still stuck

Now, I'm just about out of ideas. Was wondering if maybe electrocuting the sumbuitch might shock it into submission. Gotta come up with someting before the head is totally rounded off (yes using 6 sided socket.)

Maybe drill a hole in the center and try and collapse the bolt? I get the idea maybe a twist out would twist off from how stuck it seams.

HELP!

Cheers - Jim
Click to expand...

Heat the caliper where the bolt goes into it not the bolt.
Use an impact wrench.
Usually on the caliper side there is a small hole where the end of the bolt comes through,maybe spraying PB in the hole will help.
 
Have you tried an impact wrench. I've had suspension component bolts that didn't want to turn with a straight bar wrench. When I used the impact wrench, they spun right out.

Another good aspect of impact wrenches are that I believe they are generally less prone to rounding off the bolt head. I think the jarring impacts are the key reason these wrenches can be so effective loosing bolts.

......and a possible downer. It is possible for the impact wrench to snap the head of the bolt off.
 
I have had good luck using vinegar myself...its great on pitted, but otherwise good sheetmetal, and for rusty tools. I'll have to try the electroysis method sometime, thanks for sharing!
 
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