Exhaust Install

Stpman

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2008
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376
Location
Niagara Region
Finally get time to get back at the Vette and take a serious run at gtting it back togther to enjoy. Today I worked on the drivers side exhaust from the collector back through the trans crossmember.
What do you guys think does this look right?

View from the top
Drivers%20Top.JPG


From the side
Drivers%20side.JPG
 
Looking good, are you going to fab it completely w/ the body off? I'd be worries that you might run into clearance issues. To the X member is as far as I would go and do the rest while the body is on there.
 
Looking good, are you going to fab it completely w/ the body off? I'd be worries that you might run into clearance issues. To the X member is as far as I would go and do the rest while the body is on there.

The plan was to fab it all and use a section of floor pan (front of the doors back to the bumper) from a 74 I parted out. I have band clamps for behind the crossmember and I have to check clearances between the "X" and the parking brake cable.

I was wondering about the pipe running down away from the collector the way it does.
 
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The exhaust is awfully close to the drivers side floor. It will probably be fine, but I would have done it with the body on. Then again, it's not so easy without a lift.
 
Looking good, are you going to fab it completely w/ the body off? I'd be worries that you might run into clearance issues. To the X member is as far as I would go and do the rest while the body is on there.

The plan was to fab it all and use a section of floor pan (front of the doors back to the bumper) from a 74 I parted out. I have band clamps for behind the crossmember and I have to check clearances between the "X" and the parking brake cable.

I was wondering about the pipe running down away from the collector the way it does.

Looks good.
I use the band clamps behind the xmember too. Makes it super easy to drop the exhaust for access.
The butyl goo that comes with them new works great, but makes a hell of a mess and doesn't seal leaks the next time. I ended up wrapping the pipe a bit first with fiberglass mat and then the clamps, no leaks and grips well.
 
I got pissed off over all the exhausting/cross support problems on my OEM Muncie '72.....

so with the 700 conversion, I cut the cross member, and fashioned a method of install with two bolts facing fore/aft....

but with several R&R's over the years I got good and pissed this last time around...and had the OEM cross member cut out on the bottom of the pipe loops, and nice/wide on the frame bottom ends...so it essentially is a wide V upside down...rounded on top per stock....
then to build a bridge/truss type lattice in the top of it for strength...

and run the exhaust nice and clean under the entire support....

trick is...I have a welder buddy, second is....it has to be done at HIS house....he not moving that machine, and I don't blame him....

and without his help, NONE of these extensive steel projects would be possible...rack, crossmember, front grill, induction, and a few others...

:harhar::thankyou:
 
Look'in good, I have to say it's so much easier placing tack welds from uptop rather then underneath at about 18" off the floor. Especially with a welding helmet to work around.
 

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