Engine re-ring??? Not total rebuild

[gr8vet]

Hey guys.

Just looking to revitalize the old tired 82 block. Looking to spend the absolute least amount of $ as possible. I am replacing heads (gifted), and wanted to get thoughts on just putting in new rings. Will be putting this engine into a rat rod in the near future. The old engine ran great, loosing oil through valve guides only.

THanks
tt

 

[big2bird]

Hey guys.

Just looking to revitalize the old tired 82 block. Looking to spend the absolute least amount of $ as possible. I am replacing heads (gifted), and wanted to get thoughts on just putting in new rings. Will be putting this engine into a rat rod in the near future. The old engine ran great, loosing oil through valve guides only.

THanks
tt

As long as you hone it first, no harm, no foul.

 

[Twin_Turbo]

use one of those bubble hones, the result is vastly superior to that of a "glaze breaker" hone. After that, when setting ring gap, do it in the lower portion of the bore where the rings are at bdc, not the top.

 

[MYBAD79]

If the engine ran good and the bore surfaces look good then why bother replacing the rings?

 

[Twin_Turbo]

Well, if you do the bearings anyway why not just do the rings too if the bore is straight, not tapered...no thrust ridge on top. I'd do the rings too if I was tearing it down.

The only potential issue is that the rods will need resizing, money is then better spent on some new rods. Another issue is that on those X rods for reasons unknown to me you'll sometimes find .005" oversize bearings stock from GM. Why they did this from the factory, I have no idea. But I have never seen those sizes available. The problem then is, you can't get those so you'll have to buy 2 packs of bearing shells and use a thick one on one side and a thin one on the other. Putting the thick one on the bottom puts the piston a wee bit higher in the bore and reduces the quench height a little, vice versa for the other way around. So, if you do change the rod bearings, check the markings on the back.

 

[gr8vet]

Hey guys, thanks for the input. I had always heard if ya replace the heads on this older engine that the rings would go next? That is the only reason I am even going down that path. Otherwise the engine did well through the HotROd Power Tour last year, runs strong, no smoke, except fouling #2 and #3 plug, using about a 1/2 qt. of oil every 600 miles or so. Appears to be the valve guides that are causing the fouling problem. So, yes, using a bit of oil but no big deal.

 

[big2bird]

If the engine ran good and the bore surfaces look good then why bother replacing the rings?

IF you tear it down at all, it's a must. They never reseat if reinstalled.

 

[MYBAD79]

If the engine ran good and the bore surfaces look good then why bother replacing the rings?

IF you tear it down at all, it's a must. They never reseat if reinstalled.

That's IF you remove the pistons...... I'm just saying if the engine ran fine (and it sounds like it did) then check the bearings, check the bores and if it's all ok then leave it alone....

 

[010752]

If you use a ridge reamer very carefully, and a ball hone to deglaze with some cast rings, good heads with new seals and just replace the original bearings you should be able to get a least 30,000 good miles out of it easily.

Have done a few like this over the years, but it's hard to not go further.